I need some tips for getting a good run down the track!

[Scourage]

I feel like a sponge, soaking it all up.

[nuptualnemesis]

TIP OF THE DAY

Best way to shift a M6 and not miss a gear.


Don't grab the shift knob. Keep thumb off of it.
For 1-2 and 3-4 shift, wrap all four fingers around the shift knob with thumb on right side of knob or over fingers and pull striaght down. For 2-3 shift, palm the back of the knob and push up to right at 15 - 20 degrees. Trying to push an H pattern causes to you to go too far past neutral or not far enough and miss third.

[nuptualnemesis]

TIP OF THE DAY

Do burn out in second gear. Tires spin faster and heat up quicker. Adjust left side mirror so you can see rear tire and go into water box (or stop just short for street tires) and pull out of water a foot or so. Hold gas pedal at 5,000 and dump clutch. Put foot on brake lightly. Keep gas pedal locked in same position. The car will stall out if you press brake too hard. Light braking allows the car too move forward the entire time Slowly.

If the rear end moves right counter steer a little to the right and rear left steer to left. Let off more on brake if rear moves very much side ways. Let off brake completely if big rear side movement. Release brake completely after 2 or 3 seconds of spin. You are trying to keep gas pedal steady entire time with revs around 4,500 - 5000. Let off on gas slowly as car starts coming out of spin and completely when spin stops or car gets straight and you get close to the tree. Less spin needed for street tires. Moving forward get you away from water trail and dries off tires. Moving forward prevent rear going sideways.

Don't let off on gas if rear end moves to side unless really bad. You should be able to release brake and drive out of a rear slide with the counter steer and gas held constant. Do let off if worried about hitting the wall the rear will straighten abruptly with a lot of sideways force. Best to drive out of wheel spin. You will feel it pulling forward as it is coming out of wheel spin, then reduce rpms.

Here is a video where you can see counter steer and driving out of it. http://www.camaro5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=64250

[nuptualnemesis]

TIP OF THE DAY:

Seal off the cold air intake box for after market cold air. You can get flat or rounded foam insulation with tape backing from Auto Zone. You can add to the top of box for complete seal to hood, between box and radiator, and around inlet tube hole. Use Gorilla Rubber Tape from Home Depot (in Duct Tape section) to seal any cracks on the edge of the box on sides and bottom. (split it in half) Very sticky strong and durable.

This will be more important when it warms up to avoid under hood temperatures. I read that when the inlet temperature gets over 100 to 110 degrees the computer pulls ten degrees of timing. The inlet temperature will heat up idling in the staging lanes. You can monitor this and about 40 other functions with an Aeroforce Interceptor gauge. It also acts as a shift light. http://www.aeroforcetech.com/products_interceptor.html

[Toyaholic]

Originally Posted by nuptualnemesis

TIP OF THE DAY

Best way to shift a M6 and not miss a gear.


Don't grab the shift knob. Keep thumb off of it.
For 1-2 and 3-4 shift, wrap all four fingers around the shift knob with thumb on right side of knob or over fingers and pull striaght down. For 2-3 shift, palm the back of the knob and push up to right at 15 - 20 degrees. Trying to push an H pattern causes to you to go too far past neutral or not far enough and miss third.

Yup!!! missed second gear when I forgot to lift the thumb.

[Becca]

OMG thank you so much for this detailed explination....had problems with this at the track and this had helped a lot!!!

Originally Posted by nuptualnemesis

TIP OF THE DAY

Do burn out in second gear. Tires spin faster and heat up quicker. Adjust left side mirror so you can see rear tire and go into water box (or stop just short for street tires) and pull out of water a foot or so. Hold gas pedal at 5,000 and dump clutch. Put foot on brake lightly. Keep gas pedal locked in same position. The car will stall out if you press brake too hard. Light braking allows the car too move forward the entire time Slowly.

If the rear end moves right counter steer a little to the right and rear left steer to left. Let off more on brake if rear moves very much side ways. Let off brake completely if big rear side movement. Release brake completely after 2 or 3 seconds of spin. You are trying to keep gas pedal steady entire time with revs around 4,500 - 5000. Let off on gas slowly as car starts coming out of spin and completely when spin stops or car gets straight and you get close to the tree. Less spin needed for street tires. Moving forward get you away from water trail and dries off tires. Moving forward prevent rear going sideways.

Don't let off on gas if rear end moves to side unless really bad. You should be able to release brake and drive out of a rear slide with the counter steer and gas held constant. Do let off if worried about hitting the wall the rear will straighten abruptly with a lot of sideways force. Best to drive out of wheel spin. You will feel it pulling forward as it is coming out of wheel spin, then reduce rpms.

Here is a video where you can see counter steer and driving out of it. http://www.camaro5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=64250

[nuptualnemesis]

TIP OF THE DAY

You can slip the clutch by releasing it too slowly. It does not hurt to slip it taking off from a stop sign or red light because the rpms are low. It will heat up if it slips as you release it too slow at higher rpms. If you roll into the throttle while you are releasing the clutch too slowly the rpms accelerate too fast while the clutch is engaged, spins the clutch discs too fast and heats or burns them.

There is some slipping of the clutch when you drive off from a red light but not a lot. Notice how much. It takes a second or probably less to come all the way out. Try to duplicate a similar motion on a higher rpm launch. You will heat up the clutch if you slip it too much on a high rpm launch. You will smell it. Do it too often or for too long and you will burn it up and have to replace the disks. If you don't smell it you are OK.

The amount of clutch release time it takes to smoothly, firmly and fairly quickly accelerate from a stop on the street with out any surging or bucking is what you are looking for. You just do the same thing at a higher rpm.

You may want to launch as low at 2,000 or 2,500 with street tires. What ever rpm allows you to come out of tire spin holding the throttle steady with the least amount of bog and least amount of tire spin when you roll into the throttle after tire spin stops. You can also try rolling into it a little sooner (at the end of tire spin) with the same rpm launch to avoid the bog. Roll in too soon or too fast and too much tire spin. My car needs to come out of tire spin around 3000 rpm to roll into throttle fairly quickly and no bog or hesitation during acceleration.

It takes practice. Find an empty road or parking lot and launch repeatedly with about 25lb of air for street tires. No need to do a burn out. No need to wind out first. Slow down and do it again. I have talked my way out of a ticket when practicing in an abandoned parking lot. Told them not reckless because no other vehicles around, never went over 25mph, and no police jurisdiction because not a public road. It helps to be nice to the officer and tell them what you are doing and why. There should not be excessive tire spin or noise if you are doing it correctly.

Do this 5-10 times, 2-3 times a week until it comes natural. Stop practicing for the day if you smell the clutch. It is easier to do with drag radials than street tires. You might not want to use the same place all the time if it will bother anyone nearby.

[Toyaholic]

Originally Posted by nuptualnemesis

TIP OF THE DAY

It helps to be nice to the officer and tell them what you are doing and why.

Yeah, I got surounded by the police after running about XXX on a street when I was testing the braking on my RX-7. Told the cops what I was doing..... Then they wanted to see the engine and no ticket.

If you're not a threat to anyone (besides yourself) they may let you go.

[jnm2003]

went last friday to state capital raceway in Baton Rouge. My car is a manual, bone stock with borla axle back mufflers.
Ive been racing at the track since i was 16 and now im 24. Drove plenty of 6 speeds never at the track so this was my first 1/4 mile race with my car and a manual.
I put 29 lbs of pressure in rear tires.
my first pass was a 13.6. Second was a 13.3.
Last pass i made was a 13.0 at 111mph with a 2.28 60ft time. (Let me just say within the next week im ordering nittos for my car). I havnt seen many cars go 111mph bone stock. Yea i have diff mufflers but wow probably an extra 2 hp. lol. So im puttin some drag radials on it ASAP and I want to see what i can get out it. 111mph it should be at least a 12.7.

Well my tips are to turn traction control, stabilitrac ALL off. U can noticeably feel the power difference without them. practice somewhere ur take off, feathering the clutch, rolling into the gas etc. EXACTLY WHAT NUPTUALNEMESIS EXPLAINED IN HIS POSTS.
Next tip is I FOUND OUT (from another stock camaro driver) that u really need closer to 25 lbs of pressure in rear tires instead of 29 or 30 like i had. Helps 60 ft. Every tenth off ur 60ft time is even more off ur 1/4 mile. Im gonna try 25lbs on sunday or next friday when i go to the track cause i want to get the best 60ft i can on stock tires and see how much nittos help.

Dont feel bad if u dont do good ur first couple times runnin ur car bc all i gotta say is this is one of the hardest cars to launch off the starting line. ITS SO HEAVY SO U NEED RPMS (at least 2800) TO MOVE IT OFF THE LINE, TOO MUCH (anything closer to 3500 ) IT MAKES ENOUGH HP AND TQ U ROAST THE TIRES. Pzeros SUCK!!!!!!
there is only a very small medium to get this car to launch. And by the way its COMPLETELY DIFF than street launching and track launching. I mess with my car all the time on the street and got a descent technique for launching and i was surprised at the track.
ALSO the next tip is I heard that u can pull ur stock air filter out and gain 1 or 2 mph at the track. Im gonna try this also next time i go to the track.

well all this is kinda jumbled but its my story/tips for anyone interested. Im getting nitto 555rs bc im on a preorder list for an intake and a couple months later i will be getting headers so i figure i will need them anyway.

[d69chris]

BMR stuff. Toes are not on in this pic due to bushing size problem. They are on now, but no pic

[blufin]

My best short time is 1.870 on stock tires @ 32 lbs. Keep practicing your launch techniques and the times will start dropping.

[nuptualnemesis]

TIP of the day:

BMR fabrication has Differential Mount Bushings for $89.99 see them at http://www.bmrfabrication.com/F5.htm.
Cheapest I've seen. Easier to install because two piece, BUT,
you have to drill, cut or burn out stock rubber bushings. Can be done
with out removing sub frame, BUT probably not a home garage project.

I'll be trying them soon.

See additional information later.

[nuptualnemesis]

I melted my cats when I hooked the Lingerfelter 2 step rev limiter to a momentary switch to limit RPM's during burnout. It dumped too much raw fuel when spark was pulled to limit rpm. Couldn't get over a 1/4 throttle and less power in each gear with more throttle.

Put in new cats and now using rev limiter for no lift shifts only. First time hit second with new cats and TC on, it sheared the bolts at rear drive shaft flange to rear yoke. Tore up shaft, heat shield and mounting points on gas tank. Sheared where threads start and bolts thread into Yoke. Thought drilling necessary to get out but grabbed last quarter inch and they were handy. Screwed right out. Could have been loose and reason they broke. Should have had loctite on threads.

TIP: Upgraded to stronger bolts on front and rear flange with plenty of loctite. Front and Rear safety loops are a good idea to limit damage if problem with transmission or drive shaft. Turn TC off to shift hard. The brakes coming on to limit wheel spin on hard shift can't be good.

[jnm2003]

nuptual im going to SCR on friday! just got intake and engine power systems tune last friday. And i still havnt got to run it with my new short throw! Is ur car good to go now?