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Old 12-31-2012, 03:25 AM   #1
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Removing struts to install hotchkis strut tower brace [cry]

Day 2 of strut brace installation tomorrow...who knew drilling 4 holes could be so difficult.

Anyone else have the hotchkis strut brace on their 2010?
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Old 12-31-2012, 10:19 PM   #2
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Don't have it but was considering it since I'd like a supercharger some day and it is the least likely to interfere.

What problems are you having?
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Old 01-01-2013, 03:59 AM   #3
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It's just annoying having to remove the struts. We finished it up today. Once we had the right tools, it was fine - but I definitely have to get an alignment.

I got the hotchkis 4 point for the same reason, may get a supercharger in the very distant future
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Old 01-01-2013, 02:00 PM   #4
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Ya didn't have a 24mm box wrench with just the right angle on it- am I right?

Didn't know you had to remove the struts to drill those hoies...
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Old 01-01-2013, 04:37 PM   #5
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strut tower brace is a great 'looks' mod.
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Old 01-01-2013, 05:13 PM   #6
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I have one but had the struts out to change the springs.
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Old 01-01-2013, 10:13 PM   #7
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I just dropped the struts down. The worst part was drilling the holes. I needed some newer sharper drill bits.

I was super happy with not only the "looks" but felt the handling was much better also.
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Old 01-01-2013, 11:33 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ventmaster View Post
Ya didn't have a 24mm box wrench with just the right angle on it- am I right?

Didn't know you had to remove the struts to drill those hoies...
That's what the hotckis instructions call for. A fellow C5 member said he did it with a right angle drill (without removing the struts), but I didn't really feel like investing in that. We ended up purchasing a deep socket and regular socket 24mm, along with the 24mm wrench and an extended socket wrench to break the spindle bolts.
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Old 01-01-2013, 11:35 PM   #9
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Quote:
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I just dropped the struts down. The worst part was drilling the holes. I needed some newer sharper drill bits.

I was super happy with not only the "looks" but felt the handling was much better also.
Yeah - I let the husband do that part. Our bits were just grabbing the metal like crazy, luckily he did not end up breaking his wrist! lol
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Old 01-02-2013, 07:00 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hairzee View Post
but felt the handling was much better also.
"Felt" being the operative word, as in "felt more solid", right?

Structurally, STBs are better at suppressing cowl shake and other structural vibrations (the "V" in "NVH") than they are at adding enough chassis stiffness to matter in anything even remotely resembling sane street driving.

This is a case of perception being reality most times. That said, the reduction in NVH is a desirable goal and may be enough reason all by itself for anyone to install a STB.


About the difficulty in drilling - I wouldn't be surprised if it was some sort of high strength/low alloy steel you were trying to drill through.


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Old 01-02-2013, 08:08 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jesslz View Post
Yeah - I let the husband do that part. Our bits were just grabbing the metal like crazy, luckily he did not end up breaking his wrist! lol
Unibits are the best bet for sheet metal and enlarging pre-existing holes. They are a single flute cutting conical bit with discreet steps for each diameter. Home Depot or Lowes should have them in there tool section. I feel your husbands pain, I have done the wrist wrap before.
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Old 01-02-2013, 10:45 AM   #12
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This is what's keeping me from doing a strut tower brace. The amount of work versus the actual gain in chassis regidity doesn't seem worth it.
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Old 01-02-2013, 12:33 PM   #13
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There isn't total consensus regarding STB's among the various teams racing Camaro's. Many answer with "Well, it certainly can't hurt the handling so why not?" And the minimal additional weight from a STB isn't an issue because most are adding weight somewhere to meet class specs. Personally, I put it in the "good looking and might help" category.
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Old 01-02-2013, 02:32 PM   #14
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The details matter.

A 2-point STB won't be worth as much structurally as a 3- or 4-point arrangement, assuming that you've got solid enough 3rd and 4th points to tie off into.

A 2-point bar will be better at reducing camber change under hard braking than improving outside front tire camber change under cornering. Although there is an overall net "gain" because the outside tire is also carrying more vertical load, inside front camber does change a tiny bit for the worse, costing you a little grip at that corner.


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