Front Fascia with APR and Shark Tooth - Page 2 - Camaro5 Chevy Camaro Forum / Camaro ZL1, SS and V6 Forums

spadz93 · 05-15-2016, 01:00 AM

where do the support rods connect to up top?

hesster · 05-15-2016, 06:55 AM

It is important that they mount to some structural member, and I felt the strongest portion of the fascia assembly was the bumper support brace bracket. It is somewhat flexible, but rigid when mounted over the steel bumper beam. The Inner Rod upper clevis attach at the (2) points circled in red, this is INSIDE where the steel bumper beam nests and would fully seat inside the fascia bumper support brace (won't hit the bottom of the steel bumper beam as you slide and reinstall the Fascia). Note the washer, nut, and then the bolt threads point UP as shipped on the part. Outer attachments not shown, but the area is circled on the left. This attachment required a mod - I flipped the bolt in the clevis around, added some small spacers on the underside of the lip onto the bolt shank so the clevis would still rotate, and put the nut inside the clevis. So the thin washer and bolt head WILL protrude into the beam bracket opening, but I then ground a bevil on the bolt head so it would slide over the bumper beam. And it did with no problem, as there is some flex in the bracket beam.
I elected to use Ulincos U22A4 push button switchs - they are first rate 6 pin 1NO1NC and are illuminated when engaged. One controls the White Fog and Halo option, and the other the Amber/Green option. The wiring was difficult to figure out, but got it finally. I used the pin blade in the fuse panel (there is only one blade in the fuse panel at the upper left of all the fuses) to power them, and this supplies power even with the car off so you can turn the lights on any time. The other option is to splice into one of the (2) 20a fuses if you want power only when the car is keyed on, as these (2) fuses are the only one's NOT hot all the time. I used these for my Boost gauge.

05-15-2016, 01:00 AM	#15
spadz93 BUMBL Z Drives: 2015 ZL1 Join Date: Nov 2013 Location: Northern NJ Posts: 2,577 View My Garage	where do the support rods connect to up top? __________________ Sold: 2015 ZL1 M6, Rotofab Intake, LS3 throttle body, 2.55 Upper/9.17 Lower, Custom Camshaft, DMS Reinforced Brick, ID1050X, 1 7/8" Headers, ProSpeed HX/Reservoir, DSX Aux Pump/Flex Fuel Sensor, E85, McLeod RXT, BMR 1" Drop, 680rw 93/750rw E85, Tuned by CSP Sold: 2010 2SS, some bolt ons, 415rwhp/400rwtq

05-15-2016, 06:55 AM	#16
hesster Drives: '10 C5 SS, '77 Bandit T/A Join Date: Dec 2015 Location: Michigan Posts: 710 View My Garage	It is important that they mount to some structural member, and I felt the strongest portion of the fascia assembly was the bumper support brace bracket. It is somewhat flexible, but rigid when mounted over the steel bumper beam. The Inner Rod upper clevis attach at the (2) points circled in red, this is INSIDE where the steel bumper beam nests and would fully seat inside the fascia bumper support brace (won't hit the bottom of the steel bumper beam as you slide and reinstall the Fascia). Note the washer, nut, and then the bolt threads point UP as shipped on the part. Outer attachments not shown, but the area is circled on the left. This attachment required a mod - I flipped the bolt in the clevis around, added some small spacers on the underside of the lip onto the bolt shank so the clevis would still rotate, and put the nut inside the clevis. So the thin washer and bolt head WILL protrude into the beam bracket opening, but I then ground a bevil on the bolt head so it would slide over the bumper beam. And it did with no problem, as there is some flex in the bracket beam. I elected to use Ulincos U22A4 push button switchs - they are first rate 6 pin 1NO1NC and are illuminated when engaged. One controls the White Fog and Halo option, and the other the Amber/Green option. The wiring was difficult to figure out, but got it finally. I used the pin blade in the fuse panel (there is only one blade in the fuse panel at the upper left of all the fuses) to power them, and this supplies power even with the car off so you can turn the lights on any time. The other option is to splice into one of the (2) 20a fuses if you want power only when the car is keyed on, as these (2) fuses are the only one's NOT hot all the time. I used these for my Boost gauge.