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Old 02-18-2013, 03:02 PM   #15
cornerspeed92


 
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sweet,nice set up.
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Old 02-18-2013, 03:56 PM   #16
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Thanks. The stopping power is unreal with track pads. I measured it out and there is 57% more pad area. ABS is real easy to find until I get my new tire setup.
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Old 02-18-2013, 05:07 PM   #17
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How much for the front brake upgrade?
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Old 02-18-2013, 05:14 PM   #18
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Depends if you piece it together yourself or buy a kit. JDP sells a kit for 1900-2100 give or take.
I pieced it together:
440 for calipers
200 for track pads
160 for lines
580 for ZL1 rotors
25 for hardware kit
So 1400 plus whatever you want to do for color. The dual cast rotors would be a couple hundred cheaper. Just gotta be resourceful when it comes to part numbers and not care what color caliper you get as a starting point.
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Old 02-18-2013, 05:54 PM   #19
2cnd chance
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Synner View Post
Depends if you piece it together yourself or buy a kit. JDP sells a kit for 1900-2100 give or take.
I pieced it together:
440 for calipers
200 for track pads
160 for lines
580 for ZL1 rotors
25 for hardware kit
So 1400 plus whatever you want to do for color. The dual cast rotors would be a couple hundred cheaper. Just gotta be resourceful when it comes to part numbers and not care what color caliper you get as a starting point.
Thanks!
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Old 02-18-2013, 07:54 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Synner View Post
Depends if you piece it together yourself or buy a kit. JDP sells a kit for 1900-2100 give or take.
I pieced it together:
440 for calipers
200 for track pads
160 for lines
580 for ZL1 rotors
25 for hardware kit
So 1400 plus whatever you want to do for color. The dual cast rotors would be a couple hundred cheaper. Just gotta be resourceful when it comes to part numbers and not care what color caliper you get as a starting point.
Don't forget the pin kit for the calipers, plus brake fluid...and while your doing it, install a clutch reservoir at the same time...I bought the JDP kit, powdercoated red to match, ready to install....
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Old 02-18-2013, 08:36 PM   #21
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Thats the 25 for hardware kit. 2-3 bottles of Motul depending on if its the first or second flush with good fluid.
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Old 02-18-2013, 09:07 PM   #22
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Originally Posted by CrystalRedTintcoat View Post
From the owner's manual;

Racing or Other Competitive Driving

Racing or competitive driving may
affect the vehicle warranty. See the warranty book before using the vehicle for racing or other competitive driving.

Notice: If you use the vehicle for
racing or other competitive driving, the engine may use more oil than it would with normal use.
Low oil levels can damage the engine. For information on how to add oil, see Engine Oil on
page 10‐13.

Be sure to check the oil level often during racing or other competitive driving and keep the
level at or near the upper mark that shows the proper operating range on the engine oil dipstick.

For racing or competitive driving, it is recommended that the brake fluid be replaced with a high performance brake fluid that has a dry boiling point greater than 279°C (534°F).

After conversion to the high performance brake fluid, follow the brake fluid service recommendations outlined by the fluid manufacturer. Do not use silicone or DOT-5 brake fluids.

ZL1 and 1LE: For racing and competitive driving, the vehicle load should be limited to the driver only and no cargo. The tires should be inflated to at least 180 kPa (26 psi).

If the vehicle is used for racing or other competitive driving, the rear axle fluid temperatures may be higher than would occur in normal driving. GM recommends that the rear axle fluid be drained and refilled with new fluid after every 24 hours of racing or competitive
driving. See Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 11‐12.

For extended track use, GM recommends installing a rear differential cooler to protect the rear axle. This excludes the ZL1 as it has a rear differential cooler as
standard equipment.

For track use only, it is recommended that the oil control kit be installed to prevent excessive oil
consumption. This kit is available through your dealer.
Notice: Extended track operation without this kit installed may result in a low oil level and could result in engine damage.

To prepare the Camaro ZL1 or SS brake system for track events and racing, the high performance brake burnish described below should be completed.

Brake Burnishing

New brake pads must be burnished
before racing or other competitive driving.

Notice: These procedures are specific to the ZL1 or Camaro SS brake package. This procedure should not be run on other Camaro models as damage may
result.

Notice: The new vehicle break‐in period should be completed before performing the brake burnish procedure or damage may occur to the powertrain/ engine. See New Vehicle Break-In on page 9‐16.

When performed as instructed, these procedures will not damage the brakes. During the burnishing
procedure, the brake pads will smoke and produce an odor. The braking force and pedal travel may increase. After the procedure is complete, the brake pads may appear white at the rotor contact.

Run this procedure in a safe manner and in compliance with all local and state ordinances/laws regarding motor vehicle operation. Run this procedure only on dry pavement.

Racing/Track Brake Burnish Procedure

Notice: Brake pedal fade will occur during this track burnish procedure and can cause brake pedal travel and force to increase. This could extend stopping distance until the brakes are fully burnished.

1. Apply the brakes 25 times starting 100 km/h (60 mph) to 50 km/h (30 mph) while decelerating at 0.4 g. This is a medium brake application. Drive for at least 1 km (0.6 mi) between applying the brakes. This first step may be skipped if there are more than 320 km (200 miles) on the brake pads.

2. Repeatedly apply the brakes from 100 km/h (60 mph) to 25 km/h (15 mph) while decelerating at 0.8 g. This is a hard brake application, without activating the Antilock Brake System. Drive for at least 1 km (0.6 mi) between stops. Repeat until brake pedal travel starts to increase. Depending on conditions this should take no longer than 25 brake applications.

3. Cool down: Drive at 100 km/h (60 mph) for approximately 15 km (10 mi) without using brakes.

4. Apply the brakes 25 times from 100 km/h (60 mph) to 50 km/h (30 mph) while decelerating at 0.4 g. This is a medium brake application. Drive for at least
1 km (0.6 mi) between applications.

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Good information here! Big thanks to CrystalRedTintcoat for posting all this.

Does the warranty say anything about racing or competition use?

Michael
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Old 02-19-2013, 01:01 AM   #23
Lio Martinez
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So even if we buy a big brake kit 6 piston from like baer, brembo, wilwood etc the clutch reservoir needs to be replaced ?
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Old 02-19-2013, 08:27 AM   #24
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Originally Posted by Lio Martinez View Post
So even if we buy a big brake kit 6 piston from like baer, brembo, wilwood etc the clutch reservoir needs to be replaced ?
Should be done on all the LS3s. Cheap insurance.

tramtwo posted this on the go
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Old 02-20-2013, 06:54 PM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lio Martinez View Post
So even if we buy a big brake kit 6 piston from like baer, brembo, wilwood etc the clutch reservoir needs to be replaced ?
I did because of switching to Motul for the brakes. At a minimum you need to flush your brakes once a year with racing brake fluid. The clutch is such a bitch to bleed unless you put a remote bleeder in. And that requires you dropping the trans to install it. I still run DOT3 in the clutch and have never experienced a soft clutch, even on back to back 95 degree race days. I just suck out the reservoir and refill and pump the clutch a few times to refresh it. Eventually I'll install the Tick bleeder line I bought, just not up to dropping the trans at the moment.
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Old 02-21-2013, 03:43 AM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Michael2000 View Post
Good information here! Big thanks to CrystalRedTintcoat for posting all this.

Does the warranty say anything about racing or competition use?

Michael
Dunno. Will have to check later. The manual gives full instructions for track use ...


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