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Old 05-14-2014, 10:33 AM   #15
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Originally Posted by JDP Tyler View Post
It will fit, we have done it in the past. I would still rather have a couple extra bends in the bar than have to drill out the holes and mess up the powdercoat and have potential rust issues.

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Thanks for the confirmation that the bar will fit either way. I suppose whichever direction you would prefer will work.
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Old 05-14-2014, 01:35 PM   #16
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Alright, will check if I have 10mm or 12mm as soon as possible. Should be able to check when I get home this afternoon no problem (as long as it stops pouring...). My guess is that if early 2012's have 10mm mine will have 10mm, there are other things on my car that seem to indicate some 2011-ness like the existing threaded holes for the OEM strut tower brace and the fact that my fog lights have the old style bulbs (according to CamaroDIY). Just a hunch however. Thanks again for all the help and it's a relief to hear that I don't need the sway bar reinforcement brackets, not that they are expensive or tricky to install, it's just nice to know they are not at-risk.
The strut bar thread holes are present on mid 2011 and later, but if you have the older style P13w DRL bulbs, I'd bet you have 10mm endlink studs.

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Originally Posted by BMR Sales View Post
Thanks for the confirmation that the bar will fit either way. I suppose whichever direction you would prefer will work.
No problem!

Best regards,

Tyler
888-308-6007
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Old 05-14-2014, 06:29 PM   #17
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I would pay attention to what JDP suggests. The fact that they actually race their car helps in knowing what works and what doesn't.
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Old 05-15-2014, 02:10 AM   #18
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edit I have 10mm end links
when I put my front BK016 bar in I didnt have to drill anything had 18mm nuts on the end links and I got the stock bar out on jack stands pretty easily without lifting the motor. getting the new bar in took a while. Had to bend the ps line a little by hand and then I got the bar caught on the pass side rear stud for the sway bar bushing. After a while i got pissed and just smacked the bar with a rubber mallet from under it on the pass side. It popped off the stud and fell in.
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Old 05-15-2014, 10:25 AM   #19
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when I put my front BK016 bar in I didnt have to drill anything had 18mm nuts on the end links and I got the stock bar out on jack stands pretty easily without lifting the motor. getting the new bar in took a while. Had to bend the ps line a little by hand and then I got the bar caught on the pass side rear stud for the sway bar bushing. After a while i got pissed and just smacked the bar with a rubber mallet from under it on the pass side. It popped off the stud and fell in.
Hahahaha, now this is my style of "install". I see in your sig that you have the BMR upper control arm bushings/mounts. That is the very next thing I'm installing, can you tell me how that went? I've read their instructions and it recommends lots of stuff that seems optional to me, wanted to check. Thanks
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Old 05-15-2014, 02:11 PM   #20
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i did everything at the same time so it was easy. i lowered the unattached cradle down as far as i wanted. I didnt remove the arm from the center bolt as i didnt see the need. If your doing that id do cradle bushings too if you havent already. they make a big difference. do the heat method to take the cradle bushings out
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Old 05-15-2014, 04:10 PM   #21
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Hahahaha, now this is my style of "install". I see in your sig that you have the BMR upper control arm bushings/mounts. That is the very next thing I'm installing, can you tell me how that went? I've read their instructions and it recommends lots of stuff that seems optional to me, wanted to check. Thanks
Not sure if you have the BK017 or BK039 Upper Control Arm Bushings, but either way, you need to remove the saddle clamp across the top of the cradle that contains the bushing. Two bolts on the top, and one bolt through the bushing and into the rear upper control arm. It is possible to do this without lowering the cradle at all. I've done it, it's not exactly easy, and takes some creative use of hand tools, but it is possible. Lowering the cradle down at least a couple inches will make this task much easier and give you some room to work with. This is why it's a good idea to do the cradle bushings or inserts at the same time.....you've already got the cradle down. If you have the BK017 bushings, you will need to press the factory bushing out of that saddle clamp (you will need a hydraulic press to do this), and then simply push the new bushing in place. If you have the BK039, you can bolt the whole new assembly right in where the old saddle clamp was.....much easier!!!
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Old 05-16-2014, 12:13 AM   #22
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i have the BK039. And the BK039 kit is like a rolex compared to the timex thats on there. And if you have the hydraulic press might as well do the radius and front lower control arms too Id recommend doing the derlin cradle bushings. my car is no louder than before and I have almost a full BMR suspension. Love it.
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Old 05-16-2014, 10:18 AM   #23
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Yeah good advice guys. I will definitely be ordering BK039 and trying to install it without lowering the cradle again. I have some used Pedders inserts in the cradle now and while it made a huge improvement I'm sure they are still deflecting considerably (they were VERY soft/flexible). I am hesitant to do the full cradle bushings as I'm not sure how to get the stock ones out (I know someone on the form does it with the weight of the car etc... but it just seems tricky w/o legit tools). Next year when I have more hp and bump to the next NASA-X class I'll have more than enough points to play with, I'll probably do something similar to the Hotchkis brace that really locks down the rear subframe, especially with the brace and the inserts. That brace will be easy to remove and sell if I ever get rid of the car too, you're never getting your money back for those solid cradle bushings :(
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