Brake question drilled/slotted rotors - Camaro5 Chevy Camaro Forum / Camaro ZL1, SS and V6 Forums

camaroincarolina · 03-06-2010, 05:27 PM

I just had drilled and slotted rotors installed on my SS. They look great, but they don't stop as well as the OEM ones. I am thinking of getting some of the ceramic brake pads installed. Does anybody know if this will help? Thanks!

Wizzer · 03-06-2010, 05:38 PM

Something went wrong then. What brand did you buy and is there possibly air in the system. How odd.

Michael_Js · 03-06-2010, 06:12 PM

Did you bed them in properly?? How new are they? They won't feel like they will stop you at all until they're bedded and broken in. You really sure have put on new pads at the same time...

2ndgenz28 · 03-06-2010, 06:52 PM

Im guessing you won't like ceramic as they need heat to work, id bet the problem is like already said, you didn't bed them in proper.

Why did Isay that about the ceramic?, as if you drive & brake the way they will need you to get heat into them to work their best, yours would be bedded already.

Darth_Emma · 03-06-2010, 07:00 PM

Someone else recently installed slotted rotors and accidentally put the front ones on backward. Are you sure you put the left ones on the correct side? It does matter.

He did use ceramic brake pads and, after installing the rotors correctly, said they work great.

Superman09 · 03-06-2010, 07:01 PM

Try this, tear everything back down and pull off the pads and rotors. Get some emery cloth (fine works best cause your not trying to remove much) and buff your pads just enough to knock off the glazed look. Then buff your rotors too (front and back). Put it all back together and drive it get up to about 30 and stop normally sit at a stop for about 30 seconds (do this 5+ times) then do a few harder stops(3-5) from alittle higher speed(40-50). Always allow about 30 seconds between stops. That should help

side note, did you disconnect the brake line from the caliper at anytime? If so please bleed the brakes before you do any more driving.

P.S. as 2ndgen said you probably wont like ceramics they need to be way to hot to "really work"

camaroincarolina · 03-06-2010, 07:57 PM

Ok, thanks so much for all the advice. They are 2 weeks old. I didn't do them myself. A shop did it and they painted my calipers at the same time. They did not take the calipers off. Everything looks like it's on correctly. Maybe I need to give them some more time to break in? It's been a couple hundred miles so far.

2ndgenz28 · 03-06-2010, 08:07 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by camaroincarolina

Ok, thanks so much for all the advice. They are 2 weeks old. I didn't do them myself. A shop did it and they painted my calipers at the same time. They did not take the calipers off. Everything looks like it's on correctly. Maybe I need to give them some more time to break in? It's been a couple hundred miles so far.

That sounds goofy, how do ya do all that without removing the rotors?

And / or maybe while painting stuff got on the rotors, they didn't clean it off well.

Id ride the brakes some but at low speeds so it just break the surface if maybe its over spray, I do that after a long sit to break the rust off that forms.

Superman09 · 03-07-2010, 12:51 AM

if its been a couple hundred miles you are well beyond break in for brakes. They should have pulled your calipers off to paint them. I would take your car back to the same shop and have them rebleed your brakes and make sure they do it at no charge (their mistake) or do the cleaning I mentioned above but more than likely they didn't bleed it correctly/completely

1 RD JEWL · 03-07-2010, 05:21 PM

OK,

I just did a total break overhaul on mine last week. I have dimpled and slotted disks, hawk ceramic pads and goodrige stainless g-stop lines with motul rbf 600 fluid.

First the brakes should work comparably at first without "Burnishing" also refered to as "Seating", "Seasoning", etc. My ceramics needed no "heating up" to work well. I did burnish them shortly after putting them all in. This process is 5-6 HARD stops from 55-60 MPH to 5-10 MPH. This heats up the rotors and transfers some of the ceramic pad onto the rotors. Once done it is a one time per lifetime of the bad deal. Make sure you don't come to a complete stop though, you do not want to warp the rotors thus down to 5-10 MPH so the rotors are still turning. I did this and they have much better stopping power than the OEM in my opinion. Some of this will be due to the break lines too.

I agree with one reader here that said to have your lines checked again i.e. bleeding them properly. Most issues with poor stopping is not due to teh pad or the rotors but teh bleeding of the lines. If they feel "mushy" it is most likely air in your line. The key to this is to have a steady flow of fluid into a bottle without ever running he resevoir dry. If this happened it could be a bigger problem with air in your master celinoid (sp) or the ABS unit. Bottom line is you don't know if this happened if you didn't do it. I would recommend having the whole system purged by a competant shop. I would not want to wonder if they will stop me.

You should still Burnish your rotors adn pads once you have good stopping power again.

I love my rotors and ceramic pads so far.

2ndgenz28 · 03-07-2010, 05:38 PM

You may think they work well, but if they are real ceramic pads used in racing, they don't beging to even work good till warm.

you must not driving the car like someone who really needs cermaic's and you will never know how well they really do work when heated.

ceramic brakes pads on dailys is a waste of money fad which is fine its your money but seem to be folks just like to say I got ceramics but don't need them.

obe1 · 03-08-2010, 09:34 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 2ndgenz28

You may think they work well, but if they are real ceramic pads used in racing, they don't beging to even work good till warm.

you must not driving the car like someone who really needs cermaic's and you will never know how well they really do work when heated.

ceramic brakes pads on dailys is a waste of money fad which is fine its your money but seem to be folks just like to say I got ceramics but don't need them.

Ceramic pads are a common fix to reduce brake dust; quite common in street applications.

Chris_B · 03-08-2010, 12:02 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by obe1

Ceramic pads are a common fix to reduce brake dust; quite common in street applications.

Correct. I don't know of any ceramic pads being used in racing. They just won't hold up to the heat. Basically, a "ceramic" pad is a semi-metallic pad compound to which at least 7% of "ceramic" material (usually beach sand) has been added. What you get as a result depends heavily on what compound was started with before doctoring, which is why you can't easily compare one brand of ceramics to another.

Normally, you give up 10-15% of stopping power going with a good ceramic pad over a good semi-metallic pad. And, normally, the dust given off is much lighter in color. But using garbage pads may yield all sorts of undesirable effects! I have found that getting a good deal on quality pads is great, but trying to save a bit more with the low-grade stuff is usually a big mistake.

Chris

2ndgenz28 · 03-08-2010, 12:42 PM

brake dust?

That hasn't been a problem for years, unless you use cheap organic pads.

Only down side to good carbon metalics is they chew up rotors fast.

03-06-2010, 05:27 PM	#1
camaroincarolina Drives: 1SS Aqua Blue Metallic Join Date: Apr 2009 Location: SC Posts: 252 View My Garage	Brake question drilled/slotted rotors I just had drilled and slotted rotors installed on my SS. They look great, but they don't stop as well as the OEM ones. I am thinking of getting some of the ceramic brake pads installed. Does anybody know if this will help? Thanks!

03-06-2010, 06:12 PM	#3
Michael_Js SoCal C5 Family Member Drives: 2010 Camaro SS/RS - Black w/IOM; 6M Join Date: Jul 2009 Location: San Diego, CA, USA Posts: 5,299 View My Garage	Did you bed them in properly?? How new are they? They won't feel like they will stop you at all until they're bedded and broken in. You really sure have put on new pads at the same time... __________________ ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ 2010 Black 2SS/RS; 6M; IOM, GFX, sunroof; ADM Race CAI; Zoomers CB; Viper Alarm; Pdaft F&R sways, Adj Endlinks, Rtrailing arms, Camber kit, strut brace, Front Trailing Arm Bushing; SLP Skip-Shift Elim; Tinted lights/windows; Hurst Short-throw; LoJack; Door & Dash ABL Mods; ********; JBA Shorty headers; AACStyle LEDs; Stillen DS rotors, Hawk Ceramic pads; Havoc Blk Chrome wheels: 20x9s; Lingenfelter Blk Al Pedals; RevXtreme Catch Can; Goodridge SS lines; Ported TB; RK Sport hood; Hotchkis chassis brace; KW V3 coilovers;

03-07-2010, 05:21 PM	#10
1 RD JEWL Drives: 2010 Camaro 2SS_RS- RJT Join Date: Aug 2009 Location: Ohio Posts: 723 View My Garage	Brake Issues OK, I just did a total break overhaul on mine last week. I have dimpled and slotted disks, hawk ceramic pads and goodrige stainless g-stop lines with motul rbf 600 fluid. First the brakes should work comparably at first without "Burnishing" also refered to as "Seating", "Seasoning", etc. My ceramics needed no "heating up" to work well. I did burnish them shortly after putting them all in. This process is 5-6 HARD stops from 55-60 MPH to 5-10 MPH. This heats up the rotors and transfers some of the ceramic pad onto the rotors. Once done it is a one time per lifetime of the bad deal. Make sure you don't come to a complete stop though, you do not want to warp the rotors thus down to 5-10 MPH so the rotors are still turning. I did this and they have much better stopping power than the OEM in my opinion. Some of this will be due to the break lines too. I agree with one reader here that said to have your lines checked again i.e. bleeding them properly. Most issues with poor stopping is not due to teh pad or the rotors but teh bleeding of the lines. If they feel "mushy" it is most likely air in your line. The key to this is to have a steady flow of fluid into a bottle without ever running he resevoir dry. If this happened it could be a bigger problem with air in your master celinoid (sp) or the ABS unit. Bottom line is you don't know if this happened if you didn't do it. I would recommend having the whole system purged by a competant shop. I would not want to wonder if they will stop me. You should still Burnish your rotors adn pads once you have good stopping power again. I love my rotors and ceramic pads so far. __________________ Delivered 25 Aug 2009: 2SS/RS LS3

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03-06-2010, 05:38 PM	#2
Wizzer Drives: 2010 Cyber Grey Join Date: Feb 2010 Location: Ga Posts: 703	Something went wrong then. What brand did you buy and is there possibly air in the system. How odd.

03-06-2010, 06:52 PM	#4
2ndgenz28 Thread Killer Drives: All Black Join Date: Aug 2009 Location: NWO Toledo Area Posts: 4,720	Im guessing you won't like ceramic as they need heat to work, id bet the problem is like already said, you didn't bed them in proper. Why did Isay that about the ceramic?, as if you drive & brake the way they will need you to get heat into them to work their best, yours would be bedded already.

03-06-2010, 07:00 PM	#5
Darth_Emma Psssssssssshhhhhhhhhhhhh! Drives: under contruction Join Date: Nov 2009 Location: Marysville, Ohio Posts: 12,996 View My Garage	Someone else recently installed slotted rotors and accidentally put the front ones on backward. Are you sure you put the left ones on the correct side? It does matter. He did use ceramic brake pads and, after installing the rotors correctly, said they work great.

03-06-2010, 07:01 PM	#6
Superman09 Account SNAFU Drives: 13 Tahoe 79 Scout II 15 1LE Join Date: Sep 2008 Location: College Station, TX Posts: 1,356 View My Garage	Try this, tear everything back down and pull off the pads and rotors. Get some emery cloth (fine works best cause your not trying to remove much) and buff your pads just enough to knock off the glazed look. Then buff your rotors too (front and back). Put it all back together and drive it get up to about 30 and stop normally sit at a stop for about 30 seconds (do this 5+ times) then do a few harder stops(3-5) from alittle higher speed(40-50). Always allow about 30 seconds between stops. That should help side note, did you disconnect the brake line from the caliper at anytime? If so please bleed the brakes before you do any more driving. P.S. as 2ndgen said you probably wont like ceramics they need to be way to hot to "really work"

03-06-2010, 07:57 PM	#7
camaroincarolina Drives: 1SS Aqua Blue Metallic Join Date: Apr 2009 Location: SC Posts: 252 View My Garage	Ok, thanks so much for all the advice. They are 2 weeks old. I didn't do them myself. A shop did it and they painted my calipers at the same time. They did not take the calipers off. Everything looks like it's on correctly. Maybe I need to give them some more time to break in? It's been a couple hundred miles so far.

03-07-2010, 12:51 AM	#9
Superman09 Account SNAFU Drives: 13 Tahoe 79 Scout II 15 1LE Join Date: Sep 2008 Location: College Station, TX Posts: 1,356 View My Garage	if its been a couple hundred miles you are well beyond break in for brakes. They should have pulled your calipers off to paint them. I would take your car back to the same shop and have them rebleed your brakes and make sure they do it at no charge (their mistake) or do the cleaning I mentioned above but more than likely they didn't bleed it correctly/completely

03-07-2010, 05:38 PM	#11
2ndgenz28 Thread Killer Drives: All Black Join Date: Aug 2009 Location: NWO Toledo Area Posts: 4,720	You may think they work well, but if they are real ceramic pads used in racing, they don't beging to even work good till warm. you must not driving the car like someone who really needs cermaic's and you will never know how well they really do work when heated. ceramic brakes pads on dailys is a waste of money fad which is fine its your money but seem to be folks just like to say I got ceramics but don't need them.

03-08-2010, 12:42 PM	#14
2ndgenz28 Thread Killer Drives: All Black Join Date: Aug 2009 Location: NWO Toledo Area Posts: 4,720	brake dust? That hasn't been a problem for years, unless you use cheap organic pads. Only down side to good carbon metalics is they chew up rotors fast.