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Camaro V6 LFX Engine, Exhaust, and Bolt-Ons For all LFX related parts

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Old 08-19-2013, 02:43 PM   #26
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Originally Posted by maxcamaro View Post
Is it worth modding my V6 camaro even if I don't put a tune on it?
I was going to install a CAI, performance tires, and an exhaust system but I don't know which one i want to get yet. I'm going to tune it eventually but after my warranty is over. Is it worth modding now or should I just wait until I'm ready to tune it?
IMO, it's absolutely worth modding your car. Of the three mods you listed, only the CAI will affect engine performance. Other than horsepower, some of the mods actually affect throttle response, too.

The exhaust system MAY, depending on what you're talking about. If you go as far as high-flow cats (HFCs), you may gain a slight performance increase, but otherwise cat-back and axle-back exhaust on these cars will only reduce weight and add sound. You can't do headers on your car, in case you didn't know.

You could do CAI and a ported TB, and gain some power and throttle response without needing a tune. The CAI is worth it for the sound alone, IMO. I love my Roto-Fab.

RacnJsn95 is working on some other engine mods, too, that may be promising.

Check out the V6 sections, and you'll see plenty of people who've modded their V6s, and are enjoying the results. You're never going to get V8 power or sound, but there are gains to be had, and it's fun to do.
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Old 08-19-2013, 02:43 PM   #27
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Originally Posted by PoorMansCamaro View Post
well, speaking from experience, I had a 2010 LS, did every single bolt-on mod available for it and some suspension. and I would say every single bolt-on was a waste of money. lol most was all good for sound. I couldn't go any faster than 15.2 1/4 mile at the local track in las vegas, with a manual. granted the DA sucked all the time, and they didn't prep the track. it was just a slow track for everyone. a bunch of stock SS's couldn't break into the 13's. i cut down to 13.8 1/4mile with nitrous.

so, if I had to do it all over again, I would save my money from the small mods, and buy nitrous...or SC/TC.
Agree. Doing bolt-ons was fun, but to be totally honest, the before and after wasn't a drastic difference. Yeah, the car sounded better, and maybe felt a little peppier, but if you want mods you can truly feel, you have to go big, e.g. blower, cam, internal engine mods, nitrous.

Also, gears make a hell of a difference and they were one of my favorite mods. I think this is kind of cost prohibitive on the V6 though, since a lot of parts need replaced. I guess it would also defeat the purpose of buying the LS to begin with, since it was designed for better MPGs.
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Old 08-19-2013, 02:46 PM   #28
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Originally Posted by PoorMansCamaro View Post
well, speaking from experience, I had a 2010 LS, did every single bolt-on mod available for it and some suspension. and I would say every single bolt-on was a waste of money. lol most was all good for sound. I couldn't go any faster than 15.2 1/4 mile at the local track in las vegas, with a manual. granted the DA sucked all the time, and they didn't prep the track. it was just a slow track for everyone. a bunch of stock SS's couldn't break into the 13's. i cut down to 13.8 1/4mile with nitrous.

so, if I had to do it all over again, I would save my money from the small mods, and buy nitrous...or SC/TC.
I think the answer depends on what you're looking for and what your goals are. For someone like you who is looking to improve their drag times, increasing RWHP by 10% with bolt-ons and a tune won't be enough.

For others, it will.
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Old 08-19-2013, 02:51 PM   #29
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Not sure if the V6 auto is similar to the V8 auto, but the V8 really benefits from a tune. Sure, it helps get the most out of the mods, but another big part of it is the tranny tune. The tranny tune really makes a difference in how the car feels and drives.
Yes, from what I've heard from V6 A6 owners who've tuned, the tranny tune makes a dramatic difference.
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Originally Posted by E.T. View Post
Agree. Doing bolt-ons was fun, but to be totally honest, the before and after wasn't a drastic difference. Yeah, the car sounded better, and maybe felt a little peppier, but if you want mods you can truly feel, you have to go big, e.g. blower, cam, internal engine mods, nitrous.

Also, gears make a hell of a difference and they were one of my favorite mods. I think this is kind of cost prohibitive on the V6 though, since a lot of parts need replaced. I guess it would also defeat the purpose of buying the LS to begin with, since it was designed for better MPGs.
Just to be clear, the 2LS is the model that was changed to get the higher EPA MPG number. The 1LS was not.

The V6 autos will have more trouble with swapping gears, but the manual V6's have the same LSD diff (albeit with different gears) as the SS.
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Old 08-19-2013, 02:52 PM   #30
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Great write up
Thanks.
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Old 08-19-2013, 02:53 PM   #31
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Go ahead and mod with no tune.

Just don't sing with no tune.
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Old 08-19-2013, 02:55 PM   #32
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I think the answer depends on what you're looking for and what your goals are. For someone like you who is looking to improve their drag times, increasing RWHP by 10% with bolt-ons and a tune won't be enough.

For others, it will.
this is very true. I am a speed junkie. lol
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Old 08-19-2013, 05:16 PM   #33
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Thanks for the replies everyone. I will definitely install a CAI and performance tires asap. (I'll wait on the exhaust) One more question, can you guys recommend any good CAI brands? I know people talk shit about BBK intakes but I like that blue haha Anything under 400 is ok.
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Old 08-19-2013, 05:20 PM   #34
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Thanks for the replies everyone. I will definitely install a CAI and performance tires asap. (I'll wait on the exhaust) One more question, can you guys recommend any good CAI brands? I know people talk shit about BBK intakes but I like that blue haha Anything under 400 is ok.
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Old 08-19-2013, 05:23 PM   #35
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well, speaking from experience, I had a 2010 LS, did every single bolt-on mod available for it and some suspension. and I would say every single bolt-on was a waste of money. lol most was all good for sound. I couldn't go any faster than 15.2 1/4 mile at the local track in las vegas, with a manual. granted the DA sucked all the time, and they didn't prep the track. it was just a slow track for everyone. a bunch of stock SS's couldn't break into the 13's. i cut down to 13.8 1/4mile with nitrous.

so, if I had to do it all over again, I would save my money from the small mods, and buy nitrous...or SC/TC.
+1
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Old 08-19-2013, 06:42 PM   #36
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Thanks for the replies everyone. I will definitely install a CAI and performance tires asap. (I'll wait on the exhaust) One more question, can you guys recommend any good CAI brands? I know people talk shit about BBK intakes but I like that blue haha Anything under 400 is ok.
You will find lots of love for the CAI brand. I went with Roto - Fab and am very satisfied. Most of the top brands (Roto - Fab, CAI, Injen) are similar in performance. You have to decide how much you want to spend and which model's asthetics appeal to you.
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Old 08-23-2013, 11:58 AM   #37
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I'll get this one. Once again... "RS" is not a model of Camaro. It is a TRIM PACKAGE and nothing more. It consists of body colored roof ditches, custom wheels, tinted tail lights, RS badges, etc. Strictly an appearance package - no performance enhancements.
What do you mean? My RS has 20 more Hp because of the RS doesn't yours?

Sorry trying to lighten the mood.
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Old 08-23-2013, 05:42 PM   #38
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I basically did exactly what you want to do .
I have a 2012 1LS.

Exhaust and CIA.

Sounds amazing, reduced a lot of weight.
I eat a LOT of RS package 2LS.

It's the manual trans, weight off the exhaust and cia I'm convinced.

(dyno readings I don't think take in to account the weight reduction do they? someone correct me please if I am wrong....?) those darn trash cans were HEAVY!

You just can't drag against an experienced manual transmission driver in an automatic.
That nut you're racing in the manual will take every gear to redline regardless of what the computer wants to do.

Most of all playing with your toy is fun and anything that puts a smile on my face is a gain!
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Old 08-23-2013, 07:24 PM   #39
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I basically did exactly what you want to do .
I have a 2012 1LS.

Exhaust and CIA.

Sounds amazing, reduced a lot of weight.
I eat a LOT of RS package 2LS.

It's the manual trans, weight off the exhaust and cia I'm convinced.

(dyno readings I don't think take in to account the weight reduction do they? someone correct me please if I am wrong....?) those darn trash cans were HEAVY!

You just can't drag against an experienced manual transmission driver in an automatic.
That nut you're racing in the manual will take every gear to redline regardless of what the computer wants to do.

Most of all playing with your toy is fun and anything that puts a smile on my face is a gain!
  1. You can't get either LS with the RS package. And it doesn't matter anyway, since the RS package is an appearance package, not a performance package.
  2. The dyno only reads power/torque. Weight reduction does not affect either. Weight reduction will affect performance numbers, though, as there's less weight for that power/torque to move.
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Old 08-23-2013, 08:16 PM   #40
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Most CAI will give similar numbers, I went with Injen as it was an intake that was grabbing air away from the engine. Love the sound it gave the motor. Ported throttle body helps with the response and will eliminate that dead spot when you floor it, worth the money in my opinion. I have an auto so when I got my Trifecta tune it was a nice surprise how well it added to the tranny. Over all the tune itself kinda made all the other mods play nice together. As Poor man said it doesn't give you a SS killer but it does make it better. Your butt dyno will feel it.
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Old 08-23-2013, 10:00 PM   #41
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2full garage. who is XYZ Tuning? a CAI for $118 is cheap. does it do what the CAI Inc. and K@N cold air intakes do? why it so much cheaper. thanks
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Old 08-24-2013, 11:40 AM   #42
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a CAI for $118 is cheap. does it do what the CAI Inc. and K@N cold air intakes do?
I will just about guarantee you that it does not.
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Old 08-24-2013, 12:47 PM   #43
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I will just about guarantee you that it does not.
+1

U usually get wat u pay for. $118? Uhh seems a bit suspect
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Old 08-24-2013, 01:24 PM   #44
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With a cai and everything else stock you won't need a tune. At stock power levels a cai benefit is keeping air intake temps down. A stock ecu starts to pull timing around 80*. So if you can keep intake temps down you will be making more power. On boosted vehicles we have seen 60hp gains when adding a cai. Due to the ability to flow more cfm.

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Old 08-24-2013, 02:23 PM   #45
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Originally Posted by SirZeusor View Post
I basically did exactly what you want to do .
I have a 2012 1LS.

Exhaust and CIA.

Sounds amazing, reduced a lot of weight.
I eat a LOT of RS package 2LS.

It's the manual trans, weight off the exhaust and cia I'm convinced.

(dyno readings I don't think take in to account the weight reduction do they? someone correct me please if I am wrong....?) those darn trash cans were HEAVY!

You just can't drag against an experienced manual transmission driver in an automatic.
That nut you're racing in the manual will take every gear to redline regardless of what the computer wants to do.

Most of all playing with your toy is fun and anything that puts a smile on my face is a gain!
I'm really not trying to sound like an ass here so please bare with me. But a lot of what you said is misinformation.

You're right by saying that dynos don't take into consideration weight reduction. And taking off the exhaust cans is a big gain in weight reduction.

Now, assuming we're talking about racing at the drag strip, a manual driver will almost always lose to an auto car at the track. It's truly an artform trying to launch a manual car at a track. An auto all he has to do is push the gas pedal down and hold on. Don't believe me? Go look at the v6 fast list, the v8 fast list, and the drag strip section. There's a reason manual v8s can't run big numbers. They just can't launch them right. Same thing applies for the v6. Everytime I'm at the track, I like to race anything that'll line up next to me even if I know I'll get my doors blown off (ex. raced an Audi R8). But when I know the other guy is in a manual, I always have a chance to win. There's just so much more you can do wrong in a manual vs an auto. I've beat 3 SS manual cars just because they can't launch and were stuck spinning at the line.

Also, the ECU will shift at redline in an auto everytime you go WOT. So saying that because you can shit at redline in your manual gives you an advantage is wrong. The auto does the exact same thing.

Now, assuming you are talking about racing on a "private road", then that's a whole different ballgame. But sadly, you're still flawed in your thinking. The manual certainly presents an advantage racing on a "private road" because you get to choose the gear to put the car in and start right in the power band. But the reason you beat 2LS cars isn't because you have a manual. It's because they don't have the ability to use paddle shifts since they don't have a sport mode. Another reason you beat the 2LS is because they come with the 2.92 "economy" gears. While all other models come with the standard 3.23 gears. I can confidently say that if you line up against an auto 1LT you'll get a much closer race because he has the 3.23 gears and Sport Mode as well.
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Old 08-24-2013, 03:39 PM   #46
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Stock for stock manual cars are faster with even drivers.


Op do a catch can for longterm reliability,, and also a Cai for Increased mpg and better cooling. Add a catback IF you want better sound if not save for FI
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Old 08-24-2013, 03:52 PM   #47
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Another reason you beat the 2LS is because they come with the 2.92 "economy" gears. While all other models come with the standard 3.23 gears. I can confidently say that if you line up against an auto 1LT you'll get a much closer race because he has the 3.23 gears and Sport Mode as well.
The standard V6 gear ratio (except for the 2LS) is 3.27:1.

And when I look at the Fast Lists, at least the "bone stock" ones, the manuals basically own them. Bolt-ons and mods seem to even things out for the autos, though. Or am I not looking at what you intended?
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Old 08-24-2013, 07:09 PM   #48
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I'm really not trying to sound like an ass here so please bare with me. But a lot of what you said is misinformation.

You're right by saying that dynos don't take into consideration weight reduction. And taking off the exhaust cans is a big gain in weight reduction.

Now, assuming we're talking about racing at the drag strip, a manual driver will almost always lose to an auto car at the track. It's truly an artform trying to launch a manual car at a track. An auto all he has to do is push the gas pedal down and hold on. Don't believe me? Go look at the v6 fast list, the v8 fast list, and the drag strip section. There's a reason manual v8s can't run big numbers. They just can't launch them right. Same thing applies for the v6. Everytime I'm at the track, I like to race anything that'll line up next to me even if I know I'll get my doors blown off (ex. raced an Audi R8). But when I know the other guy is in a manual, I always have a chance to win. There's just so much more you can do wrong in a manual vs an auto. I've beat 3 SS manual cars just because they can't launch and were stuck spinning at the line.

Also, the ECU will shift at redline in an auto everytime you go WOT. So saying that because you can shit at redline in your manual gives you an advantage is wrong. The auto does the exact same thing.

Now, assuming you are talking about racing on a "private road", then that's a whole different ballgame. But sadly, you're still flawed in your thinking. The manual certainly presents an advantage racing on a "private road" because you get to choose the gear to put the car in and start right in the power band. But the reason you beat 2LS cars isn't because you have a manual. It's because they don't have the ability to use paddle shifts since they don't have a sport mode. Another reason you beat the 2LS is because they come with the 2.92 "economy" gears. While all other models come with the standard 3.23 gears. I can confidently say that if you line up against an auto 1LT you'll get a much closer race because he has the 3.23 gears and Sport Mode as well.
Right on. Launches are consistent in the auto, whereas in the manual you need to learn where to launch best, and practice at being consistent with it.

And yes, the auto will run all the way up to redline and then shift perfectly under WOT, while the manual driver has to make a good shift and not grind or miss a gear.

I got nothing against manuals, and if driven perfectly usually are faster, but it is how it is.
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Old 08-25-2013, 05:01 PM   #49
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I hot rodded stuff in the '80s and '90s when you could get some improvement over what the factory gave you.

Flash forward...

I don't honestly believe significant gains can be made on the little V6s without tune or forcing with what all the research GM put into these cars. I know the aftermarket intakes and exhaust are expensinve and shiny but other than saving some weight on mufflers I'd not bother.

Will you gain a couple HP? Yeah maybe a couple but for that kind of money?

I'd rather spend the money taking the car on vacation or some good bottles of scotch.
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Old 09-04-2013, 01:19 PM   #50
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2full garage. who is XYZ Tuning? a CAI for $118 is cheap. does it do what the CAI Inc. and K@N cold air intakes do? why it so much cheaper. thanks
XYZ tuning........Sorry I have been on Vacation....Riviera maya

The price is 119.99 comes with everything you need (except clear instructions)..common sense makes it straight forward though http://www.ebay.com/itm/3-5-RED-12-1...item58a31d0dac

Hard to see in the picture, but it comes with enough gasket material to go around the top and the bottom. You just need to cut it into the lengths you need.

Not sure of the performance difference between this and any other 3.5" intake. The only improvements I see that could be done to this would be a more gradual bend into the TB.
the filter is huge and could not be bigger. The bend is tight but I think it is with any kit on this LFX. Maybe that is why the stock has all the resonator chambers. To minimize dead air zones and turbulence from that sharp turn ..(yes I am kidding before y'all go crazy analyzing)
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2 FULL GARAGE

2003 silver streak mica MR2 Spyder, 6-SMT, AEM, TM Magnaflow duals, Davids style bars, CHE header, body kit that required a lot of hand work
NOW GARAGED
1993 flash red t-top MR2..way too many mods
NOW GARAGED
2013..Elite catch can, Blastin' Bob's fat pipes, CAI, GM front, Razzi sides, Stillen rear, T-REX grill, stripes, paint, LEDs,
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