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Old 08-13-2014, 07:51 PM   #69
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Supercharger oil change and leak test ???

Ok coming up on switching up my supercharger oil is it really simple as this..

1. Un screw Plug oil drain at bottom of brass Line located at the bottom of the head

2 allow four oz of fluid to drain out

3 refill with new vortech synthetic lubricant

4 check fluied level with dip stick

Am I missing some thing ?

Alright update got my oil chaged out easy after talking to Alex so thanks lil nasty .
Will do a boost leak test next days off

For the leak test where do u attract the tester ? Do you place it where the filter would go?

Thanks in advance

.
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Old 08-14-2014, 03:29 PM   #70
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I was thinking. can't I replace one of my rear o2 sensors with a wide band for AFR instead of welding in a bung? would make things a lot easier installing my AEM afr...
not sure if I read this somewhere on here before.

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Old 08-14-2014, 07:32 PM   #71
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Black Knight View Post
Ok coming up on switching up my supercharger oil is it really simple as this..

1. Un screw Plug oil drain at bottom of brass Line located at the bottom of the head

2 allow four oz of fluid to drain out

3 refill with new vortech synthetic lubricant

4 check fluied level with dip stick

Am I missing some thing ?

Alright update got my oil chaged out easy after talking to Alex so thanks lil nasty .
Will do a boost leak test next days off

For the leak test where do u attract the tester ? Do you place it where the filter would go?

Thanks in advance

.
Oil change is correct, and I put the tester on the supercharger inlet, it is 3.5".

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I was thinking. can't I replace one of my rear o2 sensors with a wide band for AFR instead of welding in a bung? would make things a lot easier installing my AEM afr...
not sure if I read this somewhere on here before.

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I removed my o2 rear sensors and put my widebands there, just make sure you don't have cats.
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Old 08-14-2014, 07:41 PM   #72
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I removed my o2 rear sensors and put my widebands there, just make sure you don't have cats.

I currently have BBK headers and the high flow cats that come with them. I'm only running the AFR now no supercharger yet. I just want to make sure it was my poor trifecta tune leaning out my car or if there's a bigger issue before I get the kit. Once I do I plan on gutting the cats and eventually weld up a flanged straight pipe so I can unbolt it and install my cats when I need emissions done.

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Old 08-17-2014, 10:08 AM   #73
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Don't know if I mentioned this, but if you do a leak test REMOVE THE OIL CAP.

Hate to use caps like that but it is extremely important, if you don't you could blow your seals. I did a leak test yesterday and I could feel the air coming out of the oil cap hole. I got mine up to 12 PSI, no leaks and it was a very slow leak down, so mine is good to go. I was able to remove the 90 degree elbow on the supercharger inlet and place my leak tester without having to remove the wheel.
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Old 08-17-2014, 08:02 PM   #74
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Good to know . Got my leak tester in will try it out on days off.
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Old 08-18-2014, 04:10 PM   #75
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So I am in the process of leak testing, and as you can see in the picture, there is a metal pipe that bends downward 90 degrees and gets in the way of the leak tester. Then there are some wires that connect to a valve that connect to the metal pipe (valve is circled). I disconnected the wires and screwed off the valve, and I heard a popping noise and this green dust comes out of the valve for a couple seconds. Anyway now the tester fits into place, but I can't get any pressure to build up. It just goes to 1 psi and stops. I am using an air compressor and wait till it builds up 80 psi before using it. Did I do anything wrong?
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Old 08-18-2014, 04:35 PM   #76
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Silver piping looks like an ac line

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Old 08-18-2014, 06:21 PM   #77
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Originally Posted by djrasras View Post
So I am in the process of leak testing, and as you can see in the picture, there is a metal pipe that bends downward 90 degrees and gets in the way of the leak tester. Then there are some wires that connect to a valve that connect to the metal pipe (valve is circled). I disconnected the wires and screwed off the valve, and I heard a popping noise and this green dust comes out of the valve for a couple seconds. Anyway now the tester fits into place, but I can't get any pressure to build up. It just goes to 1 psi and stops. I am using an air compressor and wait till it builds up 80 psi before using it. Did I do anything wrong?
That line is for the AC, my line is pushed over enough from when I had a Cold Air Induction intake. No clue if you depressurized your AC.

I use a tire inflator because you are filling up a LOT of space, your compressor might not have enough volume.
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Old 08-18-2014, 07:04 PM   #78
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That line is for the AC, my line is pushed over enough from when I had a Cold Air Induction intake. No clue if you depressurized your AC.

I use a tire inflator because you are filling up a LOT of space, your compressor might not have enough volume.

Ya I'm using my tire inflator now, and it's also not doing anything. How long should it take to build up pressure? My inflator says "pressure: 160psi" on it.
Aren't I supposed to "cap" the tubing somewhere? Where would pressure build up if it's just circulating though the tubing?
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Old 08-18-2014, 07:25 PM   #79
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Ya I'm using my tire inflator now, and it's also not doing anything. How long should it take to build up pressure? My inflator says "pressure: 160psi" on it.
Aren't I supposed to "cap" the tubing somewhere? Where would pressure build up if it's just circulating though the tubing?
It should build up 5 almost instantly unless you have a massive leak. Is the previous picture you have how the tester is on the supercharger inlet now? If so that is where the leak is, the tester silicon should be pushed on the inlet all the way and then the clamp tightened down right at the edge.

The pressure builds up all the way through the tubes into the intake manifold. Some excess pressure will go past the pistons and through the crankcase out the oil cap hole. How much boost do you have during normal driving? You only want to put as much pressure as you are going to boost it to.
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Old 08-18-2014, 07:34 PM   #80
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It should build up 5 almost instantly unless you have a massive leak. Is the previous picture you have how the tester is on the supercharger inlet now? If so that is where the leak is, the tester silicon should be pushed on the inlet all the way and then the clamp tightened down right at the edge.

The pressure builds up all the way through the tubes into the intake manifold. Some excess pressure will go past the pistons and through the crankcase out the oil cap hole. How much boost do you have during normal driving? You only want to put as much pressure as you are going to boost it to.
I don't have gauges yet and won't be getting them for a while because I want to get some nice digital ones, so I have no idea how much boost I am usually running. The picture I had in my last post was before I removed the AC valve (and possibly depressurized it), and right now now it is fitting on completely tight. I think the problem is both my tire inflator and compressor are weak, because the tire inflator does absolutely nothing, and the compressor immediately builds up 1-2 psi, then the compressor kicks in and the gauge goes back down. I am using my friend's larger compressor tomorrow and will report how it goes.

Btw did I do any real damage to the AC? I have never dealt with "depressurizing" one...
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Old 08-18-2014, 07:45 PM   #81
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I don't have gauges yet and won't be getting them for a while because I want to get some nice digital ones, so I have no idea how much boost I am usually running. The picture I had in my last post was before I removed the AC valve (and possibly depressurized it), and right now now it is fitting on completely tight. I think the problem is both my tire inflator and compressor are weak, because the tire inflator does absolutely nothing, and the compressor immediately builds up 1-2 psi, then the compressor kicks in and the gauge goes back down. I am using my friend's larger compressor tomorrow and will report how it goes.

Btw did I do any real damage to the AC? I have never dealt with "depressurizing" one...
No clue, never done it myself. May need to ask in general area of the forum.
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Old 08-18-2014, 08:01 PM   #82
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On another note, got my emblem from emblem pros today; subtle way to show whats under the hood (well as subtle as you can get when driving a bumblebee with blue halos and hid fogs :roll eyes
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Old 08-19-2014, 11:14 PM   #83
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Originally Posted by MagnumForceGB View Post
That line is for the AC, my line is pushed over enough from when I had a Cold Air Induction intake. No clue if you depressurized your AC.

I use a tire inflator because you are filling up a LOT of space, your compressor might not have enough volume.
How did you push that line over? Did you just nudge it over ?
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Old 08-20-2014, 12:32 PM   #84
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How did you push that line over? Did you just nudge it over ?
Yeah, just moved it a little bit, I had to for the CAI box. That was over 2 years ago so I may have used an 8 lb sledge hammer and forgot about it.
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Old 08-20-2014, 06:49 PM   #85
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So update on the leak testing. I got a much more powerful air compressor, and immediately it was clear the the silicone piping from the intercooler to the throttle body was not clamped properly. Upon fixing that, I can get 6 psi into the leak tester and it won't go past that, and I can hear a hissing noise from the left side of the intake manifold under the plenum (can't feel much air coming out though). I am guessing it is the iceolator spacer, because the two intake bolts on the left side at the top center of the plenum don't catch as well, so I probably need to get longer ones. But before that, I was wondering, Magnum, have you tested the difference between having the iceolator on and off? Because I might just keep the stock bolts and just remove the spacer if it's gonna cause me trouble in the future.
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