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Old 05-24-2013, 03:23 PM   #29
Jims Mongoose
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I replied before it did not post

I did not use another fuse. Line is already fused.
If you do fuse, I would think for LEDs you
Would not need more than 5 Amps. If you
Run more than foot wells them go 10 amps.
You can ask manufacturer of LEDs.
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Old 05-24-2013, 04:33 PM   #30
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A 1 AMP fuse would be plenty for footwells X2. You can look at the packaging that comes with them to see what their draw is, it's not much.
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Old 05-24-2013, 05:49 PM   #31
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I read through this all and I am still a little lost. I ordered blue footwells from AAC and they are being shipped as we speak. Hoping to install next weekend. What all will I need to go out and buy before I can install assuming I have nothing "around my garage"?

I just want them to come on and off with dome, but also have opportunity to turn them on and off myself.
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Old 05-25-2013, 10:20 AM   #32
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Link to Install the footwell lighting

2013BlackLS.

Hello. The link that I am including here is to another thread and post. It is the
Instructions that I followed to install mine. He gives several options that will allow you to hook up the lights and have them come on and stay on or not etc. The way I did mine the footwell lights come on when I open the drivers door. They stay on when the engine is on and as long as the interior ambient lighting is on. So while you are driving they are on. If you want the option to shut them off, just put a switch in the power line that he talks about and mount it where you like.

http://www.camaro5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=154593
If you cant' click on this link just paste it in your browser address bar and hit enter.

The gentlemen whose post I'm referring to is 'The Stig' he gives you several options to follow.

He talks about taking off the console top where the shift lever is and the gauges. Be careful and it will come off cleanly. Be careful not to scratch it when taking it off and putting it on.

Good luck
Jim
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Old 11-05-2013, 02:26 AM   #33
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Oznium.com for great products!
Their cold cathode kits are BRRRIIIIGHT!
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Old 11-11-2013, 06:31 AM   #34
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How do I remove the cover on the passengers side to get to the grey wires for the dome light. I also want to install a switch and need to remove the trim on the drivers side by the cup holder.

Thanks
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Old 11-11-2013, 01:54 PM   #35
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Not sure what you mean

Quote:
Originally Posted by paulwright11 View Post
How do I remove the cover on the passengers side to get to the grey wires for the dome light. I also want to install a switch and need to remove the trim on the drivers side by the cup holder.

Thanks
If you are referring to the plastic side panels that are on both sides of the console then here is what I did.

Each one of those panels ends under the dash. Find the end and just pull it to the side, in other words towards the door. DO it gently and it will release from the spring clips. Then coming back towards the seat again do the same thing a little at a time till as much of it comes loose as you want it. You can later just snap back in place.

Let me know if you meant something else.

Jim
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Old 11-12-2013, 09:46 PM   #36
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I have read every thread regarding how to wire lighting for interior footwells and for underhood applications. I know where to tap in and run wires. My question might be a little odd but those who have showed their cars in indoor shows might understand.

In most places, when showing a car in an indoor venue, fire regulations usually call for a battery disconnect. the last show I was in, the fire marshall not only disconnect the post under the hood, but also made sure that the battery was disconnected in the trunk.

Now for my question. Would it be hazardous to wire LEDs directly from the battery post in the trunk? Being on a completely separate circuit from the rest of the car I do not worry about shorting out the BCM and the wiring seems pretty straightforward. Would the draw on the battery hold up for hours of LED operation?

I would need constant 12v power even with the battery disconnected in the trunk.

Thoughts?
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