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Old 08-17-2012, 09:23 AM   #15
Higgs Boson
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First what you need to do it go in and increase idle spark timing by 7 degrees.
flash it into the computer, drive the car around and warm it up to operating temps.
Then just sit at idle and scan idle parameters including spark advance to see what you are getting and compare it to what you have set in the table.
Use the scanner to decrease the timing until you are using the least amount of timing without decreasing your MAP value. Increase it back up until you get a change in MAP, play with it and find a number in between.
Set that number in your idle cells in your spark maps (all of the spark maps, not just base idle, should only be maybe two cells total - the same two in all the tables).
Then, copy your regular Spark Timing tables from 1000 RPM and up into your Base Idle and Coastdown tables, smooth the tables, change all the values in your Base Idle Airflow table above 1200 to zero.

After you do that, you probably need to retune the 400-1200 RPM areas of your MAF and VE tables so your A/F mixture is correct with low or no trims. You do this while driving around or on the dyno and then let it idle and let the trims settle and adjust accordingly. If your tuner does not have the ability to properly tune a virtual VE you either need a custom OS to enable a real VE table or just set the MAF to enable at 2 RPMs and disregard the VE tables completely. BTW, no custom OS available yet for the 2012s.

Good luck.
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Old 10-07-2012, 09:45 PM   #16
Coyotekiller
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Drives: 2012 AGM 2SS
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Higgs Boson View Post
First what you need to do it go in and increase idle spark timing by 7 degrees.
flash it into the computer, drive the car around and warm it up to operating temps.
Then just sit at idle and scan idle parameters including spark advance to see what you are getting and compare it to what you have set in the table.
Use the scanner to decrease the timing until you are using the least amount of timing without decreasing your MAP value. Increase it back up until you get a change in MAP, play with it and find a number in between.
Set that number in your idle cells in your spark maps (all of the spark maps, not just base idle, should only be maybe two cells total - the same two in all the tables).
Then, copy your regular Spark Timing tables from 1000 RPM and up into your Base Idle and Coastdown tables, smooth the tables, change all the values in your Base Idle Airflow table above 1200 to zero.

After you do that, you probably need to retune the 400-1200 RPM areas of your MAF and VE tables so your A/F mixture is correct with low or no trims. You do this while driving around or on the dyno and then let it idle and let the trims settle and adjust accordingly. If your tuner does not have the ability to properly tune a virtual VE you either need a custom OS to enable a real VE table or just set the MAF to enable at 2 RPMs and disregard the VE tables completely. BTW, no custom OS available yet for the 2012s.

Good luck.
This didn't fix anything. But I think the retune put my car back into a higher octane tune because it pulls like hell now. Oh well.
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Old 10-08-2012, 06:40 AM   #17
Higgs Boson
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Originally Posted by Coyotekiller View Post
This didn't fix anything. But I think the retune put my car back into a higher octane tune because it pulls like hell now. Oh well.
then you may have a mechanical issue or leak
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Old 10-08-2012, 12:28 PM   #18
Coyotekiller
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Originally Posted by Higgs Boson View Post
then you may have a mechanical issue or leak
Uh, no. You could just be wrong. We tried raising the idle spark advance, tried raising the idle, tried lower the spark timing. Nothing worked. And I'm not gonna run 30 degrees of spark advance at idle.
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