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Old 02-10-2015, 07:42 PM   #1
Halloween III
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Preventing Dry Start

Hi all. Each winter I store the car and it will sit. My fear is having a dry start. The goal is to crank the motor without starting it, circulating the oil. So far, two ideas were mentioned: 1) Installing a oil accumulator or 2) Pulling the Fuel Injection fuses (Mini Fuses 9 and 10). Option 2 is definitely cheaper and easier. Does anyone foresee any repercussions pulling the fuses? Thanks
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Old 02-12-2015, 06:57 AM   #2
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Gas pedal to the floor, turn key. Car will crank without starting, or so I've read. Haven't tried it.
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Old 02-12-2015, 07:18 AM   #3
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Gas pedal to the floor, turn key. Car will crank without starting, or so I've read. Haven't tried it.


Flood clear mode, also good for priming a new oil filter. Haven't tried it on the camaro either but I've only encountered one obdii car it didn't work on.
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Old 02-12-2015, 12:18 PM   #4
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I just fire mine up a few times during the winter. It'll start fine and is still lubed if it only sat for a couple months.

Keep in mind, gas is also pretty slippery. If cranking it with no injector pulse, the cyl walls are probably less protected than with fuel pulsing.

I would just fire it up. Take a long drive, half hour or more, then change the oil. Over winter, gets a lot of condensation in there, good to get the winter oil out after a long drive has cooked out a lot of the condensation.
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Old 02-12-2015, 07:10 PM   #5
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Flood clear mode, also good for priming a new oil filter. Haven't tried it on the camaro either but I've only encountered one obdii car it didn't work on.
I'd like to know if this works. If it doesn't, and the car fires up, it is going to instantly rev up with little lubrication . . . thus having the opposite effect of what the OP was looking for.
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Old 02-12-2015, 07:17 PM   #6
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My 2ss ls3 the pedal to the floor works. It'll turn over for a few seconds then stop.
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Old 02-13-2015, 11:13 AM   #7
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I'd like to know if this works. If it doesn't, and the car fires up, it is going to instantly rev up with little lubrication . . . thus having the opposite effect of what the OP was looking for.
Works great for clearing a flooded engine. I've never heard of it for any other purpose. Modern FI, rarely ever gas flooded, until maybe they start having problems.

Cars sit all the time for months at a time without starting. They still have oil coating the stuff from when it was last ran. It doesn't evap quickly like gas.

A real dry start is on a fresh build. Oil and assembly lube on all the imporant stuff. Pre-prime the oil system with either a pressurized preluber, or on the old school motors spin the oil pump with a drill. Then fire the motor.

On a modern car that has just sat for a few months, I'd just turn the key and drive it normally. It'll be fine. Sometimes you'll hear a few rattles in that first minute. And that is just lifters that have bled down over time from valve spring pressure.

Start it once a month and run it for a half hour during the winter and you won't even hear any lifters that have bled down. That and some stabil in the tank is all that is really needed.

If something sat for 10 years, I'd be lubing the cylinders and pressurizing some new oil in there and a complete fuel system flush. A couple months, I'd just hit the key.
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Old 02-14-2015, 07:57 PM   #8
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Thanks for the replies. I'm happy to hear that the flood clear mode works for an LS3. I'll see if it works for the L99 (my motor). I called the dealership and they didn't think that our particular car had such a mode. A suggestion was made to pull the fuel pump fuse instead of the injector fuse. Crank the motor over a few seconds and put the fuse back in. Maybe I'm a little cautious but those first few seconds after each winter really makes me shiver when the car goes "knock,knock" then smooths out.
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Old 02-14-2015, 08:22 PM   #9
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Accusump
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Old 02-14-2015, 11:06 PM   #10
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Hi all. Each winter I store the car and it will sit. My fear is having a dry start. The goal is to crank the motor without starting it, circulating the oil. So far, two ideas were mentioned: 1) Installing a oil accumulator or 2) Pulling the Fuel Injection fuses (Mini Fuses 9 and 10). Option 2 is definitely cheaper and easier. Does anyone foresee any repercussions pulling the fuses? Thanks
I use option 2 after winter storage. Crank it for 30 seconds or so to get oil to the top of the engine. Replace fuses and start normally.
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Old 02-16-2015, 12:17 PM   #11
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Accusump is your best bet for a wet sump system. With a dry sump, you could turn the oil pump by drill to get oil to the bearings. Flood clear mode still turns the motor over dry. It just has no spark.
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Old 02-16-2015, 01:56 PM   #12
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Accusump is your best bet for a wet sump system. With a dry sump, you could turn the oil pump by drill to get oil to the bearings. Flood clear mode still turns the motor over dry. It just has no spark.
The risk of the drill prime is forgetting to replace the cog belt Not that that has ever happened to a racecar
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Old 02-16-2015, 02:32 PM   #13
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The risk of the drill prime is forgetting to replace the cog belt Not that that has ever happened to a racecar
Lol ouch. Painful to think about. Easy to happen though in the mix of things.
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Old 02-16-2015, 02:44 PM   #14
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Just start the car.
Using just the starter will not move enough oil to get it anywhere in the engine. This way will cause more wear than just starting the car.
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