Tool for wicker bill rivnut and installed - Page 5 - Camaro5 Chevy Camaro Forum / Camaro ZL1, SS and V6 Forums

Skylane765 · 11-13-2015, 07:43 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Crushinator

I made my 1/8" pilot holes tonight, and have a question for those who have installed this. Once you have the rivnut installed in the spoiler, is there any side-to-side adjustment when you bolt the wickerbill on? Maybe up to a 1/16"? I measured it 10 times, checked the distance from the top of the spoiler to the holes with a micrometer 10 times as well and they were all dead on. Sure enough, when I drilled the holes, they're about 1/16" to the right from dead center. Will I even notice 1/16"?

I have to wait until I get my NRG hardware to drill the larger hole, and I'm sure I can just start the larger hole 1/16 to the left, and it will cover the holes there now, but the problem is I need to start the hole right on the edge of the 1/8" hole that's there...and that can be tough to get exactly right with walking the drill bit.

The riv nuts do not have to be right on, our wicker gives 1/4 play up or down. AS LONG AS THE RIV NUT HEAD DOES NOT GO THOUGH THE HOLE YOU CAN PULL THE RIV NUT TIGHT AND IT WILL WORK.

Skylane765 · 11-13-2015, 07:46 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Crushinator

Looking around on the NRG website, their hardware comes in all different colors. These titanium ones look pretty good..

http://getnrg.com/products/under-hoo...r-kit/fw-110ti

We sell our wicker bill with or with out hardware if you want to use a different fastener like above.

chimazo · 11-14-2015, 09:03 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Zslash28

First youll open the handles of the tool. Next, you need to adjust the mandrel pull length with the adjusters in the middle of the tool. Hopefully you have more of the rivnuts. Next, install a sacrificial rivnut and operate the tool. Your testing it out to make sure the rivnut has the correct grip expansion. If it checks out, then proceed with installing the rivnuts. If its not, then adjust the mandrel pull length and retest another rivnut.
You want the tool to operate in its full motion and not pull the rivnut through the spoiler. To clarify, the mandrel should be adjusted so that when it stops moving it has completely seated the rivnut to its installed grip expansion.

Thanks!

What I wasn't sure about was what you mentioned about pulling the rivnut through the spoiler. Unfortunately, all I have are the rivnuts that come with the wickerbill and they don't include any extras.

I'll just have to squeeze slowly and hope I don't eff it up.

Crushinator · 11-14-2015, 05:40 PM

Finally got mine on today. It was a little hairy drilling the large holes, but it came out perfect. Unfortunately, the NRG hardware I bought didn't work. The bolts weren't long enough to reach the threads in the rivnut. Thankfully, the GM bolts that came with it fit the NRG rivnuts.

I do have a question. Can someone post a pic of where you put the 4 thick foam washers to support the extra weight? I looked around but want to put them in the best place possible.

Crushinator · 11-14-2015, 05:42 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by chimazo

Thanks!

What I wasn't sure about was what you mentioned about pulling the rivnut through the spoiler. Unfortunately, all I have are the rivnuts that come with the wickerbill and they don't include any extras.

I'll just have to squeeze slowly and hope I don't eff it up.

I have some extra rivnuts if you goof up. Let me know if you need any.

Stephen12ZL1 · 11-14-2015, 05:54 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Crushinator

Finally got mine on today. It was a little hairy drilling the large holes, but it came out perfect. Unfortunately, the NRG hardware I bought didn't work. The bolts weren't long enough to reach the threads in the rivnut. Thankfully, the GM bolts that came with it fit the NRG rivnuts.

I do have a question. Can someone post a pic of where you put the 4 thick foam washers to support the extra weight? I looked around but want to put them in the best place possible.

the thicker washers are to absorb the extra weight of the wickerbill on the trunk lid. They fit over the plastic dowels that protrude on the trunk lid on the underneath. Two on each side (if I remember correctly) will aborb the extra closing force of the added weight of the wickerbill. It seemed pretty clear in the GM directions to me.

JTRATX · 11-17-2015, 06:30 PM

Thank You to the OP for posting that home made tool, much appreciated!! Especially the idea of using the bar strap as the washer, that made all the difference. I tried to install without the bar strap and the riv nut just spun.

To others, make sure you follow the OP's exactly, it will work flawlessly.

s.hammer · 12-10-2015, 04:30 PM

Is it ok not to tighten the riv nut till is stops, hate to over tighten and break/crack the spoiler. They are tight, you can see the area around the riv nut dimpling. Is that tight enough?

Crushinator · 12-10-2015, 04:59 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by s.hammer

Is it ok not to tighten the riv nut till is stops, hate to over tighten and break/crack the spoiler. They are tight, you can see the area around the riv nut dimpling. Is that tight enough?

Mine didn't come to a complete stop either. I made them tight and stopped.

chimazo · 12-10-2015, 05:36 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by s.hammer

Is it ok not to tighten the riv nut till is stops, hate to over tighten and break/crack the spoiler. They are tight, you can see the area around the riv nut dimpling. Is that tight enough?

I used a different tool than you, but yes, the spoiler distorts just the slightest bit, which was as tight as I made the rivnuts. They stayed in place and were very secure, even though I tightened down my wickerbill pretty good.

s.hammer · 12-10-2015, 08:17 PM

Cool, thanks for the help.

phillyflyer · 05-15-2016, 03:23 PM

So, reviving this thread as this process broke bad for me today....not sure what I did (or am doing) wrong.

First "fun" bit was trying to find a 35/64 drill bit which I eventually ordered from Amazon because I couldn't find one anywhere

Fun bit number 2 was the set up...easy-peasey lining up the template and drilling the pilot holes, but the 35/64 was a beast and the holes are now too big for the OEM rivnut.

After reading through this thread, others said that the fit wasn't snug but the rivnut did install so I figured I'd give it a go and try my DIY rivnut tool....not sure where I am messing up here but as soon as the nut gets to the washer and the strap, it will not move..Granted, I'm no superman but I'm not a weakling either and the nut will turn to compress the rivnut. Every video I saw showed the DIY tools turning the nut with "relative" ease and then the rivnut will compress...with my tool the nut will not budge once it hits the the washer and strap

Here's a pic of the tool....what boat did I miss because it's and 8mm nut and bolt, it threads right into the rivnut....

So I screwed this up for good? Does anyone know if there is a place to get larger OD rivnuts that would work with the OEM bolts or new hardware that fit my now "larger than" 35/64 holes

Thanks!

JTRATX · 05-15-2016, 05:00 PM

If you used the correct bit you will be fine.

From memory your tool set up looks correct, but turning the wrench takes some muscle, that I do remember, once it gets past the initial crush it gets easier, but to get started takes muscle. I also lubed up the nut/washer etc w/anti seize to keep from galling.

I would also thread the bolt deeper into the riv nut so the threads come out the back side of the rive nut. Maybe it does, but can't tell from the pic.

Shawno72 · 05-15-2016, 05:02 PM

Sub'd

11-14-2015, 05:40 PM	#60
Crushinator Drives: '15 Z/28 #783 Join Date: Aug 2015 Location: PA Posts: 456 View My Garage	Finally got mine on today. It was a little hairy drilling the large holes, but it came out perfect. Unfortunately, the NRG hardware I bought didn't work. The bolts weren't long enough to reach the threads in the rivnut. Thankfully, the GM bolts that came with it fit the NRG rivnuts. I do have a question. Can someone post a pic of where you put the 4 thick foam washers to support the extra weight? I looked around but want to put them in the best place possible. Attached Images __________________ 2015 Z/28 A/C and audio

05-15-2016, 03:23 PM	#68
phillyflyer Drives: 2015 Z28 Join Date: Nov 2015 Location: Pittsburgh, PA Posts: 72	UGH! So, reviving this thread as this process broke bad for me today....not sure what I did (or am doing) wrong. First "fun" bit was trying to find a 35/64 drill bit which I eventually ordered from Amazon because I couldn't find one anywhere Fun bit number 2 was the set up...easy-peasey lining up the template and drilling the pilot holes, but the 35/64 was a beast and the holes are now too big for the OEM rivnut. After reading through this thread, others said that the fit wasn't snug but the rivnut did install so I figured I'd give it a go and try my DIY rivnut tool....not sure where I am messing up here but as soon as the nut gets to the washer and the strap, it will not move..Granted, I'm no superman but I'm not a weakling either and the nut will turn to compress the rivnut. Every video I saw showed the DIY tools turning the nut with "relative" ease and then the rivnut will compress...with my tool the nut will not budge once it hits the the washer and strap Here's a pic of the tool....what boat did I miss because it's and 8mm nut and bolt, it threads right into the rivnut.... So I screwed this up for good? Does anyone know if there is a place to get larger OD rivnuts that would work with the OEM bolts or new hardware that fit my now "larger than" 35/64 holes Thanks! __________________ Go For Wand - RIP October 27, 1990

05-15-2016, 05:02 PM	#70
Shawno72 Drives: 2015 Black 2LT RS M6 Join Date: Aug 2015 Location: Cali Posts: 2,033	Sub'd __________________ Overkill tune/E85/80mm•CAI cold air intake w/my custom maf tube•Apex air scoop•JacFab ported intake/Extendolater•Vitesse•EE EX2 catch can•Innovate wideband•ARH HFC's•NPP exhaust•11386 xpipe•Brembos/cross drilled/slotted rotors•SS M/C•Pfadt 1.25 springs•1LE struts/sways/strut tower brace•BMR diff bush, trail arms/bush, adj toe links•My custom Tunnel brace•Hurst short throw shifter•JDP stage 1 clutch res•1LE steering wheel, shift boot•ZL1 rear diffuser/splash guards•GM splitter•Z/28 grille/flowtie/spoiler/wheels•GM performance pedals•"Chevrolet" door sills•10" Kicker sub•BigWorm overlays

11-17-2015, 06:30 PM	#63
JTRATX Drives: 17 SS 1LE, 14 Yukon Denali Join Date: May 2015 Location: Austin, TX Posts: 355	Thank You to the OP for posting that home made tool, much appreciated!! Especially the idea of using the bar strap as the washer, that made all the difference. I tried to install without the bar strap and the riv nut just spun. To others, make sure you follow the OP's exactly, it will work flawlessly.

12-10-2015, 04:30 PM	#64
s.hammer Drives: 2015 Z/28 Join Date: Jun 2011 Location: Rhode Island Posts: 245	Is it ok not to tighten the riv nut till is stops, hate to over tighten and break/crack the spoiler. They are tight, you can see the area around the riv nut dimpling. Is that tight enough?

12-10-2015, 08:17 PM	#67
s.hammer Drives: 2015 Z/28 Join Date: Jun 2011 Location: Rhode Island Posts: 245	Cool, thanks for the help.

05-15-2016, 05:00 PM	#69
JTRATX Drives: 17 SS 1LE, 14 Yukon Denali Join Date: May 2015 Location: Austin, TX Posts: 355	If you used the correct bit you will be fine. From memory your tool set up looks correct, but turning the wrench takes some muscle, that I do remember, once it gets past the initial crush it gets easier, but to get started takes muscle. I also lubed up the nut/washer etc w/anti seize to keep from galling. I would also thread the bolt deeper into the riv nut so the threads come out the back side of the rive nut. Maybe it does, but can't tell from the pic.