How to adjust front camber?

[hypurone]

Originally Posted by JusticePete

Oh sir, forgive me. Please post your mobile number here in the thread so I and other C5 members can call you for editorial assistance before we post.

You are forgiven....

[axis]

I think the issue may be that there is no bolt in that threaded hole to do the actual adjustment, unless they added them to the later models. There is a bolt in the rear of the car that will work but I forget which one. Pete posted the thread dimensions so they should be good to go.

[yungd83]

Anyone know where I can get the screw/bolt from

[axis]

Originally Posted by yungd83

Anyone know where I can get the screw/bolt from

I got a pair of hardened ones from Star Bolt here in Arkansas. Any place that sells bolts should have them. Just note the size and pitch from the reply above and you'll be good to go. Make sure you don't get them too long either.

[JusticePete]

Originally Posted by yungd83

Anyone know where I can get the screw/bolt from

You can order them from Pedders 248.522.8021 or find a local source for a 10mm 1.5 pitch screw.

[ICTsccaCamaro]

Is everyone leaving the adjuster bolt/screw in the knucle after the alignment or are you pulling them back out after you are done? I just aligned ours and it was a pain keeping the camber setting in while i was tightening the bolts this would have helped alot, but just wondering if one set of bolts/screws would work or if i need a set per car?

[JusticePete]

Originally Posted by ICTsccaCamaro

Is everyone leaving the adjuster bolt/screw in the knucle after the alignment or are you pulling them back out after you are done? I just aligned ours and it was a pain keeping the camber setting in while i was tightening the bolts this would have helped alot, but just wondering if one set of bolts/screws would work or if i need a set per car?

The Pontiac GTO and G8 used the same camber adjustment system and came with the camber screws installed from the factory. I would leave the screws in so they are there when needed.

[carfansince73]

I have the Hotchkis Track Pack which includes their lowering springs. When I had my car in for an alignment at the Chevy dealer, he said he couldn't get the camber right and was going to have to drill out the mount. Ended up that he could not get my wheels off since the key I have for the lugs was misplaced so he did not do any drilling. In the end, he said that he got it right (I'm doubtful since I didn't get a printout showing the final specs in green).

I guess my question is should I expect camber issues with these drop springs on the stock struts that can't be adjusted? I have noticed my inner front tires wearing more than the outside.

Thanks for any help.

[JusticePete]

Originally Posted by carfansince73

I have the Hotchkis Track Pack which includes their lowering springs. When I had my car in for an alignment at the Chevy dealer, he said he couldn't get the camber right and was going to have to drill out the mount. Ended up that he could not get my wheels off since the key I have for the lugs was misplaced so he did not do any drilling. In the end, he said that he got it right (I'm doubtful since I didn't get a printout showing the final specs in green).

I guess my question is should I expect camber issues with these drop springs on the stock struts that can't be adjusted? I have noticed my inner front tires wearing more than the outside.

Thanks for any help.

1. With lowering coils, your Camaro can be aligned with the range specified by the factory.

2. With a tech that says I have to grind, but I couldn't and your alignment just magically fell into place and we don't have a print out so we don't know what the specs are your only option is to get a real alignment.

3. Print out the alignment information a couple of posts above, go back to the same shop, review it with them and ask them to do this one on their dime or find a new dealer and start from scratch.

4. The only limitation on alignment with a lowered Camaro compared to a factory height Camaro is rear camber. The lower you go the higher the negative rear camber will become. This is a priority with wider than stock rear wheels or to optimize handling or drag launches, Th fix is simple. Replaces the factory camber eccentrics with Justice Pete Signature Series Rear Camber bolts that have an additional 1 degree of adjustment. Part Number HW-CAM8-R-CAM-ADJ

[Synner]

Originally Posted by ICTsccaCamaro

Is everyone leaving the adjuster bolt/screw in the knucle after the alignment or are you pulling them back out after you are done? I just aligned ours and it was a pain keeping the camber setting in while i was tightening the bolts this would have helped alot, but just wondering if one set of bolts/screws would work or if i need a set per car?

Use lots of loctite when you leave them in. Some goober tech left the bolts in loose and I didn't notice right away. I could only imagine the suck factor of my day if it flew out and jammed in the rotor/caliper or clipped a brake line as I stomped on the brakes at the end of a straight. One was 3 turns from out when I noticed the rattle.

[carfansince73]

Originally Posted by JusticePete

1. With lowering coils, your Camaro can be aligned with the range specified by the factory.

2. With a tech that says I have to grind, but I couldn't and your alignment just magically fell into place and we don't have a print out so we don't know what the specs are your only option is to get a real alignment.

3. Print out the alignment information a couple of posts above, go back to the same shop, review it with them and ask them to do this one on their dime or find a new dealer and start from scratch.

4. The only limitation on alignment with a lowered Camaro compared to a factory height Camaro is rear camber. The lower you go the higher the negative rear camber will become. This is a priority with wider than stock rear wheels or to optimize handling or drag launches, Th fix is simple. Replaces the factory camber eccentrics with Justice Pete Signature Series Rear Camber bolts that have an additional 1 degree of adjustment. Part Number HW-CAM8-R-CAM-ADJ

Thanks! I just love this website.

[JusticePete]

Originally Posted by Synner

Use lots of loctite when you leave them in. Some goober tech left the bolts in loose and I didn't notice right away. I could only imagine the suck factor of my day if it flew out and jammed in the rotor/caliper or clipped a brake line as I stomped on the brakes at the end of a straight. One was 3 turns from out when I noticed the rattle.

Hey that is my technical term!

Goober up the threads for the camber screw with Loctite.

We like to leave them in goobered up with Loctite so they are there for your next alignment.

[Synner]

Well I get threatened with banishment when I use my uncensored terms for the intelligence challenged. So i went with goober.

[carfansince73]

Originally Posted by JusticePete

3. Print out the alignment information a couple of posts above, go back to the same shop, review it with them and ask them to do this one on their dime or find a new dealer and start from scratch.

Are these the specs they should be shooting for with 275's up front and 315's in the back? This was a reply "from the sticky alignment thread" to an owner with the same Hotchkis shocks.

Originally Posted by Info@PeddersUSA.com

I totally understand!

This is what I would do:

Front.
Camber to -1.0 each
toe to .1 degrees toe out each wheel

Rear
Camber, get the least amount of negative Camber as possible
Toe, toe in .05 degrees each wheel

Hope this helps and drive safe.

mike
dms