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Old 04-28-2014, 06:10 AM   #1
usafboy

 
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Sway bar support question

So Friday I decided to make sure everything in my rear suspension was tightened down, was hand tightening a bolt on the driver side sway bar support, felt it getting easier to tighten, then SNAP!!! broke the bolt head off, two days later, two trips to Home Depot and a trip to borrow a corded drill I finally got the bolt out.

My question is I bought some bolts from Home Depot and one of the guys there was saying that those bolts aren't obviously made for cars suspension and aren't up to spec. Will I have any issues or should I order some OEM bolts? I mean these bolts seem pretty tough but what do ik.
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Old 04-28-2014, 06:46 AM   #2
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Originally Posted by usafboy View Post
So Friday I decided to make sure everything in my rear suspension was tightened down, was hand tightening a bolt on the driver side sway bar support, felt it getting easier to tighten, then SNAP!!! broke the bolt head off, two days later, two trips to Home Depot and a trip to borrow a corded drill I finally got the bolt out.

My question is I bought some bolts from Home Depot and one of the guys there was saying that those bolts aren't obviously made for cars suspension and aren't up to spec. Will I have any issues or should I order some OEM bolts? I mean these bolts seem pretty tough but what do ik.

Order the correct bolts.....most bolts at HD are Grade 2 or 8.8. There might be some Grade 5, but if you don't know what you have you need to order the correct ones

Explanation of bolt grades.


http://www.boltdepot.com/fastener-in...ade-chart.aspx
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Old 04-28-2014, 11:41 AM   #3
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I do know the bolts that I bought have the three lines on the head, bcus I was tryin to use the three letter code on the OEM bolts to try and find a replacement. The stock bolts are 13mm but all they had were 5/16", it worked but in the long run I don't want to run into issues.
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Old 04-28-2014, 01:08 PM   #4
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Not sure how you got the standard bolt in there without destroying the threads but I would use the correct bolt. Use an OEM replacement unless you can get an (Metric)ARP replacement.

...and stop breaking bolts by hand Hercules
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Old 04-28-2014, 01:43 PM   #5
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Originally Posted by jeremywes View Post
Not sure how you got the standard bolt in there without destroying the threads but I would use the correct bolt. Use an OEM replacement unless you can get an (Metric)ARP replacement.

...and stop breaking bolts by hand Hercules
The problem has nothing to do with the thread because there are only a couple different standardized threads available. You can get plastic bolts that would screw in just fine. This is entirely a bolt material issue as mentioned above and should be addressed with OEM or better bolts.
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Old 04-28-2014, 03:33 PM   #6
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Originally Posted by jeremywes View Post
Not sure how you got the standard bolt in there without destroying the threads but I would use the correct bolt. Use an OEM replacement unless you can get an (Metric)ARP replacement.

...and stop breaking bolts by hand Hercules
Oh I'm sure the threads are probably ruined now after putting the standard bolt in, I'll test it out tonight and see if it's possible to get an OEM bolt to go in after using the replacement bolt. If not I might be stuck with the standard bolt but might just have to find a suitable one made for suspension.
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Rhino79 Dyno tuned...405 HP/399 TQ
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Old 04-28-2014, 03:54 PM   #7
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I would suggest a Grade 8 metric bolt (if you haven't destroyed the threads already)!!!
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Old 04-29-2014, 08:10 AM   #8
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Originally Posted by usafboy View Post
Oh I'm sure the threads are probably ruined now after putting the standard bolt in, I'll test it out tonight and see if it's possible to get an OEM bolt to go in after using the replacement bolt. If not I might be stuck with the standard bolt but might just have to find a suitable one made for suspension.
Might be a good idea to run a tap through it once you remove the bolt. The other alternative since the backing nut is welded to the sub frame would be to drill a slightly larger hole and tap new threads. Good luck... and don't worry we all have a story like that.
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Old 04-29-2014, 10:22 AM   #9
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I would suggest a Grade 8 metric bolt (if you haven't destroyed the threads already)!!!
So let me ask this, if looking at the chart posted in an earlier post, the OEM bolt was a metric 8.8 bolt, the standard replacement bolt I used is a standard grade 5 bolt with the three lines on the head.

Is the replacement bolt I got better or worse? I know the threads and size are slightly different but it worked, or at least I made it work by using the standard bolt.
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Mods...so far: resonator/muffler delete, tinted everything, '13 shift knob/boot, bowtie delete, PFADT sway bars, CAI intake, Hurst short shifter, JBA cat deletes, BMR trailing arms/outer bushings/steering rack bushing, Bo White ported TB.
Rhino79 Dyno tuned...405 HP/399 TQ
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Old 04-29-2014, 10:49 AM   #10
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Originally Posted by usafboy View Post
So let me ask this, if looking at the chart posted in an earlier post, the OEM bolt was a metric 8.8 bolt, the standard replacement bolt I used is a standard grade 5 bolt with the three lines on the head.

Is the replacement bolt I got better or worse? I know the threads and size are slightly different but it worked, or at least I made it work by using the standard bolt.
The bolts are roughly equivalent in tensile strength. A metric 8.8 bolt in that size has a minimum tensile strength of 116,000 PSI, and a grade 5 in that size has a minimum tensile strength of 120,000 PSI.

A "grade 8" version of a metric bolt would be the 10.8 bolt, where a 10.9 bolt has a minimum tensile strength of 150,800 PSI and a grade 8 standard bolt would be rated at a minimum tensile strength of 150,000 PSI.

The threads and diameter of what you used are close, that's why the bolt went in, but you should run the correct metric tap through the hole and install the correct bolt if there are enough threads left. If not, go up to the next size and drill and tap again.
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