'14 AGM 1SS/1LE Track build [COTW 11/17/14]

[X25]

WOW this is my lucky day!

I found a take-off caliper on eBay, like new at 20 miles from a Camaro SS 1LE, and it's driver side rear! It cost $299. Phew!




Now, back to the diff install:

• I started working on removing the pumpkin tonight, and started by removing the exhaust (which I had to cut since it was one piece), and draining all the oils: engine, transmission, and diff.
• Engine and transmission oils looked fine, and especially the transmission oil looked like new, clear red.
• The diff fluid was dirty, but more importantly, the magnetic drain plug had a thick butter-like metal build-up. I have already cleaned such build-up back when I replaced the diff fluid in the beginning of the season, so it's clearly wearing out. I am pretty excited to be replacing the diff!
• The diff cooler's instructions call for removing both rear hubs; it is overkill. I am following Pfadt's bushing instructions, for which you have to remove the pumpkin, too.
• I stopped today when I discovered the brake caliper damage, but I should be able to get done with it this weekend, and plan to give the pumpkin to the differential shop on Monday, so they can change its internals.

[STONE SS]

Originally Posted by X25

WOW this is my lucky day!

I found a take-off caliper on eBay, like new at 20 miles from a Camaro SS 1LE, and it's driver side rear! It cost $299. Phew!




Now, back to the diff install:

• I started working on removing the pumpkin tonight, and started by removing the exhaust (which I had to cut since it was one piece), and draining all the oils: engine, transmission, and diff.
• Engine and transmission oils looked fine, and especially the transmission oil looked like new, clear red.
• The diff fluid was dirty, but more importantly, the magnetic drain plug had a thick butter-like metal build-up. I have already cleaned such build-up back when I replaced the diff fluid in the beginning of the season, so it's clearly wearing out. I am pretty excited to be replacing the diff!
• The diff cooler's instructions call for removing both rear hubs; it is overkill. I am following Pfadt's bushing instructions, for which you have to remove the pumpkin, too.
• I stopped today when I discovered the brake caliper damage, but I should be able to get done with it this weekend, and plan to give the pumpkin to the differential shop on Monday, so they can change its internals.

That was a lucky find on ebay! Glad you found this issue before anything serious happened! I can't imagine what kind of damage could happen while on track if that let go, the line broke, etc.

[Dropspeed]

Originally Posted by X25

• SS calipers are obviously the best bang for the buck. I already have a ton of rotors, pads, etc. for them as well. It also looks fairly easy to paint them red and put decals for a symmetrical look. This is what I am leaning towards as of this moment..

I know you found a replacement...but for others or future issues here are my Silver CTS-V rear calipers painted red with the VHT Caliper paint. You bake them in the oven for an hour after painting @ 200F. I applied the stickers after they were cooked, but still warm. They still look great after 2 track events with a Hawk DTC-30 pad

[White_SS/RS]

Good thing you found that! And your replacement caliper! Could you imagine coming down Valkyrie hill and that failing! I've seen these calipers apart and the metal is solid throught that area. With that and the cross bolts running throught it, it is most likely fine, although its probably created a stress riser. I wouldn't blame you for tossing it either.

I agree that the backs are under utilized. With the weight shift these cars see under heavy braking I can understand they reduced the bias or we'ed be locking up the rears all the time. None the less once you increase the spring rate some of that weight transfer goes away. Wish it was adjustable.

[Mgizzle]

This is why I marked every bolt on my suspensions and brakes so I can inspect every chance I get. You can check almost every critical bolt with a mirror and a light withiout removing wheels.

[X25]

This issue actually happened to a Miata forum member with a very similar setup as mine (Wilwood BBK on a 2013 Miata), and it caused him to run into an accident at the track, too, damaging the front passenger fender, hub, wheel, and the caliper of course.

He started using wedge-lock washers:




These washers NEVER let the bolt come off, and you can say good-bye to having to torque-to-yield; much less torque would be enough.

I didn't buy these at the time since I thought they were expensive, but seeing how they would prevent any of this, perhaps they are worth using in key locations.

[X25]

Originally Posted by X25

This issue actually happened to a Miata forum member with a very similar setup as mine (Wilwood BBK on a 2013 Miata), and it caused him to run into an accident at the track, too, damaging the front passenger fender, hub, wheel, and the caliper of course.

He started using wedge-lock washers:


These washers NEVER let the bolt come off, and you can say good-bye to having to torque-to-yield; much less torque would be enough.

I didn't buy these at the time since I thought they were expensive, but seeing how they would prevent any of this, perhaps they are worth using in key locations.

Just ordered 20-packs of sizes M4, M6, M8, M10, M14. 1 pack is usually around $25. I will definitely use them at caliper bolts of my track cars, or wherever I feel could get loose with vibrations, etc.

[X25]

Originally Posted by Dropspeed

I know you found a replacement...but for others or future issues here are my Silver CTS-V rear calipers painted red with the VHT Caliper paint. You bake them in the oven for an hour after painting @ 200F. I applied the stickers after they were cooked, but still warm. They still look great after 2 track events with a Hawk DTC-30 pad

Did you put any clear coat on it, once you're done painting and installing the decals? After watching enough of "How do they do it?" episodes, I think I'm very much into clear coats and lacquer wherever they apply : )

Originally Posted by White_SS/RS

Good thing you found that! And your replacement caliper! Could you imagine coming down Valkyrie hill and that failing! I've seen these calipers apart and the metal is solid throught that area. With that and the cross bolts running throught it, it is most likely fine, although its probably created a stress riser. I wouldn't blame you for tossing it either.

I agree that the backs are under utilized. With the weight shift these cars see under heavy braking I can understand they reduced the bias or we'ed be locking up the rears all the time. None the less once you increase the spring rate some of that weight transfer goes away. Wish it was adjustable.

Yeah, if it was anything that doesn't compromise safety if/when it fails, I'd not change it. The rear brakes are usually under-utilized in most cars. One exception is rear-engined cars like Porsche 911s, but there are not many other cars around. I think Z/28 suspension lets you use more of it, too, but the difference seems to be marginal. I did not see any visible change in the rate of wear of pads at the rear, though they seem to get hot, judging fromt he color change on the clear coat of the rear calipers.

[Gruby2k]

Originally Posted by Dropspeed

I know you found a replacement...but for others or future issues here are my Silver CTS-V rear calipers painted red with the VHT Caliper paint. You bake them in the oven for an hour after painting @ 200F. I applied the stickers after they were cooked, but still warm. They still look great after 2 track events with a Hawk DTC-30 pad

Good info on the brakes, they look great. I'm about to start work on my 6 pot front calipers that are currently yellow and I have a couple questions. What did you use or what did you do to prep the surface before painting them? Secondly, if I wait until the wife is gone to bake these in the oven, is she gonna find out?

[Gruby2k]

Originally Posted by X25

Just ordered 20-packs of sizes M4, M6, M8, M10, M14. 1 pack is usually around $25. I will definitely use them at caliper bolts of my track cars, or wherever I feel could get loose with vibrations, etc.

Since I change out my rotors and pads before a track event and always reuse the bolts, I think I'm gonna learn from what happened to your rear brake and consider myself lucky. Where did you get your lock washers from, every where I look they seem to only be selling boxes of 100 or more.

[AG1LE]

Originally Posted by Gruby2k

...Where did you get your lock washers from...

+1

[Stephen12ZL1]

http://heico-lock.us/products/

[X25]

Originally Posted by Gruby2k

Since I change out my rotors and pads before a track event and always reuse the bolts, I think I'm gonna learn from what happened to your rear brake and consider myself lucky. Where did you get your lock washers from, every where I look they seem to only be selling boxes of 100 or more.

Originally Posted by AG1LE

+1

I bought all of these below:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...ilpage_o00_s00

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...ilpage_o00_s00

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...ilpage_o00_s00

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...ilpage_o00_s00

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00..._detailpages00

[X25]

I am about to get these from a forum member who no longer needs them:






I intend to use these with this harness: Profi II ASM.


Last time I was at the track, I was not very comfortable with the Rally 3 ASM. It doesn't hook up and tie up like a racing harness. This one is, and I think it might just work.

Now, the question is if I should use these with the Recaro seat or if I should get a full racing seat:

• Try it with the Recaro seat.
• OR, try it with race seat:
  • Get an extra seat wiring harness (22752487) for $51 to modify and add a resistor for the airbags.
  • Get planted seat bracket. Modify it (indent the rear brace downwards to let a low clearance seat in).
  • Get Planted's sliders and aluminum side mounts (half the weight).
  • Get Marrad LX1 seat for 2"+ extra headroom WITH SLIDERS.

Did any of you guys try Recaro seats with a harness bar like this and real harness? How was it?