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Old 05-05-2014, 07:28 PM   #15
Synner


 
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Thats pad or fluid failure, not the lines. Lines would be a bit more travel to get the same degree of braking while feeling a tad soft.
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Old 05-14-2014, 11:20 AM   #16
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You are probably using a good enough fluid for now, but you should bleed it before every track day and flush it once a year. As for pads...I didn't have problems with HP+ As my first track pad, but that's for you to decide. I would definitely upgrade to stainless steel brake lines. It improves the feel, and when they really heat up, the rubber ones can really expand. Unless you are way way faster than me, I would say your brake issues were from not bleeding or flushing your old fluid. You can always step up to the old standard or castrol SRF at twice the price.
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Old 05-14-2014, 12:28 PM   #17
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http://www.camaro5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=348705

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Old 05-14-2014, 12:59 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jamesc1123 View Post
You are probably using a good enough fluid for now, but you should bleed it before every track day and flush it once a year. As for pads...I didn't have problems with HP+ As my first track pad, but that's for you to decide. I would definitely upgrade to stainless steel brake lines. It improves the feel, and when they really heat up, the rubber ones can really expand. Unless you are way way faster than me, I would say your brake issues were from not bleeding or flushing your old fluid. You can always step up to the old standard or castrol SRF at twice the price.
Yea, next track day I'll have fresh DOT4 Motul fluid and I'll probably get titanium shims for the front pads for a little more heat shielding.

I didn't detect any brake fade in the HP+ pads at all. It just lost all pressure right there at the end. It was my first day on a dry track, so I don't think I was faster than anyone here I'm holding off on the steel lines for now. Well, I'm holding off on just about all upgrades for now, other than a Driver Skill Upgrade. Plus, maintenance alone is expensive enough.
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Old 05-14-2014, 02:36 PM   #19
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The pedal went to the floor, with almost no pressure. I had plenty of bite on the turn less than 10 seconds before. I went through turn 10, brakes were fine then the checkered flag came out so I went to back off a bit for the cooldown lap and tapped the brakes. That's when I noticed that there was almost no pressure.

I'm very interested in the oil temp algorithm vs real temp. I read that in another thread as well. If that's the case I'll have to look into an aftermarket oil thermometer.
I would say pedal going to floor is fluid. Air in the lines if you already had DOT4. At the track my stock pads faded, so I had a sensation of not slowing down, but my pedal was still firm.
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Old 05-14-2014, 03:45 PM   #20
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The pedal went to the floor, with almost no pressure. I had plenty of bite on the turn less than 10 seconds before. I went through turn 10, brakes were fine then the checkered flag came out so I went to back off a bit for the cooldown lap and tapped the brakes. That's when I noticed that there was almost no pressure.

I'm very interested in the oil temp algorithm vs real temp. I read that in another thread as well. If that's the case I'll have to look into an aftermarket oil thermometer.
Re: oil temp: I saw that thread and there was a factory electrical diagram posted that indicated there is a temp sensor in the oil level sensor, implying that the gauge reading is actual, not a derived value. Therefore reliable.
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Old 05-18-2014, 03:12 PM   #21
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Something that helps with engine & oil temps is a lower thermostat & for the fans to kick on sooner. the fans can be adjusted to come on earlier by a tune. keep all temps as low as possible, longer engine life & more hp.
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Old 05-18-2014, 07:24 PM   #22
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Quote:
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Re: oil temp: I saw that thread and there was a factory electrical diagram posted that indicated there is a temp sensor in the oil level sensor, implying that the gauge reading is actual, not a derived value. Therefore reliable.
I hope this is true. There's just too much speculation that I'm seeing and that's why I'm doing the test. I'm running an external oil cooler so I'm hoping to see lower temps on my gauge. And I hope the gauge corresponds with the physical temp.
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Old 05-18-2014, 08:08 PM   #23
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I saw significantly lower temps after my external cooler so I don't think its derived but still have plans to put in my actual gauge with warning light since the stock location is useless when trying to check temps at 120+mph. I just don't have time to do the last of my mods.
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