03-23-2020, 12:27 PM | #15 | |
Drives: LT W/2LT,blue metallic Join Date: Jul 2016
Location: central florida
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03-23-2020, 01:16 PM | #16 |
Drives: 2010 Camaro SS/RS Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: somewhere in MD
Posts: 4,883
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So don’t go set it to ‘Max Cold’. Put it on the click before max cold and then click the recirculation button?
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2010 2SS/RS
Z/28 intake, NW, FAST 102, speed engineering LT's, some exhaust, ATI -10% pulley, GM flex fuel injectors, DSX flex fuel sensor, MGW shifter, HP Tuners, some suspension work, stickers and a little weight loss. 12.63 @113.53 |
03-23-2020, 01:26 PM | #17 |
It don’t come easy.
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Go to post #12 in this thread for a picture.
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03-23-2020, 02:45 PM | #18 |
Drives: 2010 Camaro SS/RS Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: somewhere in MD
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Could’ve just said yes, but thanks
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2010 2SS/RS
Z/28 intake, NW, FAST 102, speed engineering LT's, some exhaust, ATI -10% pulley, GM flex fuel injectors, DSX flex fuel sensor, MGW shifter, HP Tuners, some suspension work, stickers and a little weight loss. 12.63 @113.53 |
03-23-2020, 04:24 PM | #19 |
It don’t come easy.
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Well, it’s not the click from max cold but, 2 clicks from the blue dot. That’s why I offered looking at the pic.
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03-23-2020, 04:33 PM | #20 | |
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and the motor torquing it, stop 2-3 clicks before the blue DOT. TO get your precise location: https://youtu.be/o2_8GUz1RMA Bear with it... You can do that to see when your motor starts to twist. Back off so it goes straight, then mark your bezel for the stop mark. |
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03-23-2020, 05:23 PM | #21 | |
Drives: ABM #93 Join Date: Oct 2018
Location: Lotaburger
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Quote:
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ABM #2399 2SS/RS:SOLD
ABM #93 2SS/RS Black Rally stripes, Titanium Interior 4,000 miles: GM GFX side skirts and diffuser waiting on paint, GM dovetail, GM heritage, RPI ZL1 style splitter. ‘87 IROC-Z Iroc blue. all original unmolested with 50K miles. |
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03-24-2020, 06:14 AM | #22 |
Drives: 10 2ss/rs Join Date: Jul 2018
Location: Shelby ny
Posts: 436
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Heater treater needs to get into the camaro game with their blend doors
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[/SIGPIC]10 2ss ls3 sw long tubes,cai intake,phastek scoop,se3" exhaust,elite e2, bw stg2tb, tsp f35, motive 4.10 lpw cover, 15" conversion, 510whp tuned by john donovan
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03-24-2020, 02:40 PM | #23 | |
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farther, but the motor KEEPS GOING as you progress the dial to the blue dot. You're at MAX before you even hit the BLUE DOT in the first place. If you relocated the blue dot two marks before where it is now, then what? You're at MAX there anyway. There is no heat blended, the DOOR has gone as far as it's going to go well before you dial to the blue dot. The door cannot physically go any farther, it's HARD STOPPED against the heater core. This is why they break, the door hits the barrier, and the motor keeps twisting on it as you turn it into the blue. SO, you use that video to see where your door hits the HARD stop, back off till the motor assembly straitens out, then mark it on your bezel. |
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03-24-2020, 04:02 PM | #24 | |
Drives: ABM #93 Join Date: Oct 2018
Location: Lotaburger
Posts: 2,716
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Quote:
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ABM #2399 2SS/RS:SOLD
ABM #93 2SS/RS Black Rally stripes, Titanium Interior 4,000 miles: GM GFX side skirts and diffuser waiting on paint, GM dovetail, GM heritage, RPI ZL1 style splitter. ‘87 IROC-Z Iroc blue. all original unmolested with 50K miles. |
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03-24-2020, 05:25 PM | #25 | |
It don’t come easy.
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Quote:
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03-24-2020, 06:08 PM | #26 |
Drives: ABM #93 Join Date: Oct 2018
Location: Lotaburger
Posts: 2,716
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Also as a side note the blue dot is not max ac. If you go one click past the blue do where it says max ac, that’s max ac... the blue dot is the coldest setting on the dial but will not turn on the recirc that is required for max ac.
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ABM #2399 2SS/RS:SOLD
ABM #93 2SS/RS Black Rally stripes, Titanium Interior 4,000 miles: GM GFX side skirts and diffuser waiting on paint, GM dovetail, GM heritage, RPI ZL1 style splitter. ‘87 IROC-Z Iroc blue. all original unmolested with 50K miles. |
03-24-2020, 06:40 PM | #27 |
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Yep, and the problem is, the door has hard stopped even before the blue dot.
So, going farther, twists on the door even more. It's some bad calibration issue, there is more travel in the knob than the door can move. They all suffer this problem. I see what he was saying, you won't get it to go RECIRC automatically because you stopped well before the "max" setting. Well, there is a RECIRC button you can press. I never use recirc anyway, no fresh air. @ MAX A/C, the blend door is already stopped, the MAX is just closing the outside intake door, re-circulation for cooling air in the cabin, which will get cooler and cooler rather than cooling the same temperature air from outside. I read in this forum that when you start the car, the actuator cycles to it's internal stop COLD, then goes back to the dial setting. So, according to that thread, your door gets twisted every time you key on. |
03-25-2020, 09:17 AM | #28 |
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Drives: 2015 Camaro Join Date: Aug 2018
Location: My Garage
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Yeah, if the door cycles everytime you start the car, then all of this before the blue dot technique stuff will not work. That's probably the real culprit. If the door cycles every time you start the car, that's where the real damage comes from. It's just too much wear on a cheaply designed badly engineered part.
They should have reinforced the areas prone to rotational stress on the blend door with metal. |
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Tags |
actuator, air conditioner repair, door bend, lawsuit, problem |
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