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Old 08-11-2014, 06:24 PM   #1
TofuDragon
 
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DIY: Fortin THAR-GM1v1 harness + EVO-ALL basic install

This thread was previously a supposed to be a Push Button Start DIY... but after much waiting and frustration in contacting the Advanced Keys company, I got my answer that the kit doesn't support the Camaro 100%. How nice of them to tell me after weeks of anguish. At any rate, see my post on the 2nd page of this thread. As a result, I'm converting this DIY into a what I've already posted: the Fortin Bypass install. I'll gray out the push button stuff. After this install, you're free to connect the bypass to the system of your choice.

Here is my answer to the GM Camaro key recall. I've been driving around with it for over a week and it works like a champ! Well, honestly there are still one of two things I'd like to adjust/resolve and I'm trying to contact the company now. The core functionality (push to start and proximity door lock/unlock) works great like it should though, so I'm quite happy.

If you're not familiar with this kind of setup, it works like this: have the new fob in your pocket, walk up to car, it senses the fob is within range and unlocks, you get in and step on the brake (+ clutch in my case), push button, and car starts up. No inserting a "potentially dangerous" keyfob (according to GM) or turning a key. I'll upload a video eventually.

I decided to install this myself despite limited wiring experience. Honestly, this was a difficult install for me only because of the lack of a step-by-step. The hardest part was just scouring the forums and internet for wiring diagrams and trying to learn as I went. The instructions that came with the kit are only adequate and not specific to the Camaro. Plus since my car is a daily driver, there's the whole fear of not making it to work the next day... wait, that might not be so bad, haha.

I think that after I post up what I did, others should be able to follow in my footsteps a lot more easily. Plus there is some bonus functionality that I haven't wired up yet; maybe you can help me!

It'll take me some time to post up everything since I'm doing the write up as I scour through all the photos I took, so please be patient.


MAIN COMPONENTS:
  • Advanced Keys Smart Keyless Entry and Push Button Start Kit (AK-105B) $369.94 shipped from Canada
  • Fortin EVO-ALL Key Bypass $55.55 shipped, eBay seller gadget-town
  • Fortin T-Harness for GM Vehicles (THAR-GM1v2), $33.03 shipped, eBay seller gadget-town
Total: $458.52, for main components

Note: You might be like, hey, this looks familiar... another forum member GAHDOOSH was planning on doing a DIY on his RS, but has since upgraded and is likely working on other things. I gave him the heads up that I was posting my own DIY.

Misc costs/parts:
  • hole saw blade + attachment $17.95
  • 22-24 gauge wire that I already had from the door locks wiring project
  • some industrial strength adhesive that I had
  • soldering iron, solder
  • electrical tape
  • wire stripper or box-cutter knife

DISCLAIMER: I'm not responsible for any damage you do to your car. I'm also not a professional auto-alarm installer so I don't claim that any of this is how you're supposed to do it. It's just what is working for me after much sweat and turmoil (literally, since I did it in my un-airconditioned garage when it was 95+ degrees outside). Like the kit says, it's recommended to have a pro shop install this... (but I think that's what most people who have gotten this kit have done because of the lack of tutorials out there)
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Old 08-11-2014, 06:24 PM   #2
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Here are the main components with some description:
---
Fortin EVO-ALL: This is the key-bypass module. Our keyfobs have a chip in them that is programmed to your ignition. If the keyfob is not next to the ignition when starting the car, the ignition doesn't crank. Since you don't use the stock keyfob when you're all done with this, you need this key-bypass module to "trick" the car into thinking that the keyfob is there when it actually isn't. This module is commonly used for aftermarket remote start kits. The one I bought came pre-installed with firmware 4.18, which works fine without needing to update.


---
Fortin THAR-GM1v2: This is a pre-wired T-Harness connector that greatly simplifies a lot of the connections that you would normally make when installing the EVO-ALL. People have reported that you can install a remote start or alarm in less than 15 minutes with this. It took me a heck of a lot longer, but that's just because I took my time AND didn't really know what I was doing. There are different versions of this T-Harness. GM1v2 is what works with 2010-2014 Camaros, as far as I know.

---
Advanced Keys AK-105B: Made by a Canadian-based company, this kit is essentially what I installed. My main objective was to get Push Button Start. As a bonus, I also got proximity RFID lock/unlock... which is actually really sweet. The kit also includes Remote Start and Alarm functionality, which I have not yet wired... but not required to get the Push to Start or proximity thing working. Note that the current latest model number of the kit is AK-105B (B for "button", since they also have a turn switch version). The website still says 104B, but they always ship out the latest (verified this via email).
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Old 08-11-2014, 06:25 PM   #3
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Note: You should disconnect the negative terminal of your car battery before doing any connections and reconnect when necessary. Remember to not close your trunk when the battery is still disconnected.
---
Remove steering column bottom covers: The steering column has two plastic pieces covering the bottom half of it, and one piece covering the top half. You only need to remove the two bottom pieces. In the photo, the 4 spots circled in yellow are the screws/bolts you'll need to remove. They'll either be 7mm bolts or screws that need a Philips head screwdriver. The yellow arrow is just to show where the ignition keyhole is. After you take out the screws/bolts, pull open all the way the lever that controls your steering tilt/telescoping mechanism. Then reach into the area marked with the red arrow and pull the plastic down. The left piece should pop right out. Maneuver it out past the tilt/telescoping lever, and then you'll be able to take out the right side piece.

---
Install THAR-GM1v2 T-Harness: Here is the diagram from the t-harness instructions on how to install it. Pretty straightforward, but I'll break it down anyway. If you study this diagram, you'll see that there are two main connections we're dealing with on the ignition column of your car. The T-Harness has 4 connector ends (2 male, 2 female). You essentially unplug 2 the ignition connections from your car, plug them into the 2 female ends on the T-Harness, then take the 2 remaining male T-Harness ends and plug them back into the spots on the ignition column that were vacated earlier.

---
Here's the view of the left side of the ignition column. You'll pull the connector indicated out. Use a small flathead screwdriver to pull the red lock tab out, then to help you push the tab up as you pull out. You shouldn't grab and pull only by the wires, but they're really secure in there so if you grab the connector and some wire, you should be okay.


---
Here's the view of the right side of the ignition column. Pull the small maroon connector out. It should come right out without pushing any tabs, but if you want, use small flathead to push the tab up like in the photo while you pull.


---
After you have pulled the 2 connectors out from the car's ignition column, refer back to the diagram above and it should make sense. Connect all 4 connector ends of the T-Harness and the 2 connections you pulled, and the T-Harness is installed.
Note: If at any point you need to revert back to stock, just remove the T-harness and put the 2 ignition connections back.
---
Install EVO-ALL Key Bypass:

Connect to CAN bus:
The EVO-ALL comes in a small box with the small black unit and a plastic bag of wiring (see description photo). You won't need most of the wiring since the THAR-GM1v2 takes care of most of it for you. The only wire bundle from the EVO-ALL box you'll need to take out is the one with the small white 5-pin connector with brown, gray, gray-stripe, and two orange with whatever stripe wires. The important wire out of these is the brown one; you're actually supposed to cut the rest off at the connector (marked with a red line in the photo). I was scared and didn't cut them until the very end, but honestly they are useless for this install.


Now go to the OBDII connector in your car (the port where you can connect to and read your check engine codes). If you don't know where it is, it's a few inches to the left of the hood latch you use to pop the hood. Get underneath there and use a small flathead screwdriver to push on the tab while pushing the connector away. It should slide right out:



Rotate the OBDII port until you can see the wires. Here's the first of many splices: splice the end of the brown wire from the 5-pin EVO-ALL connector earlier into the green wire (CAN bus, circled in yellow) coming from port 1 of the OBDII connector.
Note: For the rest of this DIY tutorial, if I say splice, you can use any method you want to get the wires to connect. T-taps would be a quick method. I did it the hard way and cut away the wire sheathing with a knife, tied in the 2nd wire, soldered the connection, then wrapped it up with electrical tape. Do it however you want; just make sure the connection is secure.


Programming the EVO-ALL:
The THAR-GM1v2 should still be connected to the ignition from before, and have 4 unconnected connector ends
-1 white 20-pin connector, marked in the photo as A
-1 red 6-pin connector, marked B
-1 black 4 pin connector that fits into the EVO-ALL, marked C
-1 black 4 pin connector that doesn't fit into the EVO-ALL, marked D

---
Now reconnect the negative terminal on your battery if you had disconnected it, since you'll need power to do the programming. Go through the following directions step by step (but make note of the photo I posted right after it). Remember to start with no connectors inserted. The 4-pin (Data-Link) connector they reference is the one marked C in my photos. Also if at the end you don't get the flashing blue led, then you didn't connect the CAN bus connector correctly.


In step#2 of the directions above, it tells you to "insert the remaining connectors." See the photo below to see which connections go where. Remember to push the connector in until you hear it click. The connection marked with the red arrow is the CAN bus connector you spliced earlier (with 1 brown wire left if you were brave enough to cut the rest).

---
Your Fortin EVO-ALL key bypass should now be programmed and ready to go.
Optional step: It doesn't lose the programming when you disconnect it, so at this point the easiest way to proceed would be to remove the THAR-GM1v2 harness and the EVO-ALL from the car, and re-insert the two stock ignition connectors back, essentially bringing the car back to stock. This way you can bring the entire Fortin setup to a suitable work area and do the wiring to the AK-105B without having to be near your car. Helps if you're breaking up the install into days, or your garage is a sauna.
---
[AT THIS POINT CONNECT TO A COMPATIBLE REMOTE START/ALARM SYSTEM ON YOUR CHOICE]
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Old 08-11-2014, 06:26 PM   #4
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Nothing to see here, sadly.
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Old 08-11-2014, 06:26 PM   #5
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No key, push to start. You know what it is. Black and yellow.
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Old 08-11-2014, 06:48 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by URBAN LEGEND View Post
No key, push to start. You know what it is. Black and yellow.
Except the song was a reference to his Charger.
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Old 08-12-2014, 12:51 AM   #7
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does remote start still work ?
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Old 08-12-2014, 04:13 AM   #8
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job well done buddy, now lets see how the advanced keys system is wired up! im going to order this as soon as the rest of the diy is up. Subscribed!
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Old 08-12-2014, 09:46 AM   #9
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Sweet!! Thanks for write up.
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Old 08-12-2014, 10:10 AM   #10
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Nice write up so far... How is the steering wheel lock disabled is what I'm wondering? Does it unlock when you are in proximity of the car, or start the car? Or does this harness disable it permanently?
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Old 08-12-2014, 12:37 PM   #11
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Quote:
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Nice write up so far... How is the steering wheel lock disabled is what I'm wondering? Does it unlock when you are in proximity of the car, or start the car? Or does this harness disable it permanently?
The steering wheel lock is disabled through a spare/cut key that you leave in the ignition, turned 1 click to accessory (ACC). At first I wasn't all that excited about cutting a key and having it stay in the ignition, but it works well. Plus I had an extra OEM keyfob that had worn away buttons so I just dismantled it. Another sly option would be to do the GM key recall, get the replacement key and cut that. Although I hear getting a spare key made isn't that expensive as long as you can find a locksmith with a laser cutter.

In order to leave the cut key in the ignition without draining the battery, there is some extra wire cutting/splicing to do. I did all the cuts on the t-harness instead of the actual car wires. Oh, and the cut key is removable if needed to re-enable steering lock... and then you can use your normal key as a failsafe.
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Old 08-12-2014, 03:41 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TofuDragon View Post
The steering wheel lock is disabled through a spare/cut key that you leave in the ignition, turned 1 click to accessory (ACC). At first I wasn't all that excited about cutting a key and having it stay in the ignition, but it works well. Plus I had an extra OEM keyfob that had worn away buttons so I just dismantled it. Another sly option would be to do the GM key recall, get the replacement key and cut that. Although I hear getting a spare key made isn't that expensive as long as you can find a locksmith with a laser cutter.

In order to leave the cut key in the ignition without draining the battery, there is some extra wire cutting/splicing to do. I did all the cuts on the t-harness instead of the actual car wires. Oh, and the cut key is removable if needed to re-enable steering lock... and then you can use your normal key as a failsafe.
FWIW, my Chevy dealership got me a brand new key fob (switch blade key) for under $80 (In case people need spares)
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Old 08-12-2014, 04:16 PM   #13
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Nice Mod, OP!

A thought on the key -
cement or affix a cut off key into a decorative cap that will cover the original
ignition switch roundel/raised boss. It will look like just a blank cover/cap since the
push button switch will be obvious. That way, you could still turn the key to unlock
the steering wheel.

Like this:
http://crapmods.com/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=16&t=1518

Last edited by Ricamaro; 08-12-2014 at 06:33 PM.
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Old 08-12-2014, 11:47 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ricamaro View Post
Nice Mod, OP!

A thought on the key -
cement or affix a cut off key into a decorative cap that will cover the original
ignition switch roundel/raised boss. It will look like just a blank cover/cap since the
push button switch will be obvious. That way, you could still turn the key to unlock
the steering wheel.

Like this:
http://crapmods.com/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=16&t=1518
This is a really interesting concept; thanks for posting it!
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Old 08-13-2014, 02:20 AM   #15
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This may be a heck of a stupid question, but any chance the Fortin THAR-GM1v2 would work on a 2014 camaro? Or any of the three items required, for that matter?
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Old 08-13-2014, 11:02 AM   #16
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This may be a heck of a stupid question, but any chance the Fortin THAR-GM1v2 would work on a 2014 camaro? Or any of the three items required, for that matter?
From what I can gather from the Fortin website (http://fortin.ca/), yes it does (99% sure)! I've edited my info above accordingly. It doesn't say anything about v2 though, so I'm assuming it's all v2 now for the GM1 T-harness. If you want to be 100% sure though, feel free to email them directly.
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Old 08-14-2014, 10:53 AM   #17
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Quote:
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does remote start still work ?
Don't know if stock GM remote start will still work, but the new system has remote start functionality built in. You just have to wire it up.
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Old 08-14-2014, 03:47 PM   #18
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Just a clarification: in cars with manual transmissions do you have to press clutch and brake for push to start?
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Old 08-14-2014, 04:56 PM   #19
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Old 08-14-2014, 05:32 PM   #20
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Just a clarification: in cars with manual transmissions do you have to press clutch and brake for push to start?
Yes, mine is a manual transmission and I have to hold both the clutch and brake like normal.
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Old 08-15-2014, 11:46 AM   #21
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Originally Posted by TofuDragon View Post
From what I can gather from the Fortin website (http://fortin.ca/), yes it does (99% sure)! I've edited my info above accordingly. It doesn't say anything about v2 though, so I'm assuming it's all v2 now for the GM1 T-harness. If you want to be 100% sure though, feel free to email them directly.
I emailed Fortin.. This is basically the reply I got (in case anyone else that wants to follow the DIY):
"The THAR-GM1 is the old model of the THAR-GM1v2. This harness is to be used with an EVO-ALL and is wired to allow the addition of a remote start system or using the EVO-ALL to remote start the vehicle using the OEM remote."
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Old 08-16-2014, 12:23 PM   #22
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I assume its like ACD174's set up, or at least sounds similar enough, would the button be able to be place in the original key ignition location as he did?

http://www.camaro5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=153796
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Old 08-16-2014, 02:29 PM   #23
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Originally Posted by TofuDragon View Post
In order to leave the cut key in the ignition without draining the battery, there is some extra wire cutting/splicing to do. I did all the cuts on the t-harness instead of the actual car wires. Oh, and the cut key is removable if needed to re-enable steering lock... and then you can use your normal key as a failsafe.
When you said you did the extra wire cutting/splicing, do you mean the cutting the extra wires off of the CAN bus and splicing the brown wire with the green wire?
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Old 08-16-2014, 04:28 PM   #24
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Originally Posted by calinkaos View Post
I assume its like ACD174's set up, or at least sounds similar enough, would the button be able to be place in the original key ignition location as he did?

http://www.camaro5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=153796
From what I could gather from that initial post from ACD174 in 2011, they installed an earlier version of the same kit. Although they hooked it to a Viper alarm system, apparently, and the current Advanced Keys kit has alarm functionality built in.

To put the button where the original ignition used to be, you'd need to remove/relocate the original key ignition somewhere. It's a large metal piece which I didn't look into how to remove. It's also not recommended by Advanced Keys because unless you do it right, you could lose key functionality altogether and not have a backup way to start the car. Up to whoever installs it though.
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Old 08-16-2014, 04:29 PM   #25
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How does remote start work on a manual transmission?
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