Help - Trailing arm install

[Fraxum]

Third time I've done a trailing arm install, but this but the first time on the 1LE. Got both outer bushings off easy enough. But stuck on the passenger side re-installing the Trailing arm. Got the driver side to line up by loading the suspension with a floor jack.

Doing this on a single jack stand with the passenger wheel only off.

I can't get the holes to line up. Tied both inner and outer first then tried using the jack to raise the suspension. I have seen someone say to the outer bolt first. But either way stuck for now.

[Fraxum]

Could it be both sides of the rear suspension havhttp://www.camaro5.com/forums/e to be unloaded?

Drivers side wheel off the ground now. Nope, that didn't help.

With both wheels off the ground trying loading the suspension on the passer side. it moved a little closer, but still at least 1/2 inch to go.

Stuck.

[Fraxum]

If you have have found this thread and have this problem then here is the answer I found by reading every Trailing arm thread I could find:

My extra safe DIY garage C5 Camaro Trailing Arm and outer TA bushing replacement instructions:

1. One wheel at a time, remove the wheel and carefully put the side up on jackstands. I also leave the floor jack with a light pressure on the jacking point as well for stability. This I also stack up some wood 2x10 12" rectangles as a third emergency backup under a frame rail.
2. Loosen both Trailing arm bolts.
3. Drop the floor jack and place a piece of wood under the disk so that the wood spans the brake disk and the bolt sticking down under the Lower Control Arm. Place the floor jack directly under the disk and slowly raise the spindle.
4. After an inch or two try to remove the inner Trailing Arm bolt. If it is hard to turn try raising or lowering the spindle until it is easy to turn. You are looking for the point at which the inner bolt exactly lines up with no pressure on the bolt. Remove the inside bolt, it should come out easily.
5. Slowly Lower the spindle and remove the jack. Remove the outer bolt.
6. Remove the outer TA bushing using one of the many methods on the web. I use a HD two arm gear puller with a short bolt and washer inserted into the bushing sleeve. I pre-drilled the head of the bolt to give the puller pin a recess to dig into. Using this method you can remove the bushing without damage. I know you are going to throw them away, but just for fun you can try to sell them on Ebay.
7. Grease the new bushing and sleeve and insert them into the bushing cylinder. To fully compress the busing you may need to carefully use a large C-Clamp. You will need to make sure the bushing is fully seated for the outer TA flange to fit over the bushing.
8. With no load on the spindle attach the outer bolt and nut to the TA and the spindle. Start nut on the bolt.
9. Place the floor jack and the piece of wood under the brake disc again and slowly raise the spindle while checking the inside TA bolt alignment. Keep adjusting until the inner bolt moves freely into the inner TA mount. Thread the inner bolt by hand until you see the end of the bolt coming out of the nut welded to the frame. Be very careful not to strip that welded bolt. Ask me how I know this.
10. Lower the floor jack and place it back again on the jacking point with a little pressure to stabilize the car once.
11. Tighten the inner and outer bolts
12. Put the wheel back on.
13. Have a refreshment of your choice, you did it.

[AGM 1LE]

Thread rez but I have to thank you for the wood under the brake disc tip. That helped me get it done after a few hours of fighting it.

[Fraxum]

Originally Posted by AGM 1LE

Thread rez but I have to thank you for the wood under the brake disc tip. That helped me get it done after a few hours of fighting it.

You are welcome. Getting that inner bolt started was driving me crazy.

[JusticePete]

Articulation is an amazing thing.

[wakespeak]

Seems like you would have to raise both wheels or the stabilizer bar would affect droop.

[JusticePete]

A sway bar endlink should be disconnected for this.