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Old 02-01-2010, 11:34 AM   #15
nuptualnemesis
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To SRT10KLLR:
I am sorry, I called the trailing arms "Lower control arms" in my mods list. Thanks for pointing it out, I have now corrected it.

I also tried the upper toe rods with no noticeable difference. Sub frame bushing helped a little but I think Sway bar helped more and cheaper and easier.

You should be able to beat my 12:61 bolt on ET. I only had 20" Nittos, AR Headers and the TA's, with a gutter vent extension from my stock air box to the lower grill (old school). As I remember it was only my second time to the track & I this was my first Stick car. I believe it was late September hot and humid. I was trying to hold out for the Vararam intake. I put the cam in because I wanted more power and I got tired of waiting for bolt ons or a good intake. Originally planned on waiting a year on the cam because of the warranty. BLSP and I were both going to SCR and trading who had the fastest time slips. His automatic beat me initially. After the cam I went to Modified Motor and ran 11.94.

TIP: I had removed the stock water bottle. It weighs 9 or 10 lbs full. (empty it) I picked up a small Kia washer reservoir at the junk yard and installed at the bottom. I also cut out the plastic cover in the lower grill and removed the cover in the upper grill for air flow to the the intake on the outside of the radiator. (old school)

Over the track closure for holiday break I figured I needed better tires and lighter rims for lower 11s. You need to be careful with the 17s.

TIP: BMW rims will fit 2010 Camaro. The have same bolt pattern, 5 x 120mm. The 300 series has similar offset. Tirerack.com lists different rims for different 300 series models. When they get to 3 or less they usually go on clearance for $99.00. I got $2400 worth of rims for $396. The 18x8 SSR 1b. rims were listed under Camaro LT with correct offset and cleared calipers.
The 17x9 SSR 16. rims were listed under BMW M3 and did not have quite enough offset but I figured I could use a spacer. I measured clearance for my 20" one peice OZ rims and for a 17" rim I would have had 3/8 clearance on the top of the calipers. However, because the 17" SSR was a two peice rim, the front was a little smaller and was welded to the rest of the rim which did have clearance. I had to grind the top and top-front of the caliper to get them to fit with the 3/8" spacer but it came out perfect. I think a one piece 17" will work better but spacer may still be required to clear front of caliper. Safer to go with 18's. But it is hard to find an 18" rim in a 9" or 10" width. It was also hard to find the 17" rim in a 9" width. I am running a 1/2" smaller than recommended rim width for the tire but have read a little smaller hooks better on a taller tire.

I preferred the BMW rims over the Corvette rims because the vette is a 5 X 4&3/4" which I believe is a 5X115mm. They are close but most required opening up with a dremel tool, although some less expensive reproductions are loose enough to fit. I was concerned about centering issues and loosing a lug nut. A spacer is required for the vette rims and you can't use a centering ring because of the spacer. The centering ring for my Oz's worked perfect for the front rims which had the same stud diameter of 14mm as the Camaro. Some BMW's have 14mm studs and some have 12mm. The rear 17's were listed for a vehicle which has the 14mm but they fit so tight I think they were made for a 12mm stud. Worked good though because snug fit prevents centering issue with spacer. I recommend a stud as much longer as the width of the spacer. I found studs at O'Reily Auto Parts. Hammer old one out and use open lug nut and impact to pull new one in.
The advantage to the Corvette rim is they are easy to find, cheap and wide enough but they are also heavy. I test fit an 18" vette rim and the back spacing was really tight even with a 1/2" spacer. You might have to buy front rims from Tirerack.com cheap and pay more for rears with the right width elsewhere. I am sure if you wait reasonably priced 17" and 18" rims for the SS will become available.

There is a good discussion about Z06 18x10.5 rims on this thread http://www.camaro5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=31213

Last edited by nuptualnemesis; 02-03-2010 at 09:54 AM.
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Old 02-01-2010, 11:56 AM   #16
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Hey nuptualnemesis do your bmr TAs make alot of noise back there?

I had a 4th gen that I swapped out the lower control arms on and it sounded like I installed a bucket of bolts
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Old 02-01-2010, 01:48 PM   #17
nuptualnemesis
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BabyHauler View Post
Hey nuptualnemesis do your bmr TAs make alot of noise back there?

I had a 4th gen that I swapped out the lower control arms on and it sounded like I installed a bucket of bolts

No additional noise from TA's. I am still running stock muffler because I don't want a lot of racket. I can't notice any noise from TA's or Toe Rods.
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Old 02-01-2010, 02:04 PM   #18
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has anyone redlined their camaro? i have and the engine started to shutoff is that bad for the car??
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Old 02-01-2010, 02:09 PM   #19
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has anyone redlined their camaro? i have and the engine started to shutoff is that bad for the car??

i have a problem of forgetting to glace at the rpms when i launch
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Old 02-01-2010, 02:21 PM   #20
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has anyone redlined their camaro? i have and the engine started to shutoff is that bad for the car??
Its not good for the car thats for sure, but the rev limiter was put there to protect the engine so its not the worst thing ever.

I had a friend that just put his foot to the floor with the car not in gear and the car just bounced off the rev limiter for llike 7 secs and nothing happened.

Hope that helps
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Old 02-01-2010, 03:42 PM   #21
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Old 02-01-2010, 04:14 PM   #22
nuptualnemesis
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1badtie View Post
has anyone redlined their camaro? i have and the engine started to shutoff is that bad for the car??
The computer rpm limiter on my M6 would pull spark to cylinders like an after market rev limiter but it would also close the throttle blade for a second or two to slow down the revs. Just like letting off on the gas. After a couple of seconds and a gear shift the throttle would open back up and go again. You can tune the throttle cut off out of the computer tune but the spark cut out may allow it to still climb slowly.

It is bad if the springs allow valve float, but at that rpm (they probably don't). After market springs and retainers have less float. Probably does not hurt motor any more than letting off on the gas right at the rev limit. Better to shift than let off though.

Last edited by nuptualnemesis; 02-18-2010 at 10:07 AM.
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Old 02-02-2010, 09:47 AM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nuptualnemesis View Post
The computer rpm limiter on my M6 would pull spark to cylinders like an after market rev limiter but it would also close the throttle blade for a second or two to slow down the revs. Just like letting off on the gas. After a couple of seconds and a gear shift the throttle would open back up and go again. You can tune the throttle cut off out of the computer tune but the spark cut out may allow it to still climb slowly.

It is bad if the springs allow valve float at that rpm (they probably don't) but after market springs and retainers have less float. Probably does not hurt motor any more than letting off on the gas right at the rev limit. Better to shift than let off though.
Gotta say I'm liking your information!

I have been curious as to what RPM will cause the valves to float but that's a different thread. Checked out your garage because I'm going to be doing, or rather I should say I want to do, a lot of similar things to mine that you've done (especially the rim ideas!). There were no pics though :(.

Thanks again for all the tips you're doing on your car, I'll be watching closely so I know what all I can do in the future to mine.
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Old 02-02-2010, 03:31 PM   #24
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Quote:
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Gotta say I'm liking your information!

I have been curious as to what RPM will cause the valves to float but that's a different thread. Checked out your garage because I'm going to be doing, or rather I should say I want to do, a lot of similar things to mine that you've done (especially the rim ideas!). There were no pics though :(.

Thanks again for all the tips you're doing on your car, I'll be watching closely so I know what all I can do in the future to mine.
The pics of dyno graphs are in photo album in "View Public Profile" not Home Page (Sorry). Click on nuptualnemesis on left and in drop down menu click on "view public profile" then look on right in drop down menu to locate Album. I have not been able to load photos in my garage?

TIP: You might want to try the new Nitto NTO5R drag radials before smaller rims and tires. A 20X10 rim would be needed for the the 315/35/20. Article in current "correction M&FF" went from high 1.7's to 1.59 with new Nitto drag radial in "correction 17" not 19" 315/35/17" and they will soon be out in 315/35/20. They did best with 25 lb of air. after trying 16? and 20 lbs. They went from a 1.77 with old NT555R to 1.59 sixty foot with NTO5R. The tread rating is Zero. These taller tires may keep your MPH up better than shorter tires. More time in fourth gear because of shorter tires or more rear end gear may be worse than staying in third gear longer. Higher RPMs required to reach same trap MPH with either shorter tires or more gear. Big jump in transmission ratio change from third to fourth.

I have some 20x10 OZ rear rims with worn out 275/40/20 Nitto555R's. If enough people would pitch in (Smile) to help me buy some new NTO5R's I could provide back to back comparison with my MT ET Street 295/45/17's.

Last edited by nuptualnemesis; 02-04-2010 at 04:58 PM. Reason: Correction and added New Info
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Old 02-03-2010, 09:52 AM   #25
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TIP OF THE DAY:

Drive out of excessive wheel spin by letting off half way on gas pedal and roll back into it. The tire spinning RPM level determines how fast to roll back in. It is called pedaling if you have to do it more than once.

Always get out of it if you have wheel hop (feels like a shudder or knocking in the rear because you will eventually break something.[/B]
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Old 02-05-2010, 04:09 PM   #26
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TIP OF THE DAY:

Easy to wash burn out rubber off of rear quarter panels if you spray them with a coat of Spray Mist Wax or Detailer before or at the track. Spray detailer thick but wax not so thick. Detailer washes off easier but both work.

Last edited by nuptualnemesis; 02-09-2010 at 04:06 PM.
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Old 02-09-2010, 04:09 PM   #27
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TIP OF THE DAY

Stock front tires are rated for 45lb. air pressure hot. Run the max at the track for less rolling resistance and higher MPH. Stock rears seem to work best with 26 to 30lb. of air. All tracks should have an air hose handy. Fill the rears back up and let air out of fronts to drive home.
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Old 02-09-2010, 05:30 PM   #28
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All good stuff!

Keep 'em comin'
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