Brake squealing

[mikeg]

hello everyone

checking to see if anyone with new Z28 has encountered brake squealing when coming to a stop

driving me nuts with only 600 miles on the car

any ideas to get rid of it

thanks
mike

[bptman]

Hi Bptman here from Pa. Yes My car #143 will let out a few rather loud chattering squeals from the front brakes at times. Usually comming to a stop at very light pedal pressure. If I apply more pedal force the squealing stops. I checked the calp. and the pads. Did see a lot of brake dust on the rotors blew off with compressed air. Noise was gone for a little while and then came back. I am going to say it is a thing you should expect with that large of a surface area passing through the pads. But she sure do STOP.

[mikeg]

thanks Bptman

mike here vin #142

I will try the blowing off the brake rotor dust with air compressor

did you do the "break in" procedure on the brakes?

[bptman]

Hi Mike, No I did not. In fact I forgot about it until you just mention it. I Just did the 1500 mile Oil change. I will read up on the brake deal tonite. Thanks for the reminder.

[stratman2SSRS]

Hey Mike, that squeal is caused from having BIG BOY MAN BRAKES on your car.
Racing pads squeal.
Get used to it, there is nothing they can do at the dealership for you.
Yeah, it's a little embarrasing.
It will always come back.
I've got the same problem.

[backtotintops]

The burnishing procedure in the owner's manual is wrong...it is not 5 it is 50 10-60-10 runs consecutive then 10 mile drive to cool...might help with the squeal.

[Skylane765]

I have never heard it, the manual says they may squeal. I am sure some one will trade some steel non squealing brakes for the racing brakes you have. It's common for that type of brake to squeal, remember that's one of the reasons they are not used on many cars. Burnishing may help but that's if you are going to track it.

So what is right. 50 times go from 10 to 60 back to 10?

[LT4SS1997]

What is the break in procedures for the brakes?

[backtotintops]

??? that pdf is wrong...we have been through this...it is not 5. There is another whole thread about this and a vette guy stepped in and gave real world instructions...basically what I wrote above.

[brt3]

Originally Posted by backtotintops

??? that pdf is wrong...we have been through this...it is not 5. There is another whole thread about this and a vette guy stepped in and gave real world instructions...basically what I wrote above.

Sorry; didn't think and was just posting to try and help. Total Brain Freeze...

[brt3]

Originally Posted by backtotintops

The burnishing procedure in the owner's manual is wrong...it is not 5 it is 50 10-60-10 runs consecutive then 10 mile drive to cool...might help with the squeal.

I agree with this, though a reputable source told me 25 reps. I think the Z06 with the same brakes says 50 in the OM, and it took me way more than 25 to get my brakes to come in...

[brt3]

Here is the burnishing procedure from the ZR1; to make up for posting inaccurate info (too much work; too little sleep!) I've pasted the text and included a PDF version as an attachment. I've been told that 25 reps (of 0-60-0) are required to burnish the Z/28 brakes for track usage. However, the ZR1 procedure calls for 50 reps.

Personally, I really wish someone from Chevy would weigh in here -- this is important and we're flying blind here. IMHO the minimum number of reps would be 30 to 40, as 25 didn't do the job for me -- I still had a mushy pedal once the brakes began heating towards the end of a track session. I believe the procedure listed for the ZR1 is far closer to "correct" than either what Chevy mistakenly published in the Z/28 OM or the 25 rep method that was suggested as correct...

Corvette ZR1 Brake Burnish Procedure
By techeditor on December 1, 2008 2:32 PM | No Comments
This is a followup to the article on ZR1 ceramic brakes in the November 2008 issue of TechLink.



NOTICE: These procedures are specific to the ZR1 with ceramic brake rotors.

This procedure should not be run on other Corvette models as damage may result.



NOTICE: The new vehicle break-in period should be completed before performing the brake burnish procedure or damage may occur to the powertrain/engine.



When performed as instructed, these procedures will not damage the brakes. During the burnishing procedure, the brake pads will smoke and produce an odor. The braking force and pedal travel may increase. After the procedure is complete, the brake pads may appear white at the rotor contact.

Street High Performance Brake Burnishing Procedure

Run this procedure in a safe manner and in compliance with all local and state ordinances/laws regarding motor vehicle operation. Run this procedure only on dry pavement.



1. From a stop, accelerate as rapidly as possible without activating traction control to a speed of 60 mph.



2. Use enough pedal force to completely stop the vehicle in 4 to 5 seconds. If ABS activates, braking is too hard.



3. Repeat steps 1 and 2, 50 times. This should take about 10 minutes.



4. After completing the 50 stops, cool the brakes by driving for 8km/5miles at 97kph/60mph. As with all high performance brake systems, some amount of brake squeal is normal.


Racing/Track Brake Burnish Procedure
 

To prepare the ZR1 brake system for track events and racing, complete the Street High Performance Brake Burnish as described above. Then, complete the following additional procedure to make the ZR1 brake system ready for track events and racing.



This procedure should be run only on a track and only on dry pavement.

 

NOTICE: Brake pedal fade will occur during this track burnish procedure and can cause brake pedal travel and force to increase. This could extend stopping distance until the brakes are fully burnished.
 


1. Drive a normal first lap and not too aggressive.



2. Laps 2 and 3 should be gradually driven faster and more aggressively, while allowing for reduced brake output and increased stopping distance due to brake fade.



3. Lap 4 as near to full speed as possible, while allowing for reduced brake output and increased stopping distance due to brake fade.



4. Laps 5 and 6 should be cool-down laps.



5. Lap 7 should be normal driving or an easy-out lap.