06-09-2019, 09:41 AM | #15 |
Most automotive A/C is designed to lower the temperature by approximately 30°. So if the ambient temperature is 90° your A/C is going to blow at approximately 60°.
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06-09-2019, 10:50 AM | #16 |
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Well that is generally speaking yes 30 TD but look at it like this lets say on a 90 degree day start the car then turn on the AC on RECIRC. The air in the car @ 90 starts to get cycled through the evaporator at a certain rate depending on fan speed and evap area. Within mins the cycled air temp is constantly dropping so eventually the air coming out of the vents SHOULD after some time depending on fan speed and evap area get down into the 40-45 degrees coming out the vents. Because you are no longer cycling 90 d air but 70 or 60 degree air. BUT <theres always a but... If you are adding heat to air from the heater core always having hot coolant going through it it may raise the vent temps from 10 to 30 degrees who knows it just depends how much heat soak is constantly going on.
I already know my temps are at least 30 degrees off with the system set to vent. So 60 degree ambient air is entering the system but 80 degree air exits at the vents. With the heater core water supply blocked off I can get the air coming out of the vents down to 38 degrees with recirc on a 80 degree day.<hottest its bean here so far. |
06-09-2019, 11:11 AM | #17 |
When they reference temperature they are talking about ambient temperature (outside the vehicle) and the temp inside the car. If it is 90° outside and 60° in the car (or lower) your A/C is working perfectly fine.
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06-09-2019, 11:30 AM | #18 |
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Your car has issues ‘cause like other FL members said, even here it works great.
You have to run it on “recirculating” or it’ll never cool. My car is a ‘14 w/34K miles never any AC issues. PS: I’ve never used the heater. Heated seat yes but rare |
06-09-2019, 11:59 AM | #19 |
Mobile, Al. baking hot in summer, mines black on black. Leave car for 15 mins and it's oppressively hot. Cools down quickly though so I'm agreeing w/others about blend door maybe getting hung up.
The 6th gens have a problem w/the defrost. I've had 3 different 6th gen loaners and all 3 have a trickle of ac constantly from the defrost regardless of vent setting. After 1/2 an hr or so on any mild to hot day the outside of the windshield begins to condensate and you have to hit wipers. I'd have to tap wipers every 3 or 4 mins non stop on a clear day. That's a deal breaker for me on owning a 6th. I'm assuming they've addressed this issue but I don't know.
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06-09-2019, 01:42 PM | #20 |
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Blend door works but who knows if it closes completely. Almost impossible to tell. The heater shut off valve will solve it so its no BIG WHooP.... lmao
I still thing its heat soak because if you drive far enough the vent air cools down close to ambient but takes 20-30 miles. |
06-09-2019, 01:50 PM | #21 | |
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Quote:
I've done ALOT of AC work over the years, both Auto and Commercial. |
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06-09-2019, 04:10 PM | #22 | |
Quote:
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06-09-2019, 09:55 PM | #23 |
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Is there a way you can look under the dash to see if the blend door is operating properly? When I have the vent on, the air coming out is almost the same as ambient.
Installing a pusher fan in front of the condensor will make it work better too. |
06-09-2019, 10:23 PM | #24 |
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Yeah spend 2500 dollars at the dealer to remove ever thing including the windshield, its buried! You can remove the actuator and see the very end where the actuator engages it. Doesn't tell you squat, I have a good solution, water valve along with a manual cable......like 50 years ago HAHAHAHAHAHA so much for progress...
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06-09-2019, 11:09 PM | #25 |
Drives: 2014 2SS/RS Join Date: Dec 2014
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When i first bought my Camaro, noticed there was no shutoff valve on the inlet to the heater core like all other GM/Ford/Dodge vehicles I've owned. Made a thread about it.
There are two likely reasons for Camaro not having heater core water shutoff valve ... 1) to cut production cost 2) keeping a constant flow through the heater core long aluminum inlet and outlet piping and core itself, gives extra engine cooling on our relatively mamouth high hp engines. Also noticed the gas filler door has a fitting for a lock pin to slide into, yet it does not have a solenoid or mechanism to actually lock the filler door, another example of cost savings. On the plus side ... Here in NC, if I get stuck in summer beach traffic, and turn the rarely used A/C on, it forces the radiator/condenser fans on -- lowering coolant temperature from 224 degrees down to 200 very quickly, now that is impressive! OP, i am interested in reading about the results you get after the shutoff is installed. Some valves are a bypass type that re-route the coolant skipping the heater core not altering the flow rate from the water pump. The bypass type valve i was considering would still act as an auxiliary way to radiate heat; using the long aluminum tubes running out to the heater core and back, just taking the core itself out of the water flow circuit.
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Last edited by ron123; 06-09-2019 at 11:32 PM. |
06-10-2019, 04:10 AM | #26 |
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06-10-2019, 06:33 AM | #27 |
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06-10-2019, 06:45 AM | #28 | |
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Quote:
We went on a 200 mile trip yesterday, on the way back it was in the 50's but we had the AC on because it was warm in the car. Every time I put it to vent the air was warm. I forgot I had it set on vent-recirc so no outside air was coming in. Was just getting heat soaked inside air from the heater core. Turning off recirc finally the vent air cooled off close to outside temps but it took a good 10-20 miles. |
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