Adam's Products

[2010 2-Tone]

I asked one of these questions a bit ago but thought I would have a new thread to get the correct answers on these several questions. First of all my paint is in really good shape, car sleeps in a garage and is NOT a DD.
1) What would be a step by step to get the best showroom shine? I know wash, dry, clay. The steps afterwards and the name of each product. I will be using a pc 7424. I have watched some of Junkman's videos but are still unsure on these steps. Thanks guys

[Adam's Polishes]

Sorry I didn't see this until just now... running around like a chicken with his head cut off today!!

There is going to have to be some evaluation and testing on your part to determine what the "Best" process for you would be, but I can definitely guide you along the way.

We have 3 pad types, and 3 corresponding polishes that work with them. As I'm sure you've seen we color code everything to eliminate the guesswork on your end.

Green Pad + Severe Swirl Remover - this is our most aggressive (and new) combo... really recommended for correction of heavier swirls and damage. It will remove in the range of 2000 grit sanding marks as a reference.

Orange pad + Swirl & Haze Remover - this is our medium cut stuff... probably best suited for correcting MOST common paint conditions. Medium to light swirling and things introduced thru the washing process or your average "dealer installed swirl marks"

White Pad + Fine Machine Polish - this is the product combo you will always be what you finish with. Its a very very very fine diminishing abrasive and a fine pad that will restore the gloss and take out the minor imperfections left behind by the other steps.

The way the system works you always step down in progression...

So if you start at green you follow with orange then white. If you start with orange you follow with white. If you start with white then you stop there and proceed to your wax/sealant/glaze.

As for your choice of last step products the 'no compromises' best, wettest look, my personal preference you'll go w/ Brilliant Glaze followed Americana Paste Wax.

If you want easy to apply on a budget Buttery wax would be the way to go.

For the most durable option in our line you want the Machine Superwax, which you can then top with the Glaze for added gloss/shine.

[Junkman2008]

I'll add this also. Polishing is what is going to make your paint shine. If you want your paint to shine, polish it first. Wax is going to protect the shine that you get from polishing.

The polish you choose to use is determined by the damage in your paint. Dylan has explained what damage each polish addresses so all you have to do is look at your paint and choose the proper polish. If the damage that you are addressing does not disappear after you address it, either repeat the process or move up to a more aggressive polish and pad (that is providing you are using the PC properly and your technique is dead on).

The process does not change if your car is new or 20 years old. What changes is which steps of the process you will complete, or where you will start in the process. If you truly understand what each step of the process is for and what it does, then what you need to do will come very easy.

So the question I have for you is, do you understand every step of the process as what each step does? Do you even know all the steps?

[2010 2-Tone]

Thanks Junkman, I have watched just about all of your videos. I now understand that I just need to learn the entire process and then it is really just deciding where to start because it is a step by step process. I will be buying the pc7424 soon and some product. Thanks alot to you and Dylan for taking your time explaining this to me. I will get better and better the more I do it and I will be able to help others as well with the Adam's products.

[Junkman2008]

Originally Posted by 2010 2-Tone

... I will get better and better the more I do it and I will be able to help others as well with the Adam's products.

Exactly. And once you understand the process (which is so simple), you'll be like, "This isn't difficult or hard at all!"

Everyone starts at the beginning. Enjoy the trip.

[Iwantone2]

Originally Posted by Junkman2008

Exactly. And once you understand the process (which is so simple), you'll be like, "This isn't difficult or hard at all!"

Everyone starts at the beginning. Enjoy the trip.

I can attest to Junkman's quote. It really wasn't that difficult to follow each process. It is time consuming for sure, but there is a difference between getting it done and getting it done right.

Dylan's breakdown of the process is very good and gives great explanation of each product.

These are words to live by...

[2010 2-Tone]

Originally Posted by Iwantone2

I can attest to Junkman's quote. It really wasn't that difficult to follow each process. It is time consuming for sure, but there is a difference between getting it done and getting it done right.

Dylan's breakdown of the process is very good and gives great explanation of each product.

These are words to live by...

Thanks for the words of encourgement. I went down a couple months ago to Cruise The Coast and really looked and the paint and the look of some of those cars and I knew I needed to get the products and knowledge if my paint is going to be better than the guy next to me. I will be buying the pc 7424 and a bunch of Adam's product.

[Iwantone2]

Originally Posted by 2010 2-Tone

Thanks for the words of encourgement. I went down a couple months ago to Cruise The Coast and really looked and the paint and the look of some of those cars and I knew I needed to get the products and knowledge if my paint is going to be better than the guy next to me. I will be buying the pc 7424 and a bunch of Adam's product.

No problem! And it really is worth the investment in the PC and Adam's products! I saw first-hand what the kit does to my car and I have no regrets purchasing it! You must realize that I've never used a PC before, so when I polished my car, it was only my second time using it. It really wasn't that difficult! Good luck!!

[Stex]

Heads Up! Adams is running a BlackFriday2010 15% off sale thru 12 PM the
30th. Put blackfriday2010 in the promotion code or just call Ashley...

I use almost all their products. After the paint stuff, try the green wheel cleaner (safe on all wheels) and VRT on the tires...In and out spray is good to...the name does make you think...

http://www.adamspolishes.com/p-436-a...l-cleaner.aspx

http://www.adamspolishes.com/c-10-tires-trim.aspx

[Adam's Polishes]

thanks for the bump Stex... sale ends tomorrow at midnight!

[Gramps]

Your have basically a new car...so don't do anything to the paint that you don't have to...remember polishing with any type of abrasives...REMOVES paint (by leveling it)...don't let anybody kid you on that. How much you remove and to what extent you HAVE to remove is the question...in order to get that "like new" finish. Hopefully you only need a finishing polish with zero cut.

I also have a new Camaro...and the ONLY thing that it needs is to be washed at this point. The paint is near perfect and I don't need to run some machine over the paint...just because I can. I did clay the car when it was new to get the delivery crud off of it...and polished it with a jeweling polish that has zero cut. With a little luck, all I will only have to do is wash the car weekly...wax every 4 months...and maybe do a polish 2x a year (max) with a zero cut polish and pads with zero cut.

Older cars with tons of scratches and swirls....another story. You should not need a whole lot to do.

[Dr Jkel]

Originally Posted by Gramps

Your have basically a new car...so don't do anything to the paint that you don't have to...remember polishing REMOVES paint (by leveling it)...don't let anybody kid you on that. How much you remove and to what extent you HAVE to remove is the question ...in order to get that "like new" finish. I also have a new Camaro...and the ONLY thing that it needs is to be washed at this point. The paint is near perfect and I don't need to run some machine over the paint...just because I can. I did clay the car when it was new to get the delivery crud off of it...and polished it with a finishing polish that has zero cut-ability. With a little luck, all I will only have to wash the car weekly...wax every 4 months...and maybe do a polish 2x a year (max) with a zero cut polish and pads with zero cut.

Older cars with tons of scratches and swirls....another story.

Unfortunately for some of us, like me , I never really knew exactly how to properly care for paint and I got swirl city. I thought I was taking care of it but was actually grinding dust into the paint.

Although I have learned now what not to do, I still had to fix what I messed up to begin with.

[Stex]

Also some new cars/camaros/trucks come from the dealer needing correction.
I was looking at two red Camaros at the dealer yesterday. It was high noon and sun was out. Get the angle right and the paint looked like swirl city on both cars. So age should not be the only factor for needing/not needing correction.

[Adam's Polishes]

If you've seen the "wash" that happens to most new cars coming off the trailer or after they've sat on the lot a few days you'd understand why almost all new cars need paint correction - a lot of times not just minor correction either.