DIY: LS3 Camshaft Install (a lot of pictures, may take a moment to load)

[PQ]

Originally Posted by robertway

Thanks PQ, knowing you did the Maggie install you should be able to work your way through this, especially since there aren't any hose decisions to make . Being you have an L99 I am not sure what else is involved if you are looking to convert to an LS3 when you do the cam, I am sure there are others that can chime in on that but I believe the lifters may have to be swapped as well (requires removing the heads). You may have the opportunity to add to the DIY here to point out any differences for a pure L99 swap or even an L99 to LS3 conversion. Thanks again.....

Right. NO hoses, so spinning wheels. I should be ok. lol

I wonder if I have to replace the oil valley cover? To the LS3 one. I know the LS3 cover can't be used for an L99, but I wonder the opposite.

[PQ]

Originally Posted by robertway

Once the valve seal is seated, it will not come back up on its own at any point. I hope I understand your question correctly. When the spring is installed and decompressed, the valve stem will come all the way back up from where it was resting on the top of the piston but since the valve stem is not "fixed" to the valve seal and slides in and out of it, the seal won't come up with the valve itself and will stay right where you initially seated it with the socket.

Let me know if this clears it up.

So, is it the tighness of the fit that keeps the seal from coming up? Or soes the spring hold it down?

[CamaroSpike23]

Originally Posted by Blown355

!@#$%^&* Why didn't I find this thread last week. I just did a cam install over the weekend on my LS3, and took tons of pics and six pages of notes so I could post out a DIY. I used the LS1 cam install how-to as a guide. But as you know, there are a lot of differences between the to engines.

Once again, great writeup!

you can still post yours up. better to have more information (and possibly, differnt pics and angles) than less.

Originally Posted by PQ

Like some have said and it can't be said enough, WOW. I just got around to reading and watching the whole thing. Fantastic job. Thank you for doing this.

You detailed it in a way that makes me confident that I can do it. More involved than I had initially thought. When I get my cam I'll be all over this thread.

Question. How driveable was it before tuning? And with my maggie, do you think it will be ok to drive to the tuner? May depend on the cam, but say with a semi-aggresive one.

PQ... I'm driving 4 hours or so in a little bit. I'll be calling you. pick up this time.

[robertway]

Originally Posted by PQ

So, is it the tighness of the fit that keeps the seal from coming up? Or soes the spring hold it down?

It is the tightness of the fit of the vlave stem seal on the post/tube/whatever it is called that sticks up out of the head (maybe the valve stem guide ).

By the way, you should change where you are sitting in your signature image every day or so

[Bell040]

Could you furter explain step 42:

Thread the stock camshaft bolt about halfway back into the camshaft, rotate the camshaft by hand several times to get the lifters up and then insert your two 24" long 5/16" wood dowels into the oil journals on both sides of the camshaft to make sure the lifters don't drop when you pull the camshaft out.

Do the lifters just kind of stick in the top position when you rotate the cam because the rockers are disconnected and there is no downforce and the fit is tight enough to keep them up?

Does the dowel push each lifter up even further as it slides through the oil hole? It seems that the lobes on the cam would push the lifters up to a point, but not high enough to get a dowel between the cam and the lifter since the lobes on the cam are smaller than the cam housing circle.

EDIT:

few more questions:

why do you need a new crank bolt? is there a part #? ... I am starting to order parts.

Do you have any guess on the size of the crank bolt needed to push the balancer back in? M16 pitch (1.5 or 2mm) and 3-4 inches? http://www.mcmaster.com/#metric-threaded-rods/=bcjhie or http://www.mcmaster.com/#cap-screws/=bcjrtf

why do you need new pushrods? Is it safe to run stock pushrods? you mention that they need to be measured. do you add the difference in camshaft lift to the length of the stock pushrods?

[robertway]

Originally Posted by Bell040

Could you furter explain step 42:



Do the lifters just kind of stick in the top position when you rotate the cam because the rockers are disconnected and there is no downforce and the fit is tight enough to keep them up?

Does the dowel push each lifter up even further as it slides through the oil hole? It seems that the lobes on the cam would push the lifters up to a point, but not high enough to get a dowel between the cam and the lifter since the lobes on the cam are smaller than the cam housing circle.

Not exactly sure here, I know that the dowel got stuck once or twice and I rotated the cam by hand a few turns and the dowel went all the way in. The lifters will stay up in theory but from what I read the dowels are just an added precaution.

Originally Posted by Bell040

why do you need a new crank bolt? is there a part #? ... I am starting to order parts.

GM Part# 12557840 according to the Lingenfelter web site http://www.lingenfelter.com/mm5/merc...Store_Code=LPE

The crank bolt is a one-time use bolt. When it gets cranked down it gets torqued to a particular foot pount and then an additional number of degrees to "stretch" the bolt. Can you use it again? Sure. Would you want to, not at the risk of screwing up the threads in the crank snout or the bolt coming loose.

Originally Posted by Bell040

Do you have any guess on the size of the crank bolt needed to push the balancer back in? M16 pitch (1.5 or 2mm) and 3-4 inches? http://www.mcmaster.com/#metric-threaded-rods/=bcjhie or http://www.mcmaster.com/#cap-screws/=bcjrtf

Good question, I used the bolt that came with the crank pinnning kit the shop I dealt with uses for their supercharger installs. Not sure of the 1.5 or 2.0mm spec but it is M16 and was about an inch longer than the stock bolt. Sorry I don't have a part number or where the shop sources the pinning kit from.

Originally Posted by Bell040

why do you need new pushrods? Is it safe to run stock pushrods? you mention that they need to be measured. do you add the difference in camshaft lift to the length of the stock pushrods?

Two main reasons, first you are running a much stiffer spring than the stock ones so more stress on the pushrod and if you are going to run to 7000rpms you don't want the pushrod flexing to make sure the valve follows the cam profile correctly. Second, the base circle of the new cam may be different than the stock cam and being that the stock rocker arms are fixed, lifter preload is determined by the pushrod length so a smaller base circle on the cam would cause less lifter preload and possibly not enough to keep the preload within GM specs so you would need a longer pushrod to make up the difference. Even if the base circle diamters were the same, the added stress on the pushrods is enough to warrant an upgrade to hardened ones.

[Bell040]

Thanks Robert... your DIY is awesome!

... maybe someone else can chime in on the dowels holding up the lifters.

EDIT:

LS lifters fit into plastic gloves that permit cam changes without intake removal. Back off the rockers, remove the pushrods, rotate the engine several complete revolutions to kick up the lifters into the glove body...

EDIT #2

from http://www.ls1tech.com/forums/genera...estions-2.html

There is a ledge on the lifter (like shown)



With the rod slid into the oil holes it rest along the lifters between the ledges (as shown below)




So for those doing a swap, that arent as brave as others doing the "spin the cam, then pray" method. The 5/16 rod method is good insurance, that way you dont have to pull your motor if one does fall.

[2010SLVRBULIT]

thinking I should've bought an 8, jus so I can DIY...:..very nice

[PQ]

Originally Posted by robertway

Can you use it again? Sure. Would you want to, not at the risk of screwing up the threads in the crank snout or the bolt coming loose. Or the bolt breaking.....



Good question, I used the bolt that came with the crank pinnning kit the shop I dealt with uses for their supercharger installs. Not sure of the 1.5 or 2.0mm spec but it is M16 and was about an inch longer than the stock bolt. Sorry I don't have a part number or where the shop sources the pinning kit from. Magnuson will sell the pinning kit, not sure the cost though.

In red.


I just went to the dealer. LS3s have been around for a while, L99 is the same as far as this goes so they usually will have them in stock.

[Bell040]

Good question, I used the bolt that came with the crank pinnning kit the shop I dealt with uses for their supercharger installs. Not sure of the 1.5 or 2.0mm spec but it is M16 and was about an inch longer than the stock bolt. Sorry I don't have a part number or where the shop sources the pinning kit from.

from your ls1howto.com article:

Highly Recommended: Longer crankshaft pulley bolt, M16 x 2.0 pitch x 120mm long

[East Coast Supercharging]

Great thread Robert!


Just to stir the pot a little.. the last two Camaro's with our cam, Paxton 1500 kit and meth injection left here with over 800rwhp!

[robertway]

Originally Posted by East Coast Supercharging

Great thread Robert!


Just to stir the pot a little.. the last two Camaro's with our cam, Paxton 1500 kit and meth injection left here with over 800rwhp!

Hey, thanks for helping me remember I don't have the money to do the kit. I could probably sell one of the kids but I would get killed in the divorce that would most definitely come afterward. Believe me, it is on the list, eventually.... in line after some safety, suspension, and track time line items.

[Bell040]

Has anyone used this tool? know where to get it? Any reason it would be better or worse than the OP's? ... looks easier.


also, which Manley springs did you go with Rob?

[robertway]

Originally Posted by Bell040

Has anyone used this tool? know where to get it? Any reason it would be better or worse than the OP's? ... looks easier.


also, which Manley springs did you go with Rob?

I had read somewhere in regard to that tool that it has a tendancy to bend/snap. Don't take my word for it though. And with it not being a fixed piece it could move around on the head and scuff it up. If I were to do it again I would invest in the Crane tool mentioned in the tools list as it compresses the springs straight down and two at a time and is beefy enough that it will last through as many spring changes you can throw at it. The Ebay one I used I will not use a second time as it was starting to flex pretty bad toward the end but it served its purpose this one time.

The Manley part# is 221436-16 and the rest of the Manley part#'s are in the picture;

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