Looking for input from ZL1 owners who track theirs on road courses.

[E. Bryant]

Originally Posted by Mikamaro

And how many track hours have you spent before making those changes?

There were a few hundred laps of seat time between the time that I bought the car and when I first broke its mod cherry. And I'm no track newbie, either. This car is incredibly fast in its stock form, and the simple truth is that the vast majority of owners do not have the skill or training to properly explore its limits.

If you're looking for someone to justify dumping a lot of money into the car before figuring out how to drive it and how it responds to minor changes, then you'll need to ask for permission from someone else. I'm trying to provide helpful advice; feel free to take it or leave it.

[gmgdave]

If you are running a manual I recommend separating the the brake and clutch fluid.

Easy cheap mod and keeps the two system isolated.

[Stephen12ZL1]

leave the boost near stock or max 5% overdrive as the car will overheat if you run too much boost. Try Hawk DTC 70 front and DTC 60 for maximum bite brake pads. Suspension can be left alone besides an appropriate track alignment and possibly lowering springs. The suspension/steering feedback can be placed in "track mode" via PTM 5. R comp tires will be much appreciated such as Toyo Proxes, Nitto NT01, Pirelli Trofeo, Michelin Pilot Sport Cup, etc. Obviously, upgrade the brake fluid to Motul 600 or equivalent DOT 4 fluid. Have a great time!
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[Nor Cal ZL1]

To combat overheating and lower boost while increasing HP add a cam and long tubes, while leaving the pulleys alone.

That said many owners, myself included, don't have enough seat time to fully exploit what is already there. Start with a track alignment and DOT 4 brake fluid. If you cook the brakes you can add Zo6 vented brake caliper pistons.

[Stephen12ZL1]

I would leave the cam stock. Headers with no cats will help bit not alleviate all of the potential cooling issues. I ran a Dewitts radiator, upgraded heat exhanger, 160°F thermostat, and cooling was just barely adequate at ambients of 80°F on track. I had an appropriate road course tune with very safe timing and slightly rich fueling which amounted to 510/540 rwhp/tq.

[Nor Cal ZL1]

Originally Posted by Stephen12ZL1

I would leave the cam stock. Headers with no cats will help bit not alleviate all of the potential cooling issues. I ran a Dewitts radiator, upgraded heat exhanger, 160°F thermostat, and cooling was just barely adequate at ambients of 80°F on track. I had an appropriate road course tune with very safe timing and slightly rich fueling which amounted to 510/540 rwhp/tq.

True, but for a road course LSA build for power increase, I would still cam it over speeding up the supercharger and fighting even more IAT 2 timing pull. More expensive yes, less heat though. E85 is also a decent way to go except most tracks don't have it at the track pumps. It also needs some understanding to set up as the cooling benefit is post IAT 2@ the injectors.

[E. Bryant]

I am running long tubes, a cam, and a 9.55" lower and do not have IAT2 temp problems on 85F days. I do see water and oil temperatures above what I'd prefer, so on warm days I'll now take a cool-down lap or two at the half-way point of a session. The tires often need a break by that point anyways.

I am currently running Hawk DTC-70 pads in the front and DTC-60 in the rear, and they bite like crazy. But if I push the car too hard, it's now possible to boil Motul RBF600 fluid before the pads show any signs of fade, where as the stock pads would give up well before the fluid.

E85 would be nice, but fuel range is already a problem. The car is already thirsty enough to drain the fuel tank in less than three 20-minute sessions, which is a bit of a PITA when running a full day with 7-8 sessions.

[Mikamaro]

I like where this conversation is going guys. Good stuff. I've track my 2010 SS for 6 years and by the 2 years a lot of stuff needed to be upgraded for durability and efficiency.
If I am to invest into a new camaro ZL1 as my track toy, i need to know more about its Superchargd engine.
Im on the fence about it. Every event I went too, the guy with the SC engine was fast in the first few session but then quit because of heat. Plus headers on the ZL1 does not past sound check at the 2 tracks I race.

[Can'tHave2MuchHP]

Originally Posted by Mikamaro

I like where this conversation is going guys. Good stuff. I've track my 2010 SS for 6 years and by the 2 years a lot of stuff needed to be upgraded for durability and efficiency.
If I am to invest into a new camaro ZL1 as my track toy, i need to know more about its Superchargd engine.
Im on the fence about it. Every event I went too, the guy with the SC engine was fast in the first few session but then quit because of heat. Plus headers on the ZL1 does not past sound check at the 2 tracks I race.

If you want a track toy get a Z28 or a 1LE.

If you want a drag strip monster, get a ZL1.

If you want a comfortable high horsepower street car, get a ZL1.


At the end of the day the ZL1 is the best 5th Gen Camaro. BUT if you are really looking to seriously track your car, then get a Z28.

[Mikamaro]

Originally Posted by Can'tHave2MuchHP

If you want a track toy get a Z28 or a 1LE.

If you want a drag strip monster, get a ZL1.

If you want a comfortable high horsepower street car, get a ZL1.


At the end of the day the ZL1 is the best 5th Gen Camaro. BUT if you are really looking to seriously track your car, then get a Z28.

Too much money for z/28...or I should say don't have enought money to buy it!

Im more debating if I should get the zl1 over the 1le. Is the price difference really worth it at the track?
I know where the 1le stands at the track but the zl1 is temping for 10k more....

[Nor Cal ZL1]

Originally Posted by Mikamaro

I like where this conversation is going guys. Good stuff. I've track my 2010 SS for 6 years and by the 2 years a lot of stuff needed to be upgraded for durability and efficiency.
If I am to invest into a new camaro ZL1 as my track toy, i need to know more about its Superchargd engine.
Im on the fence about it. Every event I went too, the guy with the SC engine was fast in the first few session but then quit because of heat. Plus headers on the ZL1 does not past sound check at the 2 tracks I race.

Were those cars stock, or modified? Lots of guys that have mods go after the cheap and easy way to add power which is pulleys, which is quite understandable for a drag racer, or street car. Not what you want to do for a road course car without other things.

There are plenty of us that track the car just fine, and some are pushing way more power than I am with no issues.

The Z 2/8 would be the ultimate of the 5th gen, but I don't trust the LS7.

When you say your going to purchase a ZL1 is it the 5th or 6th gen?

[Mikamaro]

Originally Posted by Nor Cal ZL1

Were those cars stock, or modified? Lots of guys that have mods go after the cheap and easy way to add power which is pulleys, which is quite understandable for a drag racer, or street car. Not what you want to do for a road course car without other things.

There are plenty of us that track the car just fine, and some are pushing way more power than I am with no issues.

The Z 2/8 would be the ultimate of the 5th gen, but I don't trust the LS7.

When you say your going to purchase a ZL1 is it the 5th or 6th gen?

5th gen. I Dont fit well in the 6th gen, plus the money is too much for my budget.

[flipstyledsm22]

I'm also following this thread closely. I want all the track capable benefits, but still DD the ZL1. I should have bought a coupe, but I will make due with what I got.

I'm experiencing heat soak right now and I want to get rid of it. Nothing feels worse that loss of power and having to driving normal until temps are normal again.

Also, what are normal oil temps supposed to be when tracking your ZL1's?

[ZMEnow]

Originally Posted by E. Bryant

I am running long tubes, a cam, and a 9.55" lower and do not have IAT2 temp problems on 85F days. I do see water and oil temperatures above what I'd prefer, so on warm days I'll now take a cool-down lap or two at the half-way point of a session. The tires often need a break by that point anyways.

I am currently running Hawk DTC-70 pads in the front and DTC-60 in the rear, and they bite like crazy. But if I push the car too hard, it's now possible to boil Motul RBF600 fluid before the pads show any signs of fade, where as the stock pads would give up well before the fluid.

E85 would be nice, but fuel range is already a problem. The car is already thirsty enough to drain the fuel tank in less than three 20-minute sessions, which is a bit of a PITA when running a full day with 7-8 sessions.

Just curious how are your rotors holding up?