Remote Wire

[SSinthedesert]

I just got through hooking up my amp and subs. I have a problem though, where is everyone running the remote turn on wire? I ran it to the fuse box in the truk but those are always hot and now when I close the driver door the sub comes on and vibrates real loud. I have to put the key back in and turn the car on before the sub will stop. Also, I have the 1SS. Any help would be appreciated, thanks!

[TonyNo]

Your best bet is to get a remote module that senses voltage on the speaker wires. Check with your local car audio store.

[Racer-X]

SS if you have the 4 guage cluster in front of your shifter there is a green wire in the plug there that is an igniction wire. you can use it to turn on your amp.

[SSinthedesert]

Don't have the cluster. But would it still be there?

[Racer-X]

I think it should still be there.

[HaZe_X]

The remote turn on wire? Why not just run it off the amp wire? On when radio on, off when radio off/car off

[Racer-X]

there is no amp wire on the non-ba system. and the one on the ba system does not turn off at the same time as the radio... so you get a nasty POP a few seconds after the system is turned off.

[SSinthedesert]

I took the bezel off that surrounds the shifter. There's four wires running to the harness, one of which is green. I'm guessn this is it?

[Racer-X]

probably, but you need to test it.

[Imjaybird]

Originally Posted by IAS

there is no amp wire on the non-ba system. and the one on the ba system does not turn off at the same time as the radio... so you get a nasty POP a few seconds after the system is turned off.

I found this out when hooking up off the white wire on teh X3, my relay pops on and off when the key is inserted, very annoying. Is there another wire in the trunk that comes on and off with just the radio?

[Moriartii]

In looking at all the wiring diagrams and such I dont think there is a wire back there. However you could always put in a relay if the popping is bad enough.
Cheers
K

[Imjaybird]

I'm gonna try the orange wire tonight, pin 1 x3. Anyone else go down this road. Worst case I will have to put in a switch, wired with white wire and turn it on after the ignition is done.

[CAMAR0]

I have an LS and needed to find a remote wire. Ended up using a $5 "add a fuse mini" connector from autozone to tap into the the console cigarette lighter power circuit. The amp kicks on and off with no popping. The circuit I used was between two relays so I had to bend the 2 prongs on the adapter about 30 deg to fit between the relays but it works perfect. Only downside is the connector is rated for 10 amps instead of 20 that the cigarette plug was made for. I hooked it to the circuit infront on the shifter with the cover since I never use it. The one inside the console is on a different 20amp fuse also inside the drivers side dash fuse panel. I ran the remote wire down and along the trim around the door, beside the cushion for the rear seat and then under the carpet to my amp. My car doesnt have the Boston speakers so this was the simplest option I could find. This would also work for people with the Boston system and want a remote wire that doesn't pop and functions just like a typical remote wire that you would typically pull from the wiring harness from a head unit. Some of the other circuits in the drivers side fuse panel would also work, but I chose this one in case something blew I would only lose a cigarette lighter and not gauges, dash lighting, etc..

Edit: Forgot to mention... The two fuses that are labeled as the power plugs... the fuse closest to the rear of the car is actually the front cigarette lighter fuse and the one towards the front of the car is for the console lighter plug.

Another thing to note is that with this type of splice you are not cutting/splicing wires. So once you have the remote wire run you can pull the fuse adapter and go back stock with no modification to the stock wiring.

Hope this is helpful.

http://www.amazon.com/Pico-0956PT-Mi...5235773&sr=8-5

[Imjaybird]

Originally Posted by CAMAR0

I have an LS and needed to find a remote wire. Ended up using a $5 "add a fuse mini" connector from autozone to tap into the the console cigarette lighter power circuit. The amp kicks on and off with no popping. The circuit I used was between two relays so I had to bend the 2 prongs on the adapter about 30 deg to fit between the relays but it works perfect. Only downside is the connector is rated for 10 amps instead of 20 that the cigarette plug was made for. I hooked it to the circuit infront on the shifter with the cover since I never use it. The one inside the console is on a different 20amp fuse also inside the drivers side dash fuse panel. I ran the remote wire down and along the trim around the door, beside the cushion for the rear seat and then under the carpet to my amp. My car doesnt have the Boston speakers so this was the simplest option I could find. This would also work for people with the Boston system and want a remote wire that doesn't pop and functions just like a typical remote wire that you would typically pull from the wiring harness from a head unit. Some of the other circuits in the drivers side fuse panel would also work, but I chose this one in case something blew I would only lose a cigarette lighter and not gauges, dash lighting, etc..

Edit: Forgot to mention... The two fuses that are labeled as the power plugs... the fuse closest to the rear of the car is actually the front cigarette lighter fuse and the one towards the front of the car is for the console lighter plug.

Another thing to note is that with this type of splice you are not cutting/splicing wires. So once you have the remote wire run you can pull the fuse adapter and go back stock with no modification to the stock wiring.

Hope this is helpful.

http://www.amazon.com/Pico-0956PT-Mi...5235773&sr=8-5

Great solution!