Clutch issues

[O2BQIK]

Anyone else having problems with the clutch on the SS manual? I've got 4900 miles and since new I get a burning stink anytime the clutch is under heavy load (starting from a stop on an incline or launching firmly). Initially I thought it might just need a little time to break in, but it's still happening. One time the pedal stayed on the ground when I let up. The clutch engagement point has been shrinking and it occasionally chatters. It seems like a hydraulic issue to me.

I took it to the dealership and initially they claimed there was nothing wrong with it, so I went back over and took the shop foreman for a drive. One hard launch and it immediately smelled. They'll have another look tomorrow. However they did mention that there is a service bulletin about the clutch where it sticks, and that it is currently under investigation by the engineering department (focused on the hydraulics). I took that to mean that others were having the same issue.

[Eski7399]

I remember smelling it too. Have not noticed it for a while though. I'll try to pay attention now that you posted this. Thanks for the heads up if nothing else.

[Corsec]

Please keep us updated on your progress. I have been fighting the same problem and I also had the clutch hang up half way engaged during a moderate takeoff switching from 1st to 2nd. It wouldn't go back down, ended up getting my foot under it and was able to pop it up. Dealer says there is nothing wrong with it. I will be very interested to see what you find out.

[Downwithopp]

Mine did that for a while as well and occassionaly it will smell getting stuck in traffic up a steep hill in SF, but thats me being lazy with it rather then it being faulty.

Hope you figure it out!

[Russell James]

Sounds like a slave cylinder issue. Probably needs a new one.

[steeleshark2]

Well, its the slave cylinder but you do not need another one. I had this issue (it sticking) and found a fix. Goto auto store or Walmart, get a large plastic syringe and high temp DOT 4 brake fluid. Suck out your old brake fluid, and put the high temp Dot 4 in. Pump the brakes and clutch and do it all again. If you get the small bottle of fluid get 2 or 3 of them. It is only a few dollars a bottle. What is happening is that your brake/clutch fluid is boiling and not creating enough pressure to push your clutch peddle back up during an extended period of heavy use. New fluid with a higher boiling temp fixed this for me and the clutch actually feels better then it did when brand new. As for the smell, it is your clutch getting hot from heavy use. Just do not ride the clutch and you will not get the smell unless in heavy traffic. Then try to stop and go a little less meaning you do not have to move up if the car in front of you only moved 5 feet. I hope this helps!!

[Michael_Js]

Originally Posted by steeleshark2

Well, its the slave cylinder but you do not need another one. I had this issue (it sticking) and found a fix. Goto auto store or Walmart, get a large plastic syringe and high temp DOT 4 brake fluid. Suck out your old brake fluid, and put the high temp Dot 4 in. Pump the brakes and clutch and do it all again. If you get the small bottle of fluid get 2 or 3 of them. It is only a few dollars a bottle. What is happening is that your brake/clutch fluid is boiling and not creating enough pressure to push your clutch peddle back up during an extended period of heavy use. New fluid with a higher boiling temp fixed this for me and the clutch actually feels better then it did when brand new. As for the smell, it is your clutch getting hot from heavy use. Just do not ride the clutch and you will not get the smell unless in heavy traffic. Then try to stop and go a little less meaning you do not have to move up if the car in front of you only moved 5 feet. I hope this helps!!

I know this was posted in another thread. I tried this, and my clutch still did the same thing. Under a fast, heavy launch, the clutch sticks 1/2 way up and nothing but burnt smell and not much of a take off. I don't let it off slow, but don't pop it up either. Happened 1 more time after I changed with DOT4!

If it keeps up, I will take her in to the dealer... ;(

[TommyTSquared]

I kept reading that during reverse and incline this was the norm for the car for whatever reason. I'll be interested to see what they say about this as well. As far as the launching goes, smelling clutch is about right depending on how you're doing it (feathering, dropping/popping/sidestepping, etc.).

[steeleshark2]

Originally Posted by Michael_Js

I know this was posted in another thread. I tried this, and my clutch still did the same thing. Under a fast, heavy launch, the clutch sticks 1/2 way up and nothing but burnt smell and not much of a take off. I don't let it off slow, but don't pop it up either. Happened 1 more time after I changed with DOT4!

If it keeps up, I will take her in to the dealer... ;(

Hmm, then probably is your slave cylinder.

[ffrcobra_65]

Originally Posted by steeleshark2

Well, its the slave cylinder but you do not need another one. I had this issue (it sticking) and found a fix. Goto auto store or Walmart, get a large plastic syringe and high temp DOT 4 brake fluid. Suck out your old brake fluid, and put the high temp Dot 4 in. Pump the brakes and clutch and do it all again. If you get the small bottle of fluid get 2 or 3 of them. It is only a few dollars a bottle.

not trying to be a smart-a$$ but how do you know when you have sucked out all the dot3 and know at what point the system only has the new dot4? Or do you feel the mixture won't hurt the clutch or brake system?

[Michael_Js]

Not 100% sure on this, but for 1 thing, the colors are different and I believe the weights. Didn't really seem like they mixed very well when I did mine. I just kept siphoning out what was in the reservoir, then pumped the clutch, siphoned again until no more came into the reservoir. Then I replaced and pumped again, and noticed more of the other color fluid. So, not sure if I got it all.

Didn't matter though as next Wed new rotors, pads, and SS lines go in with Motul Racing fluid

[SSE 4 2SS]

Originally Posted by ffrcobra_65

not trying to be a smart-a$$ but how do you know when you have sucked out all the dot3 and know at what point the system only has the new dot4? Or do you feel the mixture won't hurt the clutch or brake system?

The biggest issue area for this is right around the exhaust manifold area. The heat from the exhaust pre-heats the fluid and then repeated usage (pressure applied) pushes it over the egde to boiling. The best way to fix this is not via a syringe, but by either getting a flush kit from a parts house, or call around and find a brake shop that will completely flush the system with the high temp fluid. This way it is all through the system... Mixing any type of hydraulic fluid (new with old, high temp with non high temp, or DOT 3 with DOT4 etc...) is not a good idea...Flush the entire system and fugedaboutit....
Also, never ever ever ride around with your foot cocked up on the clutch pedal, ready to shift.... this, no matter how light the pressure your resting on it with your foot, will cause pre-mature wear on the throw-out bearing...Press the clutch fully to the floor, shift and let it fully out and remove your foot from the pedal... thats what the floor is for...

It is also not a great idea to rest the car on the clutch on an incline... This is where people let the clutch part way out in a low gear and use it to hold the car in place rather than using the brake... Go practice on a hill or incline where there is no traffic... Clutch in, first gear, brake applied...
you have two choices... either start letting the clutch out until you feel it begin to grab and then let off the brake give it gas and go, or use the hand brake to hold the vehicle and use your left foot on the clutch and as the car starts to go, let off the hand brake. A little practice will give you the confidence you need so that it becomes second nature in traffic...

[Stewcam]

My slave cylinder completely failed recently.

[ffrcobra_65]

Originally Posted by SSE 4 2SS

The biggest issue area for this is right around the exhaust manifold area. The heat from the exhaust pre-heats the fluid and then repeated usage (pressure applied) pushes it over the egde to boiling. The best way to fix this is not via a syringe, but by either getting a flush kit from a parts house, or call around and find a brake shop that will completely flush the system with the high temp fluid. This way it is all through the system... Mixing any type of hydraulic fluid (new with old, high temp with non high temp, or DOT 3 with DOT4 etc...) is not a good idea...Flush the entire system and fugedaboutit....
Also, never ever ever ride around with your foot cocked up on the clutch pedal, ready to shift.... this, no matter how light the pressure your resting on it with your foot, will cause pre-mature wear on the throw-out bearing...Press the clutch fully to the floor, shift and let it fully out and remove your foot from the pedal... thats what the floor is for...

It is also not a great idea to rest the car on the clutch on an incline... This is where people let the clutch part way out in a low gear and use it to hold the car in place rather than using the brake... Go practice on a hill or incline where there is no traffic... Clutch in, first gear, brake applied...
you have two choices... either start letting the clutch out until you feel it begin to grab and then let off the brake give it gas and go, or use the hand brake to hold the vehicle and use your left foot on the clutch and as the car starts to go, let off the hand brake. A little practice will give you the confidence you need so that it becomes second nature in traffic...

very good advise!

I didn't wanna sound like a know it all but I am certain it is a big No-No to mix brake/clutch fluid with anything else other than topping it off with the same as what is already in there.