08-20-2013, 02:21 PM | #15 |
BL1ZZRD
Drives: '16 Camaro 2SS, '20 Equinox Redline Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Buffalo, NY
Posts: 7,840
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I had loose starter bolts (f'in dealer loser mechanics) which was causing false knock! The starter is right next to the knock sensor!
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08-21-2013, 10:25 AM | #16 |
Drives: 2017 Z06 / 2012 CTS Join Date: Jul 2013
Location: NY
Posts: 731
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Great info!
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Procharged Powered 2017 Z06 |
08-21-2013, 12:58 PM | #17 |
Drives: 13' 1LE Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Canada
Posts: 2,643
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Nice thread!
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13' 1LE
Old setup: TSP 231-236/Tick 660/.105 PR, UDP, SW LT 2'' & HFC, stock NPP & H pipe, VR-DRX CAI, air scoop, Goertz1 manifold, 102mm BBK, 26" Toyo DRs, Forgestars R17x10 & F18x8, rear seat delete, remote Pat G tune Autocal, 7400 limiter, Spec Mini Twin. 91oct. 11.90@122.3, 0-60ft 2.0 / 11.99@123.6, 0-60ft 2.1 DA+819 ...519RWHP SAE Solid roller SBE LS3, FED, LLSR, 91oct, 605rwhp N/A. Tuned by Pat G. Build by me. |
08-21-2013, 02:19 PM | #18 |
Drives: 2012 LS3 2SS/RS Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: Baton Rouge, LA
Posts: 492
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Some people just want cheapest, and fastest done with the biggest numbers and just dont get it. Well PUT!
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Build Thread--> http://www.camaro5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=328966
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08-21-2013, 03:03 PM | #19 |
Drives: 2010 2SS Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: Corpus Christi TX
Posts: 634
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A dyno is a tuning tool, nothing more.
Dont ever get caught up with dyno #'s; Ive seen 300 HP cars run 11's and 1000hp cars run mid tens. OP put it very well: 'Onto Dynoing a car. It has been said a dyno is nothing more than a tuning tool, which is true, but it is also a selling tool. After all, you to need to be able able to offer customers a reason to buy a product from your company. Good results from the dyno are always a good start. As car guys we always measure our cars by how much power they have...We need 1hp more than our buddies car!!!!'
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08-21-2013, 03:14 PM | #20 |
Drives: 2011 Camaro SS Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: Bradenton, FL
Posts: 2,610
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Shawn's quite right in this aspect too. We are 100*+ in our dyno shop by early afternoon. Once the temps get that high, every car that I dyno the IAT's are way too high on for boost. So we usually see the IAT timing pull upstairs, which I will not pull out jut to try to make a number. We always put cars back on the street after the dyno, so then I go back out on street and dial in the upper portion of the RPM if the car must leave that day. If I can, I try to dyno any boost car as early as possible in morning or late as possible at night. Past that during the day the ambient is just too much to fight even with $1500+ worth of fans in front of the dyno, and one of them being an evaporation cooler unit.
Case in point just did a FSP stage 3 package on a ZL1 dyno'd Saturday that made 6xx rwtq at 4100rpms, and 590rwhp at 5400rpms, after that it tanked. So took it on the street, finalized the tune. Unfortunately I was not able to give that client his dyno numbers that day but we are having him come back in next week as early as possible. Had an EForce on Friday at 4PM that made 499rwtq and 480rwhp because it pulled timing after 5500rpms... Dyno number is a dyno number, my job is to make sure the tune is on point. We can always dyno the car early or late, or wait another 2 months till this weather dies down. Definitely did not have this many problems up north, oh well |
08-21-2013, 03:17 PM | #21 | |
Drives: 2011 Camaro SS Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: Bradenton, FL
Posts: 2,610
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Quote:
Like Rhino said its on a per application basis, you will have to tone down some of the KR stuff on some cars, but NEVER take it out. I see time and time again people that have no clue what they are doing with the knock threshold tables. I've seen thresholds lowered in table that would actually induce more knock (Since its crossing the threshold), and then I see in decay rate/fast attack tables them killing those values to compensate for them making the KR thresholds improper. - Matt |
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08-21-2013, 03:26 PM | #22 |
Drives: 2011ss/rs camaro Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: florida
Posts: 1,261
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Will a engine tuned on a crisp winters day with low temps and humidity function the same as On a hot and humid summers day and vice versa?is it better to have the engine tuned the winter or summer. Or does it matter?.....is the tune given an engine optimum 365?
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08-21-2013, 05:50 PM | #23 | |
Account Suspended
Drives: 2014 SS Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Haslet, TX
Posts: 744
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Quote:
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07-02-2015, 06:09 PM | #24 |
Drives: LSx Performance Specialist Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Lafayette, LA
Posts: 517
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ttt
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07-02-2015, 06:37 PM | #25 |
Account Suspended
Drives: 2011 2SS/ RS INFERNO ORANGE L99 Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: Alliston Ontario Canada
Posts: 9,057
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Just read your original thread. I had my car tuned in May....360 rwhp and 395 torque. I thought that was a little low with my mods. I'm no tuner by any means. My tuner told me not to be hung up on numbers. Take your car,drive it and see how you like it. If I had any concerns he would work with me. Turns out the car runs great. I attended a drag racing event the next weekend that I had went to the year before without my tune. I was happy with the car already,one pass was all I needed to understand how much better the car was. Thanks for the info.
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