Stage 8 locking header bolts - Camaro5 Chevy Camaro Forum / Camaro ZL1, SS and V6 Forums

Nutro · 06-23-2013, 09:50 PM

Any good? I thought they were the cats ass but after searching I am not sure. The guy I bought my headers from hooked me up with some brand new ones in the box and I am tempted to use them or sell them and buy the ARP bolts or studs.

BigBlock69RS · 06-23-2013, 10:06 PM

I really like them used them on my 69, same with header to exhaust flange bolts.

Worked really good little anti sieze and you are golden.

axis · 06-23-2013, 10:11 PM

You know what i'd suggest you do but i'll make it easy for you JUST THIS ONE TIME.

http://www.camaro5.com/forums/showth...g+header+bolts

FWIW, I used your exact title header in the search box.

Nutro · 06-23-2013, 10:37 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by axis

You know what i'd suggest you do but i'll make it easy for you JUST THIS ONE TIME.

http://www.camaro5.com/forums/showth...g+header+bolts

FWIW, I used your exact title header in the search box.

Yep I did search, as I mentioned, silly.

I just didn't want to base a decision off of one thread where 2 people said they liked them, 2 people didn't and 2 people said stockers were fine

rberns · 06-23-2013, 11:52 PM

Haha, my thread is useful! I acually just ended up going with my OEM.

litle88 · 06-24-2013, 08:40 AM

^^^lol yup I've had the same OEM bolts on my fourth gen since 2001 with an Ls1 now it's got an Ls3 with the same bolts lol. They have never backed off either. Lol

2012-2SS · 06-24-2013, 11:11 AM

OEM bolts work fine but if you have them you might as well use them.

Sent from my Galaxy S3

axis · 06-24-2013, 12:11 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Nutro

Yep I did search, as I mentioned, silly.

I just didn't want to base a decision off of one thread where 2 people said they liked them, 2 people didn't and 2 people said stockers were fine

No matter what the people suggested, I think that thread does have some very useful info in it. Either will work fine and hold well. If you're wanting the looks, they are a good option along with ARP studs. If you're just wanting something that won't back out, stockers are fine. There is the hassle issue to take into account.

chef-beavis · 06-24-2013, 12:35 PM

I have used studs in the past and Stage 8 header bolts, on my old-school Cutlass that had a SBC in it. The studs worked well but I continued to have issues. The Stage 8 ended the problem and I had none come loose and lost no gaskets for the last 8 years or so that I owned the car. I can say they were not a great grade of stainless, though. They eventually corroded.

RJT-SS · 06-24-2013, 01:11 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Nutro

Any good? I thought they were the cats ass but after searching I am not sure. The guy I bought my headers from hooked me up with some brand new ones in the box and I am tempted to use them or sell them and buy the ARP bolts or studs.

Use the OEM bolts, sell the Stage 8s, and put the $$ towards something else. Torque them down to the proper spec, check them after a few heat/cool cycles, and you will be just fine.

MarylandSpeed · 06-24-2013, 05:20 PM

I have always been 50/50 on them. In my experience they take 3x as long to put on than normal bolts and are a pain to get off if you need to. The main advantage over standard bolts is that you do not have to go back and tighten the bolts later after the car has heat cycled some. Normally the standard bolts only have to be retightened ones, so it really comes down to your preference.

06-23-2013, 09:50 PM	#1
Nutro Drives: 2011 2SS Synergy Green Join Date: Nov 2011 Location: Austin, Texas Posts: 3,670	Stage 8 locking header bolts Any good? I thought they were the cats ass but after searching I am not sure. The guy I bought my headers from hooked me up with some brand new ones in the box and I am tempted to use them or sell them and buy the ARP bolts or studs. __________________ L99 With a Maggie

06-23-2013, 10:06 PM	#2
BigBlock69RS Ed Drives: 2013 AGM Camaro 2SS/RS/1LE Join Date: Dec 2012 Location: Seattle, WA Posts: 951	I really like them used them on my 69, same with header to exhaust flange bolts. Worked really good little anti sieze and you are golden. __________________

06-23-2013, 10:11 PM	#3
axis Search Ninja Drives: 2010 Black 2SS/RS A6 Join Date: Oct 2009 Location: Central Ark Posts: 7,183	You know what i'd suggest you do but i'll make it easy for you JUST THIS ONE TIME. http://www.camaro5.com/forums/showth...g+header+bolts FWIW, I used your exact title header in the search box. __________________ 2010 Black 2SS/RS A6 Halltech CF 102 fed GPI modded intake manifold Bo (knows) White ported TB Kooks LT's/ Dynomax VT Pfadted (springs/sways) Dyno tuned by Rhino and GPI I once parallel parked a train.

06-23-2013, 11:52 PM	#5
rberns Drives: 2011 Camaro 2SS/RS Join Date: Apr 2011 Location: US Posts: 3,291 View My Garage	Haha, my thread is useful! I acually just ended up going with my OEM. __________________ 2011 Camaro 2SS/RS, Circle D 3200, ADM Transmission Cooler, BTR Valvetrain, Cam Motion .621 .595 228/244 113+4, ARH 1 7/8 full exhaust, Cold Air Inductions, Katech C5R TC, Melling HV, BTR SLR lifters, Trunion Upgrade, LS2 Dampner, LS9 head gaskets, Bo White PTB, MM can, GFX, Subs, B&M Deep transmission pan, Holley fuel rail, Proform valve covers, relocated coil packs

06-24-2013, 08:40 AM	#6
litle88 V8 Lounge member #2 Drives: 2001 Ws6 Join Date: Sep 2009 Location: Burbank,IL Posts: 6,373	^^^lol yup I've had the same OEM bolts on my fourth gen since 2001 with an Ls1 now it's got an Ls3 with the same bolts lol. They have never backed off either. Lol __________________ 2001 ws6, 40k miles, Ls3 416 stroker, short block built by PER the rest by me. LPE Ls3 heads milled to 12-1 comp, FAST 102, NW 102, kooks 2", dual DMH cutouts, Magnaflow C/B, BTR cam + springs. Full UMI suspension.

06-24-2013, 11:11 AM	#7
2012-2SS Drives: 2012 Camaro 2SS/RS Join Date: Dec 2011 Location: Dover, NH Posts: 678	OEM bolts work fine but if you have them you might as well use them. Sent from my Galaxy S3 __________________ 2012 Camaro 2SS/RS, Hurst Short Throw, IdealG M/C, Pypes Pipe Bomb, LSR Cold Air Intake, LSR Toe Links/Lower Control Arms Clear Image headers, high flows, Slowhawk tune 1974 Chevy K10 Built 355, FAST EZ EFI, 5speed 2000 Chevy Tahoe LT 5.3L, Slowhawk tune

06-24-2013, 12:35 PM	#9
chef-beavis Drives: IOM 2013 2SS/RS, Greenie, 06 FXSTBi Join Date: Apr 2009 Location: Turd Town, WI Posts: 1,585	I have used studs in the past and Stage 8 header bolts, on my old-school Cutlass that had a SBC in it. The studs worked well but I continued to have issues. The Stage 8 ended the problem and I had none come loose and lost no gaskets for the last 8 years or so that I owned the car. I can say they were not a great grade of stainless, though. They eventually corroded.

06-24-2013, 05:20 PM	#11
MarylandSpeed Account Suspended Drives: 2012 ZL1 & 2010 2SS/RS Join Date: Jul 2009 Location: Maryland Posts: 3,378	I have always been 50/50 on them. In my experience they take 3x as long to put on than normal bolts and are a pain to get off if you need to. The main advantage over standard bolts is that you do not have to go back and tighten the bolts later after the car has heat cycled some. Normally the standard bolts only have to be retightened ones, so it really comes down to your preference.