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Old 08-06-2014, 09:37 PM   #51
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Hey magnum with the leak proof tester . Did you go with 15 psi gauge ? T clamp? . Going to order tonight
I ordered a 30 PSI gauge since I planned on going up in boost to 16. For the T-Clamp I didn't go with, but they did a upgrade to dual t-clamps for free.
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Old 08-06-2014, 09:57 PM   #52
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Nice . Could I use a air compressor that I plug into my lighter jak. It's just goes on and off theirs no way to set it up to not go higher than 10psi ?
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Old 08-06-2014, 10:03 PM   #53
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Nice . Could I use a air compressor that I plug into my lighter jak. It's just goes on and off theirs no way to set it up to not go higher than 10psi ?
No clue, I have a Ryobi air compressor that I use, the most I could get the PSI was up to 12, think I would need something even more powerful to get higher. Don't forget to take your oil cap off or you could over pressurize your crankcase.
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Old 08-06-2014, 11:13 PM   #54
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It's the (3.5)in I'm guessing right

Edit found answer on 1st page 3.5
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Old 08-06-2014, 11:15 PM   #55
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Could I use a pump like this lol
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Old 08-07-2014, 04:35 AM   #56
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Yes and please post a video here as well.... :-)
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Old 08-07-2014, 12:27 PM   #57
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Could I use a pump like this lol
If you've been single all your life you might have the muscle to do that...
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Old 08-07-2014, 03:23 PM   #58
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If you've been single all your life you might have the muscle to do that...
... manual pump it is
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Old 08-07-2014, 04:39 PM   #59
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If you've been single all your life you might have the muscle to do that...
Lmao . No married man here
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Old 08-08-2014, 11:53 AM   #60
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If you've been single all your life you might have the muscle to do that...



What do you guys think about changing the plugs from factory to one step cooler? I'm not sure exactly what gap to use but i know cant_c_me had good results from the auto lite plugs.

Just dont want any problems from too small of a gap or doing a one step cooler plug.
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Old 08-08-2014, 11:54 AM   #61
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I changed mine

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Old 08-08-2014, 12:32 PM   #62
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What do you guys think about changing the plugs from factory to one step cooler? I'm not sure exactly what gap to use but i know cant_c_me had good results from the auto lite plugs.

Just dont want any problems from too small of a gap or doing a one step cooler plug.
I went with 2 step colder plugs, Denso ITV24's. They work extremely well, even helps knock a little bit. The one step colder ones, Denso ITV22's work well too. Both of them are pre-gapped to 0.030", so no need to mess around with them.

Only thing I didn't like about Autolite plugs was you had to adjust the gap yourself, not really recommended on Iridium plugs.
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Old 08-08-2014, 03:31 PM   #63
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I went with 2 step colder plugs, Denso ITV24's. They work extremely well, even helps knock a little bit. The one step colder ones, Denso ITV22's work well too. Both of them are pre-gapped to 0.030", so no need to mess around with them.

Only thing I didn't like about Autolite plugs was you had to adjust the gap yourself, not really recommended on Iridium plugs.
thanks magnum....bought some NGK'S so we'll see how they do once I get them.
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Old 08-13-2014, 10:33 AM   #64
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Magnum, you can add this to the accessories section for Intake sock. We have the 700-455 Airraid Filter, so I bought this water-repellant sock
https://www.airaid.com/ProductDetail...ductID=799-450
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Old 08-13-2014, 11:33 AM   #65
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thanks magnum....bought some NGK'S so we'll see how they do once I get them.
I'm using the NGK's 1 step colder now. No complaints.
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Old 08-13-2014, 12:26 PM   #66
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Magnum, you can add this to the accessories section for Intake sock. We have the 700-455 Airraid Filter, so I bought this water-repellant sock
https://www.airaid.com/ProductDetail...ductID=799-450
Thanks, added to accessories and the main part under Filter.
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Old 08-13-2014, 02:34 PM   #67
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anyone running a boost guage where did you guys tap it into??

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Old 08-13-2014, 02:56 PM   #68
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anyone running a boost guage where did you guys tap it into??

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There is a vacuum line that runs from the intake manifold to the bypass valve. You T-line into that, which most boost gauges come with the T fitting.

It is real simple and adds 40 HP.
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Old 08-13-2014, 07:51 PM   #69
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Supercharger oil change and leak test ???

Ok coming up on switching up my supercharger oil is it really simple as this..

1. Un screw Plug oil drain at bottom of brass Line located at the bottom of the head

2 allow four oz of fluid to drain out

3 refill with new vortech synthetic lubricant

4 check fluied level with dip stick

Am I missing some thing ?

Alright update got my oil chaged out easy after talking to Alex so thanks lil nasty .
Will do a boost leak test next days off

For the leak test where do u attract the tester ? Do you place it where the filter would go?

Thanks in advance

.
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Old 08-14-2014, 03:29 PM   #70
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I was thinking. can't I replace one of my rear o2 sensors with a wide band for AFR instead of welding in a bung? would make things a lot easier installing my AEM afr...
not sure if I read this somewhere on here before.

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Old 08-14-2014, 07:32 PM   #71
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Ok coming up on switching up my supercharger oil is it really simple as this..

1. Un screw Plug oil drain at bottom of brass Line located at the bottom of the head

2 allow four oz of fluid to drain out

3 refill with new vortech synthetic lubricant

4 check fluied level with dip stick

Am I missing some thing ?

Alright update got my oil chaged out easy after talking to Alex so thanks lil nasty .
Will do a boost leak test next days off

For the leak test where do u attract the tester ? Do you place it where the filter would go?

Thanks in advance

.
Oil change is correct, and I put the tester on the supercharger inlet, it is 3.5".

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I was thinking. can't I replace one of my rear o2 sensors with a wide band for AFR instead of welding in a bung? would make things a lot easier installing my AEM afr...
not sure if I read this somewhere on here before.

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I removed my o2 rear sensors and put my widebands there, just make sure you don't have cats.
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Old 08-14-2014, 07:41 PM   #72
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I removed my o2 rear sensors and put my widebands there, just make sure you don't have cats.

I currently have BBK headers and the high flow cats that come with them. I'm only running the AFR now no supercharger yet. I just want to make sure it was my poor trifecta tune leaning out my car or if there's a bigger issue before I get the kit. Once I do I plan on gutting the cats and eventually weld up a flanged straight pipe so I can unbolt it and install my cats when I need emissions done.

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Old 08-17-2014, 10:08 AM   #73
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Don't know if I mentioned this, but if you do a leak test REMOVE THE OIL CAP.

Hate to use caps like that but it is extremely important, if you don't you could blow your seals. I did a leak test yesterday and I could feel the air coming out of the oil cap hole. I got mine up to 12 PSI, no leaks and it was a very slow leak down, so mine is good to go. I was able to remove the 90 degree elbow on the supercharger inlet and place my leak tester without having to remove the wheel.
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Old 08-17-2014, 08:02 PM   #74
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Good to know . Got my leak tester in will try it out on days off.
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Old 08-18-2014, 04:10 PM   #75
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So I am in the process of leak testing, and as you can see in the picture, there is a metal pipe that bends downward 90 degrees and gets in the way of the leak tester. Then there are some wires that connect to a valve that connect to the metal pipe (valve is circled). I disconnected the wires and screwed off the valve, and I heard a popping noise and this green dust comes out of the valve for a couple seconds. Anyway now the tester fits into place, but I can't get any pressure to build up. It just goes to 1 psi and stops. I am using an air compressor and wait till it builds up 80 psi before using it. Did I do anything wrong?
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