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Old 02-16-2014, 09:35 AM   #103
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Originally Posted by SPOOKYGUNNER View Post
I HAVE NERVE DAMAGE IN BOTH HANDS AND IT IS EASIER FOR ME TO TYPE THIS WAY. I'M NOT SHOUTING AT ANYONE.
Just curious about above statement. Youre buttons press differently so that its easier on your fingers and nerves by having the caps lock button on? IM TRYING IT NOW BUT I DONT FEEL THE DIFFERENCE.
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Old 02-16-2014, 01:07 PM   #104
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Just curious about above statement. Youre buttons press differently so that its easier on your fingers and nerves by having the caps lock button on? IM TRYING IT NOW BUT I DONT FEEL THE DIFFERENCE.
It probably has more to do with reaching the shift key to type caps than it does leaving them on all the time.
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Old 02-16-2014, 04:04 PM   #105
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im going to post this in here and hope all of you who have been ranting about the 17-18 inch tire size thing read it..

there is a lot more to a tire than sidewall.. if you actually look at the 17s guys go with, the sidewall is not much greater than the stock size 305 35 20.. you are going strictly by the aspect ratio but not realizing the aspect ratio does not need to be as high when the width goes up...

the CONTACT PATCH of the 17 is tiny compared to the stock size 305 35 20.. the diameter of the 17 kills contact patch.. iv done a huge amount of testing with this....

very few cars on here make more power than mine.. if you have a auto, there is ZERO reason to go to a 17 inch wheel tire combo. if you cant get the 305 to work, then you are making huge power and need to go to the 15 inch setup (im getting ready to do this). but the cars are capable of going mid 1.4s on the M/T 305 35 20..

for a stick guy who shocks the tires hard, you are still going to kill the 17 inch tire.. the soft sidewall of the slick might help the initial hit but from a roll they will haze...

the M/T is a very driveable tire.. my wife daily drives on a set on her caddy... with her driving and the car getting raced at the track 2-3 times a year they are usable on the street (rain, ect) for about 10,000 miles, then they get shady in big rain..

I want to see more of you going fast, so I am willing to offer any knowledge I have gotten from all the abuse I have put my car through.... just try the M/Ts, you will prob never buy another tire for this car.
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Old 02-16-2014, 06:47 PM   #106
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im going to post this in here and hope all of you who have been ranting about the 17-18 inch tire size thing read it..

there is a lot more to a tire than sidewall.. if you actually look at the 17s guys go with, the sidewall is not much greater than the stock size 305 35 20.. you are going strictly by the aspect ratio but not realizing the aspect ratio does not need to be as high when the width goes up...

the CONTACT PATCH of the 17 is tiny compared to the stock size 305 35 20.. the diameter of the 17 kills contact patch.. iv done a huge amount of testing with this....

very few cars on here make more power than mine.. if you have a auto, there is ZERO reason to go to a 17 inch wheel tire combo. if you cant get the 305 to work, then you are making huge power and need to go to the 15 inch setup (im getting ready to do this). but the cars are capable of going mid 1.4s on the M/T 305 35 20..

for a stick guy who shocks the tires hard, you are still going to kill the 17 inch tire.. the soft sidewall of the slick might help the initial hit but from a roll they will haze...

the M/T is a very driveable tire.. my wife daily drives on a set on her caddy... with her driving and the car getting raced at the track 2-3 times a year they are usable on the street (rain, ect) for about 10,000 miles, then they get shady in big rain..

I want to see more of you going fast, so I am willing to offer any knowledge I have gotten from all the abuse I have put my car through.... just try the M/Ts, you will prob never buy another tire for this car.
I also like your comments about a 20" M/T. I've been kicking wheels around for a while, but one thing I do know is I'll be running M/T either 18 or 20. Starting to think I'll just throw the 20's on and go that route.
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Old 02-16-2014, 08:32 PM   #107
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maybe I'm missing something but the diameter of the wheel with everything else being equal shouldn't change the contact patch. The diameter of the tire or circumference of the tire would be the biggest change in contact patch. The width of the tire changes the contact patch only minimally. Air pressure and the weight placed on the tire/wheel combo effects the contact patch as well. http://www.roadandtrack.com/motorhea...t-tire-patches
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Old 02-17-2014, 05:15 PM   #108
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It probably has more to do with reaching the shift key to type caps than it does leaving them on all the time.

THANKS DEKE. THAT IS EXACTLY THE REASON.
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Old 02-17-2014, 05:26 PM   #109
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GEARS

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swap your A6 ring and pinion for a M6 one and you got 3.73, then with tire mods you can go beyond 4.10

GOOD IDEA I WAS TRYING TO GET BETTER GEARING CHEAPLY RATHER THAN CHANGING GEAR SETS. THANKS
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Old 03-05-2014, 03:00 PM   #110
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just try the M/Ts, you will prob never buy another tire for this car
Would they work for a car that might see the twisty track as well, or should I switch out to another tire for a track day?
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Old 03-05-2014, 04:03 PM   #111
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Would they work for a car that might see the twisty track as well, or should I switch out to another tire for a track day?
The MT's are not for a road racing...
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Old 03-07-2014, 11:57 PM   #112
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Tring out my new 305 35 20 mt's next weekened, im excited to see what i can run with my mods and 100 shot!
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Old 03-11-2014, 11:06 PM   #113
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I know its been discussed in many different ways on this thread alone but I still need a little advise. My car makes 770 rwhp. I currently have the M/T 20s. I have been using them for street driving as the stock tires are useless under 50 degrees as many have already said. I went to our local drag strip a couple of weeks ago & couldn't manage a 60' better than 2.1. I tried tire pressure from 25 psi to 11 psi. As my car is a manual I know that I certainly have room to improve my launch technique but when it jumps toward the wall on the 1rst to 2nd shift it gets a little scary. I have been looking at 17-18 options for a drag radial because I still want to drive it to the track. I might be missing something but I cant seem to find a 17' tire taller than 26.?" in a hoosier or M/T. M&H has one that is 28.?. Would I be better off with 17" wheel 26" tall tires or 18" wheel 28" tall tire. It seems to me that I would have more side wall & a bigger footprint w/ the 18 inch option. Any help is appreciated.
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Old 03-17-2014, 09:38 PM   #114
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Originally Posted by jlbabb View Post
I know its been discussed in many different ways on this thread alone but I still need a little advise. My car makes 770 rwhp. I currently have the M/T 20s. I have been using them for street driving as the stock tires are useless under 50 degrees as many have already said. I went to our local drag strip a couple of weeks ago & couldn't manage a 60' better than 2.1. I tried tire pressure from 25 psi to 11 psi. As my car is a manual I know that I certainly have room to improve my launch technique but when it jumps toward the wall on the 1rst to 2nd shift it gets a little scary. I have been looking at 17-18 options for a drag radial because I still want to drive it to the track. I might be missing something but I cant seem to find a 17' tire taller than 26.?" in a hoosier or M/T. M&H has one that is 28.?. Would I be better off with 17" wheel 26" tall tires or 18" wheel 28" tall tire. It seems to me that I would have more side wall & a bigger footprint w/ the 18 inch option. Any help is appreciated.
the 325/45-17 m&h drag radial is 28" tall and is super sticky. http://www.mandhtires.com/M-H-Drag-R...7#.UyeiqCe9KSM

I have those tires on Bogart 17x10" and they work well. Best 60' is a 1.53.
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Old 03-17-2014, 09:40 PM   #115
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check this out: http://www.camaro5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=347082
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Old 03-17-2014, 10:31 PM   #116
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Originally Posted by jlbabb View Post
I know its been discussed in many different ways on this thread alone but I still need a little advise. My car makes 770 rwhp. I currently have the M/T 20s. I have been using them for street driving as the stock tires are useless under 50 degrees as many have already said. I went to our local drag strip a couple of weeks ago & couldn't manage a 60' better than 2.1. I tried tire pressure from 25 psi to 11 psi. As my car is a manual I know that I certainly have room to improve my launch technique but when it jumps toward the wall on the 1rst to 2nd shift it gets a little scary. I have been looking at 17-18 options for a drag radial because I still want to drive it to the track. I might be missing something but I cant seem to find a 17' tire taller than 26.?" in a hoosier or M/T. M&H has one that is 28.?. Would I be better off with 17" wheel 26" tall tires or 18" wheel 28" tall tire. It seems to me that I would have more side wall & a bigger footprint w/ the 18 inch option. Any help is appreciated.
Run a c5 z06 front rims with 305/35R18 mickey thompson drag radial
,1.54 60ft with Whipple 630wHP
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Old 03-19-2014, 09:06 PM   #117
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Thanks for the info guys & thanks for the link to the group buy. I think om gonna give them a call.
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Old 03-27-2014, 09:52 PM   #118
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the reason the 20 inch mickey works better is because its TALLER than the 17 inch tire by a lot.. ts almost 30 inches tall... the 17 is 28 and its actually not even 28...
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Old 04-09-2014, 10:13 PM   #119
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17" tire set-up in the works!! I have the MT 305 20's now. Just couldn't resist a 17" set-up. Waiting on the 17" Weld RT-S71's in Black.. Tires arrived today. Here are a few pics.
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