06-12-2009, 03:17 AM | #85 |
Drives: X-15 Velocipede Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: SW Florida
Posts: 4,637
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How Clutches Work
Check out this clutch video. It allows you to visualize what's happening when your foot pushes and releases the clutch pedal.
http://auto.howstuffworks.com/clutch1.htm Movie Time!
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06-12-2009, 04:43 AM | #86 |
Well my piece of advice after skimming over all the good advice you've received here is FIRST if you enlist a friend to help teach/refresh you on the stick. Make sure they really know what they are talking about/doing. I didn't learn until years later and multiple clutch replacements that my dear friend's advice to have the clutch in anytime my foot was on the brake.
Although I guess I should have known when the friend was teaching me and decided the best place for me to learn was in San Francisco on Gough Street (probably one of the steepest streets in the city). And to boot nasty taxi cab driver behind me. UGH. But since you said you've driven a stick before, even briefly, it will come back quickly. Almost like riding a bike. You never really forget. Just the more you do it the better you get. And then there is always getting to know you vehicle, regardless of transmission. ENJOY! |
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06-12-2009, 08:20 AM | #87 | |
Drives: 1990 Honda Accord Join Date: May 2009
Location: Atlanta, GA
Posts: 53
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EDIT: Actually, I guess I should say disengaged |
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06-12-2009, 09:10 AM | #88 | ||
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It is quite possible to shift without using the clutch and without breaking the transmission, but on a common synchronized transmission you'll never know if you're doing it right and you're likely to wear your synchros out prematurely. You have to have perfect timing when pulling out of gear into neutral, then you have to rev-match perfectly when entering a gear without the clutch. Synchros sacrifice their life to prevent you from knowing you didn't do it perfectly.
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Removing weight has surprisingly little effect on fuel economy
Engine break-in procedure | Gear ratios 2002 GMC Sierra 4x4 5.3 (190,000 miles and going strong) 1980 Buick Lesabre family heirloom with 36,000 miles 2008 Volkswagen Rabbit 2 door I5-2.5 5spd DD lease Quote:
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06-12-2009, 09:25 AM | #89 |
Drives: 2010 2SS/RS M6 Black/Black Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Pittsburgh, PA
Posts: 1,281
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Should be a cakewalk in the Camaro once you learn where the clutch grabs and get a feel and ear for the shift points.... Torque and gearing of this car should help a TON as well as being a hydraulic clutch. If you really want to learn, drive something with little torque and a non-hydraulic clutch.... get yourself on a medium grade hill (away from traffic) and just practice taking off, coming to a complete stop each time. Taking off on a hill really is the most difficult part of driving a stick... master that and the rest will follow.
For the longest time only stick I drove was my El Camino.. which should be ballpark 350-400 ft/lb tq and 3.73 gears... you can take off in 3rd gear if you work it right... I drove my buddies dodge dakota 5-speed little while back and almost stalled it a few times because I wasn't use to the torque difference..... Even rev-matching when downshifting and such will come to you naturally once you get a feel for it... you shouldn't have a problem... Just don't try talking on your cell phone, smoking, eating a burrito and shifting at the same time.... I'm pretty good at driving with my knees but kinda hard to reach the clutch pedal while doing so |
06-12-2009, 09:29 AM | #90 | |
The Demon Photographer
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1SS IOM LS3, GM 4-pack guages, SLP SS Front Emblem, Roto-Fab CAI, Solo Performance Mach X Exhaust, Barton Industries Short Throw Shifter |
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06-12-2009, 11:18 AM | #91 | ||
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I don't remember what it felt like, but when I was 17 I drove my friend's Mitsubishi Mighty Max a few times and didn't stall once, nor did I sit there slipping the clutch for 10 seconds trying to launch. I just got in and drove as if I had always driven manual. I assume that I did it based on pedal feel, but it was a long time ago. Then last year when I got my VW it took like 6 months for me to get good at not stalling (I eventually realized that I was dumping the clutch as soon as the car started moving, rather than continuing to slowly ease it out).
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Removing weight has surprisingly little effect on fuel economy
Engine break-in procedure | Gear ratios 2002 GMC Sierra 4x4 5.3 (190,000 miles and going strong) 1980 Buick Lesabre family heirloom with 36,000 miles 2008 Volkswagen Rabbit 2 door I5-2.5 5spd DD lease Quote:
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06-12-2009, 11:24 AM | #92 |
Gunning for Sixth
Drives: '03 ZR2 Blazer Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Woodhaven, Michigan
Posts: 9,358
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Just got back from testing one myself. Nothing to really worry about on the LS3 since the 6 is very forgiving, and gears are easy to find in a relative sense. Very crisp and firm engagements too, which surprised me having driven trucks and mustangs. Just be wary of not putting your foot into the car too much, as it was a shocker and almost caused me to wipe the car out..
But with that said, nothing to really worry about on this car. As far as methodology, Set and hold is the easiest to downshift, but I tend to use it to only drop one gear. If I have to come to a stop, shove the clutch in and let it idle down. No big issue. If you practice timing it with an auto, I've found that the transition was really smooth and I thought nothing of it. |
06-12-2009, 01:00 PM | #93 | |
Convertible GonnaBe 4/11
Drives: Chrysler Aspen Hybrid Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Cranbrook BC
Posts: 138
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In other words, there is always power transfering from one end of your vehicle to the other end. The purpose of depressing a clutch, is to break that power transfer so it does not shock the system. If you pull the transmission into neutal without pushing in the clutch there will be power transfering from the input side, to the output side. At some point, this power is spread over a very small area of the gears. That is what chips gears in the transmission. As you let the clutch back out after you have shifted, the clutch slips which in effect works like a shock absorber to the drive line. Can you change gears without a clutch. Yes. Is it good for your transmission or your drive line. No
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06-12-2009, 01:14 PM | #94 | |
Drives: 1990 Honda Accord Join Date: May 2009
Location: Atlanta, GA
Posts: 53
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06-12-2009, 01:18 PM | #95 | |
Drives: V8 american car Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Dallas, Tx
Posts: 1,417
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If you learn using your camaro, you might end up excessively wearing down the clutch disk. You might pop the clutch a lot learning, and that will lead to clutch-chatter later on, which is caused because the clutch disc surface pressing against the pressure plate no longer is smooth anymore because you popped the clutch a lot, and both surfaces banged against each other way too fast. some people are faster learners than others though. you probably will be fine. be aware that all the parts involved with the clutch will have to replaced faster depending on how you drive your new car. I had the same clutch disk for over 100,000 miles, but the throw out bearing exploded eventually at 110,000 miles. that was with driving normal and not racing. adios |
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06-12-2009, 01:24 PM | #96 | |
Convertible GonnaBe 4/11
Drives: Chrysler Aspen Hybrid Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Cranbrook BC
Posts: 138
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When I use to race my motorcyle (drag race) I would pull up on the gear pedle with my foot as I was accelerating and when I got to the shift point, back off the throttle momentarily (to unload the drive line) and then pull up to the next gear. Worked great, as long as it shifted.... not easy on the engine if it did not. Now, of course, I would never, ever recomend anyone ever to do this.
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06-18-2009, 10:34 PM | #97 | |
Drives: 2006 BMW 530i Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: North Jersey
Posts: 5
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bump
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06-18-2009, 11:04 PM | #98 |
Drives: 2010 Camaro 2SS/RS Join Date: May 2009
Location: Michigan
Posts: 756
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You'll be fine
just go rent a car and practice on that also, you will really only get good at it when you are alone in the car and practice for a few hours.
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