Installing an Amp into a Factor System Without Voiding the Warranty - Camaro5 Chevy Camaro Forum / Camaro ZL1, SS and V6 Forums

jiannotto9492 · 07-28-2014, 09:41 AM

*******PICTURES TO COME*******

I haven't seen this anywhere else on this forum nor have I seen it anywhere else.

So looking to save some money yet have a nice looking car I bought the 2LS. I was extremely happy with the decision and still am. However the one obvious downside to having getting the 2LS compared to my old car was the lack of bass in the stock system. The second was the fact that the car lacked an amp as well which means adding a set of sub woofers would mean getting an amp and installing it as well. All without voiding my warranty.

So to start out there are a few things you need:
Amp
Amp Installation Kit (Match the power rating to the amp)
Something to take off the battery leads
Electrical Tape
Wire Crimper
ATM 20 amp fuses
Wire Splice Connectors
Line Out Converter
Fuse Tap

Step 1: Get to the battery. For this you need to take off the plastic panel in your trunk that faces the back seat (6 screws) and with the flooring in the trunk. Unscrew the spare tire well cover and remove the spare tire and there's your battery.

Step 2: Remove the negative terminal from the battery.

Step 3: Connect the line out converter. The easiest way to get an RCA into the factor system is by splicing from the rear deck speakers. Take those wire splice connectors and set up wire the line out converter to the rear deck speakers according to the specs on the line out converter you buy. After splicing the wire I taped the splice shut just to avoid any potential opening up of the connection to prevent a short or the loss of a signal.

Rear deck speaker wiring for signals to splice.

Step 4: Wiring the positive lead from the battery to the amp.
A good amp installation kit will come with the terminals for the wires.

The fuse should be close to your battery. I set my fuse at approximately 5 inches away from the battery.

What you do here is cut the positive lead wire to the desired length for the fuse. Attach a terminal on one end using a crimper and attach it to the battery and on the other end attach it to the fuse box from the kit. From the other end of the fuse box attach the other wire from the positive lead wire you had and wire it to your amp.

Step 5: The negative lead. Now you have one of two options. Attach the negative lead to the metal in the trunk or to the battery. Due to the short distance to the battery I just attached the negative end of the amp to the battery. This can be done by going straight from the amp to the battery crimping a terminal that is attached the battery. At this point you can reattached the negative lead to you car.

Step 6: RCA cables

Common sense attach the RCA cables from the line out converter to your amp.

Step 7: Remote wire (Not all amps)

This wire will turn your amp on and off so I chose to set this up to a 12 volt source controlled by the ignition.

This wire was actually the trickiest for me. I figured I could use the fuse box in the trunk for this part and I was wrong. The next option for me was to go for the fuse box under the steering wheel.

Open the driver door and carefully pull of the panel on the side of the steering wheel.

I struck gold in this one. I took the fuse out for one of the 12v supplies to the accessory outlet. I placed that fuse along with another 20 amp fuse into the fuse tap and placed it back in the fuse box.

Either one of the two fuses labeled power outlet works

Now from the amp you're going to attach this blue wire to the remote terminal. Then with the back seat down you're going to slide this wire into the panel on the driver side wall panel in the back. This wire could be brought along the door frame as well and right up the panel going to the back of the fuse box. Cut the wire and crimp it into the fuse tap.

Step 8: Adjust your settings on the line out converter and the amp.

Step 9: Install those subs.

Step 10: Put everything back together.

Step 11: Enjoy!

lscamaro · 07-28-2014, 11:17 AM

Great write up! Can't wait for any pics you put up!! Will be using this with my upcoming install

jiannotto9492 · 07-28-2014, 11:33 AM

If the amp that you have doesn't have the remote line you could skip that step and it is even easier to install. As you won't need the fuse tap the extra fuse or worry about wiring from the trunk to the steering wheel. I figure I'll have pictures up by this weekend hopefully.

Do you have an amp that you know you want to use?

lscamaro · 07-28-2014, 12:45 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jiannotto9492

If the amp that you have doesn't have the remote line you could skip that step and it is even easier to install. As you won't need the fuse tap the extra fuse or worry about wiring from the trunk to the steering wheel. I figure I'll have pictures up by this weekend hopefully.

Do you have an amp that you know you want to use?

Not yet, still looking at my options and debating. I like the kicker dx250, alpine mrp-m500, and Rockford fosgate r500x1d

jiannotto9492 · 07-28-2014, 09:35 PM

I'm personally a fan of alpine myself. I bought a cheap set up for now. As it came with an amp and two subs in it. I did this only because I knew 10's are the biggest you can shove into the truck. I actually intend on taking the set up apart and making my own amp and speakers. But I wouldn't suggest that unless you have an electrical engineering background.

07-28-2014, 09:41 AM	#1
jiannotto9492 Drives: 2014 Red 2LS Join Date: Jul 2014 Location: Stony Brook, New York Posts: 45	Installing an Amp into a Factor System Without Voiding the Warranty *****PICTURES TO COME***** I haven't seen this anywhere else on this forum nor have I seen it anywhere else. So looking to save some money yet have a nice looking car I bought the 2LS. I was extremely happy with the decision and still am. However the one obvious downside to having getting the 2LS compared to my old car was the lack of bass in the stock system. The second was the fact that the car lacked an amp as well which means adding a set of sub woofers would mean getting an amp and installing it as well. All without voiding my warranty. So to start out there are a few things you need: Amp Amp Installation Kit (Match the power rating to the amp) Something to take off the battery leads Electrical Tape Wire Crimper ATM 20 amp fuses Wire Splice Connectors Line Out Converter Fuse Tap Step 1: Get to the battery. For this you need to take off the plastic panel in your trunk that faces the back seat (6 screws) and with the flooring in the trunk. Unscrew the spare tire well cover and remove the spare tire and there's your battery. Step 2: Remove the negative terminal from the battery. Step 3: Connect the line out converter. The easiest way to get an RCA into the factor system is by splicing from the rear deck speakers. Take those wire splice connectors and set up wire the line out converter to the rear deck speakers according to the specs on the line out converter you buy. After splicing the wire I taped the splice shut just to avoid any potential opening up of the connection to prevent a short or the loss of a signal. Rear deck speaker wiring for signals to splice. Step 4: Wiring the positive lead from the battery to the amp. A good amp installation kit will come with the terminals for the wires. The fuse should be close to your battery. I set my fuse at approximately 5 inches away from the battery. What you do here is cut the positive lead wire to the desired length for the fuse. Attach a terminal on one end using a crimper and attach it to the battery and on the other end attach it to the fuse box from the kit. From the other end of the fuse box attach the other wire from the positive lead wire you had and wire it to your amp. Step 5: The negative lead. Now you have one of two options. Attach the negative lead to the metal in the trunk or to the battery. Due to the short distance to the battery I just attached the negative end of the amp to the battery. This can be done by going straight from the amp to the battery crimping a terminal that is attached the battery. At this point you can reattached the negative lead to you car. Step 6: RCA cables Common sense attach the RCA cables from the line out converter to your amp. Step 7: Remote wire (Not all amps) This wire will turn your amp on and off so I chose to set this up to a 12 volt source controlled by the ignition. This wire was actually the trickiest for me. I figured I could use the fuse box in the trunk for this part and I was wrong. The next option for me was to go for the fuse box under the steering wheel. Open the driver door and carefully pull of the panel on the side of the steering wheel. I struck gold in this one. I took the fuse out for one of the 12v supplies to the accessory outlet. I placed that fuse along with another 20 amp fuse into the fuse tap and placed it back in the fuse box. Either one of the two fuses labeled power outlet works Now from the amp you're going to attach this blue wire to the remote terminal. Then with the back seat down you're going to slide this wire into the panel on the driver side wall panel in the back. This wire could be brought along the door frame as well and right up the panel going to the back of the fuse box. Cut the wire and crimp it into the fuse tap. Step 8: Adjust your settings on the line out converter and the amp. Step 9: Install those subs. Step 10: Put everything back together. Step 11: Enjoy! Last edited by jiannotto9492; 08-03-2014 at 09:20 PM.

07-28-2014, 11:17 AM	#2
lscamaro Drives: 2011 CGM Camaro LS A6 Join Date: Jan 2011 Location: San Antonio, Texas Posts: 10,305	Great write up! Can't wait for any pics you put up!! Will be using this with my upcoming install __________________ Click Picture for Build Thread

07-28-2014, 11:33 AM	#3
jiannotto9492 Drives: 2014 Red 2LS Join Date: Jul 2014 Location: Stony Brook, New York Posts: 45	If the amp that you have doesn't have the remote line you could skip that step and it is even easier to install. As you won't need the fuse tap the extra fuse or worry about wiring from the trunk to the steering wheel. I figure I'll have pictures up by this weekend hopefully. Do you have an amp that you know you want to use?

07-28-2014, 09:35 PM	#5
jiannotto9492 Drives: 2014 Red 2LS Join Date: Jul 2014 Location: Stony Brook, New York Posts: 45	I'm personally a fan of alpine myself. I bought a cheap set up for now. As it came with an amp and two subs in it. I did this only because I knew 10's are the biggest you can shove into the truck. I actually intend on taking the set up apart and making my own amp and speakers. But I wouldn't suggest that unless you have an electrical engineering background.