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Old 05-21-2014, 10:39 AM   #15
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Here's a pic...I'm guessing the '14 Z/28 is still the same with the seat removed....It's only attached in a few places....takes ten minutes to install...
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Old 05-21-2014, 10:48 AM   #16
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Well the $1500 ones will most likely have fail-safe computer tech in the battery to prevent full discharge, low/overvoltage, shorts, etc. Call lithium pros and they'll explain everything to you, as a lot of the tech is beyond me. LOL. from what I have seen, they have the most tech, and highest size/weight ratio... i.e. they are very light
Another choice, the folks I've used, is Lithionics: http://www.lithionicsbattery.com/auto.html

I spec the wireless (key-fob) "Never-Die" option as well.

"Our NEVER-DIE™ system, internal to the battery case, places an unused vehicle battery into 'sleep mode', with a reserve energy preserved sufficient to provide 2 to 3 restarts after the battery is reactivated. We offer various remote-controlled user interfaces to 'wake' the battery up."

So I save 30 lbs (the LiON battery weighs approx 10-11 lbs) and never have to worry about my lap timer or data recording system sucking the battery dry because I forgot to turn it off.
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Old 05-21-2014, 10:49 AM   #17
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Here's a pic...I'm guessing the '14 Z/28 is still the same with the seat removed....It's only attached in a few places....takes ten minutes to install...
Love those seats!

Can someone with a Z/28 confirm/deny this is now it looks as well?
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Old 05-21-2014, 10:50 AM   #18
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Love the ideas!. However, I am under the impression non-glass (lexan/polycarbonate) windows are not street legal in the US? Am I wrong?

What would a drive shaft cost? Weight savings?
Well IDK... Some say they are some say they aren't. I haven't cared enough to look in the lawbook. I do know they are MUCH more (200x) crack resistant


$1400 for the DS. they also have aluminum for cheaper but slightly less weight saving. Lots of info out there on 1-piece vs 2-piece DS.. Here is a nice writeupp on CF DS tech
http://www.camaro5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=131502

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Here's a pic...I'm guessing the '14 Z/28 is still the same with the seat removed....It's only attached in a few places....takes ten minutes to install...
OK man... If your removing the rear seat, you GOTTA lose the trunk mat too!! that thing is like 20 lbs!!
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Old 05-21-2014, 11:00 AM   #19
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$1400 for the DS. they also have aluminum for cheaper but slightly less weight saving. Lots of info out there on 1-piece vs 2-piece DS.. Here is a nice writeupp on CF DS tech
http://www.camaro5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=131502
Thanks for the link to educational thread on the carbon shafts! Good stuff. I'm surprised the weight loss is "so" small? 3-4 lbs. It's certainly pretty stuff and I get the rotational mass reduction benefits, but I'm going to have to stew on that one as it's not immediately reaching out to grab me? Maybe I'm missing something?
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Old 05-21-2014, 11:06 AM   #20
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OK man... If your removing the rear seat, you GOTTA lose the trunk mat too!! that thing is like 20 lbs!!
It's out for sure...lol....as well as the thin felt piece underneath.....I noticed on the Z/28 pics they still have the battery/"spare" cover piece....That could come out on track days, also.....
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Old 05-21-2014, 11:14 AM   #21
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Thanks for the link to educational thread on the carbon shafts! Good stuff. I'm surprised the weight loss is "so" small? 3-4 lbs. It's certainly pretty stuff and I get the rotational mass reduction benefits, but I'm going to have to stew on that one as it's not immediately reaching out to grab me? Maybe I'm missing something?
All of the weight is in the joints. Most guys get them for the strength it offers and to reduce the driveline slop. It is one of those things that will make the car feel lighter during acceleration. There is aluminum as well for 800 (?). They are also supposed to be more efficient (less drivetrain hp loss). Doc (user on here) has a great build thread and I remember he gained some ponies to the rear wheel after swapping out the DS
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Old 05-21-2014, 11:22 AM   #22
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This will feel really odd for me. With the truck, we always had to ADD weight, not remove it. Do you have any idea how brutal loading a truck with 2000lb of sand bags by hand is?

Need some helium anti-ballast balloons.
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Old 05-21-2014, 11:23 AM   #23
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lose a few lbs yourself....
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Old 05-21-2014, 11:27 AM   #24
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All of the weight is in the joints. Most guys get them for the strength it offers and to reduce the driveline slop. It is one of those things that will make the car feel lighter during acceleration. There is aluminum as well for 800 (?). They are also supposed to be more efficient (less drivetrain hp loss). Doc (user on here) has a great build thread and I remember he gained some ponies to the rear wheel after swapping out the DS
Gotcha, thanks for the amplification. All your points make perfect sense (of course ).

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lose a few lbs yourself....
That's a fact! A month of Soylent should do it eh?
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Old 05-21-2014, 11:44 AM   #25
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lose a few lbs yourself....
This is my goal, to make up for adding the A/C and extra speakers. Maybe I should just pull the extra speakers so that I only have to lose 20+ pounds instead of 30+???
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Old 05-21-2014, 11:49 AM   #26
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If you are determined, you can make the headers back titanium with SuperTrapps for under $1000, materials and labor, and be lighter than any aftermarket systems, and sound level adjustable. However, removing weight from under the CG point is the lowest priority.

#1 - Wheel Tire weight. This affects acceleration and braking out of proportion to actual weight loss. ie - 1lb acts like 2lb.
#2 - Corner weight. Getting mass out of the corners improves handling.
#3 - Weight above CG. Lowers CG.
#4 - Weight at CG. 1lb=1lb for performance.
And last, weight under CG, which is the only weight where 1lb is less.

But you must want it.
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Old 05-21-2014, 12:27 PM   #27
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If you are determined, you can make the headers back titanium with SuperTrapps for under $1000, materials and labor, and be lighter than any aftermarket systems, and sound level adjustable. However, removing weight from under the CG point is the lowest priority.

#1 - Wheel Tire weight. This affects acceleration and braking out of proportion to actual weight loss. ie - 1lb acts like 2lb.
#2 - Corner weight. Getting mass out of the corners improves handling.
#3 - Weight above CG. Lowers CG.
#4 - Weight at CG. 1lb=1lb for performance.
And last, weight under CG, which is the only weight where 1lb is less.

But you must want it.
I just want my car . . . .
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Old 05-21-2014, 12:28 PM   #28
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You and me both brother. :-(
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