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V8 and V6 Transmissions / Driveline (6L80 / 6L50 / TR6060 / AY6) Driveshafts | Differentials | Gears | Rearends | Clutch | Shifters

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Old 08-13-2014, 06:51 AM   #26
ttshovel
 
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Diff bushings are much stiffer than the ss ones. I get some gear noise at low speeds. I would not touch them
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Old 08-13-2014, 10:08 PM   #27
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Diff bushings are much stiffer than the ss ones. I get some gear noise at low speeds. I would not touch them
Thanks for the info! I know where I can save a few bucks on an install. Toe links, quality cradle bushings, and new rear upper control arm bushings with the ZL1 setup and I'm good to go.....for now.

Then I gotta save for a one piece driveshaft and an aftermarket ZR1 upgraded clutch. By then, I have my cold air intake and ported TB. That should get me near 435 RWHP.
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Old 08-15-2014, 10:54 PM   #28
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http://www.superchevyperformance.com...p/22959394.htm

The only thing is the instructions sucked! It was missing a lot off torque specs and it said nothing about a different yoke which was included. You have to use a puller to get it of also. And you have to pull the spindles you can't just swing them out of the way. No modifications needed to fit the diff
I'm guessing the yoke is for the transmission ?
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Old 08-15-2014, 11:32 PM   #29
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I'm guessing the yoke is for the transmission ?
Yes sir
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Old 08-16-2014, 05:17 AM   #30
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Yes sir
Thanks..... Ohh and the bushings are very hard. Almost as hard as the bmr bushing. The difference is so small I don't think it's worth the change.
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Old 08-16-2014, 08:17 AM   #31
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Originally Posted by Snidely Whiplash View Post
Thanks for the info! I know where I can save a few bucks on an install. Toe links, quality cradle bushings, and new rear upper control arm bushings with the ZL1 setup and I'm good to go.....for now.

Then I gotta save for a one piece driveshaft and an aftermarket ZR1 upgraded clutch. By then, I have my cold air intake and ported TB. That should get me near 435 RWHP.
There's a lot of good info on clutches on this site it pays to do some homework
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Old 08-16-2014, 08:40 AM   #32
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There's a lot of good info on clutches on this site it pays to do some homework
Maybe twin carbon street slayer
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Old 08-16-2014, 08:53 AM   #33
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ttshovel View Post
http://www.superchevyperformance.com...p/22959394.htm

The only thing is the instructions sucked! It was missing a lot off torque specs and it said nothing about a different yoke which was included. You have to use a puller to get it of also. And you have to pull the spindles you can't just swing them out of the way. No modifications needed to fit the diff
What did you use to pull the yoke off? & did you just drive it using the nut? Sorry gotta ask
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Old 08-16-2014, 11:13 AM   #34
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What did you use to pull the yoke off? & did you just drive it using the nut? Sorry gotta ask
I used a 2 jaw balancer puller and it came off with ease. Then I used a socket and drove it on. Then the nut gets torqued to 77ft/lbs

The whole job was 3 and a half hours start to finish. But I have a lift. Definitely have someone help you with the center section that thing is heavy(144lbs)
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Old 08-16-2014, 09:24 PM   #35
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I used a 2 jaw balancer puller and it came off with ease. Then I used a socket and drove it on. Then the nut gets torqued to 77ft/lbs

The whole job was 3 and a half hours start to finish. But I have a lift. Definitely have someone help you with the center section that thing is heavy(144lbs)
I wish I had a lift. I did it jack stands. It took me about four hours and I'm tired as hell.
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Old 08-17-2014, 01:57 AM   #36
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I wish I had a lift. I did it jack stands. It took me about four hours and I'm tired as hell.
You did it today?
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Old 08-17-2014, 01:25 PM   #37
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You did it today?
Yes.
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Old 08-17-2014, 04:51 PM   #38
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It's not bad at all, there is some crappy instructions that come with it as you already know lol
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Old 08-17-2014, 09:25 PM   #39
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It's not bad at all, there is some crappy instructions that come with it as you already know lol
Well thanks for all your help and following this thread. It made a huge difference.
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Old 08-17-2014, 10:06 PM   #40
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I have had mine over a year with no problems takes everything I throw at it. For the ones that have the rear what gear oil are you running ? I have the moan when the oil is cold. Goes away when warm.
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Old 08-18-2014, 06:15 PM   #41
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I have had mine over a year with no problems takes everything I throw at it. For the ones that have the rear what gear oil are you running ? I have the moan when the oil is cold. Goes away when warm.
Mine too, stock zl1 fluid.

Op, not a problem
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Old 08-18-2014, 08:08 PM   #42
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Can someone please explain how strong the ZL1 rear is I have a 2010 SS 6 speed manul with a Whipple only 585rwhp but I'm going to drag race the car I want to know if I would be able to pop the clutch at 4-5 grand and if it will handle it also planning to put a 2 step if can please post videos anything thanks guys
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Old 08-18-2014, 09:08 PM   #43
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Can someone please explain how strong the ZL1 rear is I have a 2010 SS 6 speed manul with a Whipple only 585rwhp but I'm going to drag race the car I want to know if I would be able to pop the clutch at 4-5 grand and if it will handle it also planning to put a 2 step if can please post videos anything thanks guys
The ZL1 rear is considerably stronger than the diff in an SS or 1LE. From what I have heard, the diff can handle 1000whp. So far I have not heard of any ZL1 diff's breaking, even from tons of hard launches and modded engines well over stock.

An SS diff on the other hand has been known to break things with just bolt-ons added. It is supposed to be good for 600whp but a few members had snapped axles and drive shafts. One thing everyone is saying, if you plan on drag racing a lot the SS diff will go at some point.

3700 for a complete ZL1 bolt on diff is not a bad price (at least that is the price quote I have heard).
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