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Old 06-07-2014, 10:52 AM   #1
john2012camaroSS
 
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swaybar upgrade

Upgrading my sway bars. Provided by Tyler at JDP at a great price by the way.

I know through the production run of 2012 Chevy upgraded the endlinks. Im trying to figure out if I have the old ones. The nut connecting the swaybar to the endlink is 15mm Does this mean I have the old endlinks and have to upgrade.
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Last edited by john2012camaroSS; 06-07-2014 at 11:56 PM.
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Old 06-07-2014, 12:42 PM   #2
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Put a 7mm wrench on the end of the bolt, and remove the 15mm nut with an open end wrench.

==>EDIT : I mean, put the 7mm wrench on the end of the bolt, just past the threaded portion. in your pic, put the 7mm just to the LEFT of where your box end wrench is placed. It looks round, but there are actually flats there for a wrench.

I don't have an answer for your question regarding whether you have old or new links... I'm awaiting an answer on that as well as I am looking to install the 1LE bars on my 2012 as well.

Last edited by Kent2010; 06-07-2014 at 05:58 PM.
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Old 06-07-2014, 12:46 PM   #3
Dexman1349
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Are you talking going from FE3 to FE4? Or do 2012's have different FE4 endlinks?

FE3 bars connect to the lower control arms "inside" the rear struts (closer to the center of the car) whereas the FE4 and up connect between the struts and wheels.
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Old 06-07-2014, 02:18 PM   #4
john2012camaroSS
 
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The endlink bolt on my endlink is 15mm. I think the upgraded one is an 18mm. Im confused probably a good excuse to upgrade and spend more money.. the nut and bolt is turning when trying to loosen and the screw you cant see it as its in the endlink if that makes any .sense

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Old 06-07-2014, 02:33 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by john2012camaroSS View Post
Im probably using the wrong terminology. I have the fe4 setup as pictured. The endlink bolt on my endlink is 15mm. I think the upgraded one is an 18mm. Im confused probably a good excuse to upgrade and spend more money.. the nut and bolt is turning when trying to loosen and the screw you cant see it as its in the endlink if that makes any .sense
Kent said use a 7mm wrench to stop the spinning. Are you sure you want to do this yourself? Is your Mommy or Daddy home to help you remove the NUTS!!!!
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Old 06-07-2014, 03:09 PM   #6
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LOL Maybe you dont read so well since your from The garbage illiterate state of New Jersey. Its not an exposed bolt head. So take your cheap a** RS out of here and keep your BS comments to yourself.
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Old 06-07-2014, 06:55 PM   #7
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DUMMY, The END of the bolt doesn't have threads, IT IS SQUARED. That's where you put the wrench. So it's wrench, wrench,swaybar, endlink. I know that the end link is FLAT on the side, but the side that has threads has a squared tip.. YOUR SO DUMB!!!
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Old 06-07-2014, 07:34 PM   #8
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Thanks Jerky I already figured that out hours ago. Why don't you go troll some other website insulting people. People like you present a good argument for birth control.
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Old 06-07-2014, 09:16 PM   #9
Dexman1349
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I wasn't aware there are two types of stock FE4 endlinks. Sorry, can't help anymore.

It doesn't hurt to upgrade end links. I replaced mine because the new ones were on sale, but for only $100-$150, it's cheap insurance.
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Cosmetic: ZL1 front w/mailslot, painted stripes, powdercoated SS rims, tow hook, and Gary's customs bowties, painted emblems and taillight bezels

Suspension: Pfadt subframe bushings, Pfadt rear UCA bushings, Z28 Upper control arms, Spohn trailing arms with BMR trailing arm & differential bushings, ZL1 Toe Rods and springs, Prothane radius arm inserts & steering rack bushing, Pfadt Sport sways, Pfadt strut brace

Drivetrain: RMCR tune, CAI intake, Kooks headers, high-flow cats & exhaust, VMAX TB, ZL1 fuel pump, LSR Tri-Ax shifter

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Old 06-08-2014, 12:51 PM   #10
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In 2012 the (long) front endlinks got thicker on the SS's, but I believe the nuts remained unchanged.

I know this is gonna generate some kind of snide remark... let's make it a contest!

Best funny retort! Who's first?
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Old 06-09-2014, 05:43 PM   #11
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2012 is a funny year... some have the newer ZL1/1LE/13+ endlinks where some still have the older style; most have the older style. We just set John up with some Detroit speed endlinks which can accommodate for either style sway bar, and will be stronger than all other factory options.

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Old 06-09-2014, 08:46 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Eddiefuzz View Post
DUMMY, The END of the bolt doesn't have threads, IT IS SQUARED. That's where you put the wrench. So it's wrench, wrench,swaybar, endlink. I know that the end link is FLAT on the side, but the side that has threads has a squared tip.. YOUR SO DUMB!!!
It's "YOU'RE SO DUMB" not "YOUR SO DUMB" ... You know what they say about people in glass houses or the pot calling the kettle black...duh!
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Old 06-10-2014, 06:41 AM   #13
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Lmao a product of kissing cousins. Go easy on him.
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Old 06-10-2014, 11:31 AM   #14
Dexman1349
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Sorry, can't help it:


Quote:
Originally Posted by JDP Tyler View Post
2012 is a funny year... some have the newer ZL1/1LE/13+ endlinks where some still have the older style; most have the older style. We just set John up with some Detroit speed endlinks which can accommodate for either style sway bar, and will be stronger than all other factory options.

Best regards,

Tyler
888-308-6007
Tyler gives good advice. It never hurts to upgrade endlinks when getting new sways.
__________________
2/7/2014: 419 hp, 419 tq

Cosmetic: ZL1 front w/mailslot, painted stripes, powdercoated SS rims, tow hook, and Gary's customs bowties, painted emblems and taillight bezels

Suspension: Pfadt subframe bushings, Pfadt rear UCA bushings, Z28 Upper control arms, Spohn trailing arms with BMR trailing arm & differential bushings, ZL1 Toe Rods and springs, Prothane radius arm inserts & steering rack bushing, Pfadt Sport sways, Pfadt strut brace

Drivetrain: RMCR tune, CAI intake, Kooks headers, high-flow cats & exhaust, VMAX TB, ZL1 fuel pump, LSR Tri-Ax shifter

Bumblebee Racecar Build
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Old 06-10-2014, 12:16 PM   #15
bwk1971
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dexman1349 View Post
Sorry, can't help it:
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Old 06-11-2014, 05:43 PM   #16
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That great.
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