04-14-2010, 02:35 AM | #1 |
Drives: Orange 2SS/RS LS3 Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Southside Chicago
Posts: 171
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Junkman, your the man! question though...
First off junkman let me say your the man. i watched at least half of your 83 videos on youtube haha. i've been washing cars the complete wrong way my hole life! All i did was the rinse, foam, and 2 bucket with a really nice mitt and WOW what a difference on just washing it right.
two things... i know you said if its new, or never been clayed... then clay it, but please tell me this one more time haha im afriad im gonna hurt my baby also, after a clay, polish, and wax what should be the normal routine after its been driven, gets dirty, rains ect...? just a 2 bucket wash until the wax runs thin? or polish and wax? hopefully some one else is wondering or else this is a pointless post and should have been a pm... figured it might help some others though thanks again junkman!!! im going to be using your tips and using them on my moms trailblazer... drop a wax has never touched it and she only took it threw the car wash when it was necessary..... needless to say the paint looks horrible so i'll post some before and after pics soon so you can see how i did and HOPEFULLY show how easy u made it |
04-14-2010, 06:01 AM | #2 |
Drives: 10 1LT SIM; 91 B4C sleeper Z Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Ft. Mitchell, Alabama
Posts: 7,199
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Did you do the baggie test over your car? If you feel those bumps during the test, you need to clay. I've never heard of a clay bar hurting the finish, but make sure you spray with the detail spray before using the clay on that spot.
Do that, then run the baggie over again. should just glide over now and no bumps. Regular washes and occasional waxing will keep that finish looking sweet! Your post isn't pointless.
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04-14-2010, 10:46 AM | #3 | |
Detailing Connoisseur
Drives: 2010 Rally Yellow 2LT RS Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: Lakewood, ca
Posts: 1,131
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Quote:
However it is possible to cause some marring in the finish with a clay bar if your surface is not properly lubricated with some detail spray. If there is any loose dirt on the surface of the paint, and you didn't spray enough detail spray; the clay will just drag that dirt across the paint, causing marring. Once you have polished and waxed the car; your done. Just routine washing "Junkman Style" and a occasional wax (depending on the product your using) will suffice.
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04-14-2010, 08:36 PM | #4 |
Drives: Orange 2SS/RS LS3 Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Southside Chicago
Posts: 171
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awesome, thanks guys... before i clay i'll just wash it twice "junkman style" haha
just the thought of rubbing a hard piece of clay on the paint even with some lubricant is just SCARY!!! just needed a little reassurance i guess im still going to use the beat up trailblazer as my test subject first, then maybe the cobalt before i lay a finger on the camaro haha |
04-14-2010, 09:32 PM | #5 | |
Detailing Connoisseur
Drives: 2010 Rally Yellow 2LT RS Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: Lakewood, ca
Posts: 1,131
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Quote:
You sound like me.. I try everything on my wifes car first.. Trust me after you clay a car once, you'll be so impressed with the results you'll clay everything you own
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04-15-2010, 04:10 AM | #6 |
Drives: Orange 2SS/RS LS3 Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Southside Chicago
Posts: 171
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haha! tomorrow i order the clay, detail spray, swirl and haze, polish and wax and pads... found the porter cable berried in the garage so i should be good to go once its shipped... i've never actually "restored" paint before so i'll have to throw a before and after together to show how easy junkman made it and hopefully give some others some confidence.
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04-15-2010, 07:04 AM | #7 | |
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Clay can sometimes not get everything. I also when I first clayed used little pressure. Junkman really saturated the surface and put pressure on the clay. After seeing that, I was finally able to get the concrete sealer overspray off of my car. I still managed to turn the orange pad gray on the camry for the stuff that the clay bar didn't get. |
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04-21-2010, 08:22 PM | #8 |
"Detailing Devil Dog"
Drives: 2001 Corvette Coupe Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Louisville, KY
Posts: 2,730
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So Sully, how'd it go?
As for your questions, there is something that you must understand. Everything that you do in the detailing process is done for a reason. You ask the question, "after a clay, polish, and wax what should be the normal routine after its been driven, gets dirty, rains ect...? just a 2 bucket wash until the wax runs thin? or polish and wax?" I in turn ask you the following questions: Why do you polish the paint? Why do you wax the paint? Lastly, why do you 2-bucket wash the car? There is a reason that you do those things and there is a way to verify that they need to be done. You look at the car and see that it is dirty. That verifies the reason for a 2-bucket wash. You do a 2-bucket wash because it eliminates putting swirls into your paint. Let's talk about polishing. Polishing is done to remove scratches from the paint. If you look at the paint and see NO scratches, then why would you polish it? Answer, you wouldn't because the conditions for polishing (scratches being present) has not been met. Thus, if you know why you are polishing your paint, you will also know WHEN it is necessary. Now let me add this to the polishing equation. There are all types of polishes on the market that address the various levels of damage that you may see. Once you have removed all the damage from your paint, you should NEVER have to use an aggressive polish again. As a matter of fact, the lightest polish that you can find should be the only polish you'll need to fix that occasional scratch. If you are constantly having to go to something like SHR, then you are evidently doing something majorly wrong! FMP should be the only polish you should need after doing a total paint correction, providing you actually removed all the damage with SHR. Now there's the wax. The only thing you can do is follow the manufacturer's recommendation. If they say the product will last 2 months and you wash the car 3 times a week, knock off one month and apply it once a month. If you keep it in the garage and never drive it, wax it every 2 months. I always knock a month off the manufacturer's recommendation as I think they tend to be a little bit extreme with their claims. Anyway, there is no "wax detector" that you can buy to verify what is on your paint. Last of all, clay your car as I do in my videos and you will be surprised at what it will remove. You are not going to damage your paint unless you drop the clay and reuse it, or don't keep the area lubricated. I will be in the Chicago area for the Bloomington Gold Corvettes this summer. You can drop by the Adam's booth for some up close tutorials.
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04-21-2010, 08:56 PM | #9 | |
Drives: 2010 2SS IOM L99 Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: LOUISVILLE,KY..
Posts: 7,545
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Quote:
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04-21-2010, 09:15 PM | #10 |
"Detailing Devil Dog"
Drives: 2001 Corvette Coupe Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Louisville, KY
Posts: 2,730
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Food? Bring it on!
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04-21-2010, 10:09 PM | #11 |
SSMOKEM
Drives: 2010 SummitWhite 2SS/RS Camaro Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Bismarck, ND
Posts: 16
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Wow good Info! Thanks Junkman!
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04-21-2010, 10:11 PM | #12 |
"Detailing Devil Dog"
Drives: 2001 Corvette Coupe Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Louisville, KY
Posts: 2,730
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