DIY Hurst Short Throw Shifter Install - Pix and Video - Page 8 - Camaro5 Chevy Camaro Forum / Camaro ZL1, SS and V6 Forums

45thCamaro · 07-25-2013, 05:51 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TAG UR IT

From what I remembered, the instructions were for the V8 shifters only. It's been a LONG time. I honestly don't have any idea what you were talking about with springs and hate to say that if you would have asked, I wouldn't have been able to tell you. Sorry... Would liked to have helped.

You have the stock GM hurst shifter. Nothing wrong with it. If I were you, I'd stick with it. This H shifter (with the white ball) has a tiny bit shorter throw. It's a great shifter and with the brass bushings...really can't be beat (IMHO).

On the v6, inside of the upper dust boot (inside the car) if you look through the top of the boot, you can see what looks like a series of metal bars, think a little thicker than a paper clip. These "springs" are what keep the shifter in the neutral position I am gathering. According to the instructions thy hurst gives you, it says it will be necessary to work the springs in order to remove the stock shifter. This is done either by stretching the springs apart or by completely removing them. That's it. That's all hurst says about it. No pictures, no updated video online, nothing. They don't even make mention of it in the video. I believe the narrator of the video says that this is video is for v8 and v6 applications. I could be wrong. I called hurst, left voicemails for their supposed top tech guy extension 481. He never called me back, they know what the problem is, I jus think its ridiculous that you can sell a product and not give a detailed set of instructions for that model. You can't get to the springs, unless you do one of two things. Either cut open the dust boot gaming in you access to try and remove them or if you go underneath the car and look at the housing where the shifter goes into the car, you will see little rubber tits that are around the perimeter of the metal bracket. You would have to cut these in order to take the dust boot off. It does not look possible to push them back through the bracket and to remove that dust boot. I tried and couldn't do it.

For anyone who gets stuck on the removing this from their 6, I got mine out by pulling up through the car. I pulled up as much as I could then pulled it over towards 5&6 and twisted. And pulled up. It is come out that way. I tried to hammer it out and nothing worked. I actually think I bent my stocked shifter removing it. Not sure of if it comes bent like that from the factory.

The install was easy, it was just that one part. If hurst would pull their head out of their ass and do the right thing by including the documentation or producing another video for us v6 owners I would be able to give tem better feedback. Right now, I cannot recommend them to anyone because of their lack of customer service.

CamaroJoe96 · 07-26-2013, 11:50 AM

Please refer to a thread I created on removing the centering springs on v6's. No BS, no removing the boot, just plain and simple!

45thCamaro · 07-26-2013, 07:00 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by CamaroJoe96

Please refer to a thread I created on removing the centering springs on v6's. No BS, no removing the boot, just plain and simple!

Somebody should include a link in the begging of this thread to that topic. It will save them much time searching.

rgrmoreira13 · 10-11-2013, 04:14 PM

This tutorial is awesome. When i get the short throw shifter I will do it myself. And these instruction will help out.

DARK AGE 53 · 10-12-2013, 07:48 AM

Maybe I missed it here but didn't see anyone mentioning lubing the nylon bushings with the supplied grease, the Hurst youtube video also doesn't mention it. I would think if the bushings were lubricated with the grease in the first place there wouldn't so many problems, that's what I plan to do when I do my install.

45thCamaro · 10-12-2013, 08:54 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DARK AGE 53

Maybe I missed it here but didn't see anyone mentioning lubing the nylon bushings with the supplied grease, the Hurst youtube video also doesn't mention it. I would think if the bushings were lubricated with the grease in the first place there wouldn't so many problems, that's what I plan to do when I do my install.

Maybe because it's nylon? I will one day pick up a metal bushing for it. Heard that it cures some headaches.

DARK AGE 53 · 10-12-2013, 09:55 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 45thCamaro

Maybe because it's nylon? I will one day pick up a metal bushing for it. Heard that it cures some headaches.

If it's petroleum based grease it could cause a problem, in any case I have aerospace grade pure silicone in a tube I can use.

*TAG UR IT* · 10-13-2013, 01:57 PM

Just use the brass bushings. Anything nylon will wear over time. How do I know? I went through two sets. The metal ones finally fixed the problem....the shifter getting loose over time. You won't realize it until one day someone mentions it or you get behind the wheel of someone else's who's shifter is new. The difference is unreal.

Brass bushings or GO HOME!

DARK AGE 53 · 10-13-2013, 02:23 PM

So who sells the brass bushings?

*TAG UR IT* · 10-14-2013, 12:49 AM

I know Apex had them on his site for a while. Then there were two other guys on here selling them. I think one of them was xapilot?? Check the FS section and Apex's site. See if you can find someone with them. I know there's a couple threads on them.

DARK AGE 53 · 10-14-2013, 10:16 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TAG UR IT

I know Apex had them on his site for a while. Then there were two other guys on here selling them. I think one of them was xapilot?? Check the FS section and Apex's site. See if you can find someone with them. I know there's a couple threads on them.

I had already done a search and came up empty, looks like the people who had some made no longer do. Phastek Performance has a youtube (

) showing them but it looks like they no longer carry them, they have the upgraded Hurst kit, which I'm not impressed with.

*TAG UR IT* · 10-14-2013, 12:48 PM

Well, we need to get someone moving on these. They are in demand....and it seems no one has them. Maybe I can get someone to make them and we can sell them in the C5 store.... Hrm....

DARK AGE 53 · 10-14-2013, 01:38 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TAG UR IT

Well, we need to get someone moving on these. They are in demand....and it seems no one has them. Maybe I can get someone to make them and we can sell them in the C5 store.... Hrm....

I've seen a couple of different versions of the brass bushings, seems like the one shown in the Phastek Performance video would be the easies to make.

If you start to sell them let me know, thanks.

punkindave · 10-14-2013, 02:01 PM

Just an FYI for those with 2013 SS (and possibly other models)
My stock shift knob was totally different than the Hurst instructions show. It is retained with a torx screw into the shifter and the only way to "pry it out" (as the directions suggest) will break the damn thing (which I did)

On examination (after it finally broke apart), I saw that the chrome collar on the boot should be twisted to unlock and slid down to expose the torx screw that once removed the knob comes right off.. Of course the supplied OEM shift lever that's supposed to be used with the OEM knob and boot doesn't work.. What a PITA.. I used long hemostats to pull the driver side of the boot back on!
Love this shifter, now it feels right!!

07-26-2013, 11:50 AM	#100
CamaroJoe96 Drives: 2013 Full Bolt on LFX M6 Join Date: Jan 2013 Location: Chicago,Illinois Posts: 417	Please refer to a thread I created on removing the centering springs on v6's. No BS, no removing the boot, just plain and simple! __________________

10-11-2013, 04:14 PM	#102
rgrmoreira13 Drives: 2015 2SS 1LE Join Date: Apr 2013 Location: Miami WADE County Posts: 1,127 View My Garage	This tutorial is awesome. When i get the short throw shifter I will do it myself. And these instruction will help out. __________________ Specs TSP Stage 2 Boosted Cam 227/235 at 114 LSA Fore Innovation Triple pump staged (Walbro 342 primary and 2x Walbro 450 secondaries) Procharger D1x with a 3.85 pulley ID1050x Injectors Flex Fuel Sensor Monster LT1 Twin Disk Clutch Holley Sniper Efi Intake Manifold NW 103mm Boosted TB 747rwhp at 12psi on E85

10-12-2013, 07:48 AM	#103
DARK AGE 53 Drives: 2010 SS Join Date: Aug 2006 Location: Mi./Al. Posts: 829	Maybe I missed it here but didn't see anyone mentioning lubing the nylon bushings with the supplied grease, the Hurst youtube video also doesn't mention it. I would think if the bushings were lubricated with the grease in the first place there wouldn't so many problems, that's what I plan to do when I do my install. __________________ POW/MIA - YOU ARE LOST BUT NOT FORGOTTEN IN SOUTHEAST ASIA

10-13-2013, 02:23 PM	#107
DARK AGE 53 Drives: 2010 SS Join Date: Aug 2006 Location: Mi./Al. Posts: 829	So who sells the brass bushings? __________________ POW/MIA - YOU ARE LOST BUT NOT FORGOTTEN IN SOUTHEAST ASIA

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punkindave The Great Punkin Drives: 2013 2SS M6 Join Date: Oct 2013 Location: Bethlehem, PA Posts: 185	Just an FYI for those with 2013 SS (and possibly other models) My stock shift knob was totally different than the Hurst instructions show. It is retained with a torx screw into the shifter and the only way to "pry it out" (as the directions suggest) will break the damn thing (which I did) On examination (after it finally broke apart), I saw that the chrome collar on the boot should be twisted to unlock and slid down to expose the torx screw that once removed the knob comes right off.. Of course the supplied OEM shift lever that's supposed to be used with the OEM knob and boot doesn't work.. What a PITA.. I used long hemostats to pull the driver side of the boot back on! Love this shifter, now it feels right!!