03-05-2013, 04:59 AM | #15 |
Drives: 13' 1LE Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Canada
Posts: 2,641
|
I dont see how the FI could be safer on a NA designed engine. For me, heads and cam all day on a LS3 Rather than FI, but Im a NA guy lol
__________________
13' 1LE
Old setup: TSP 231-236/Tick 660/.105 PR, UDP, SW LT 2'' & HFC, stock NPP & H pipe, VR-DRX CAI, air scoop, Goertz1 manifold, 102mm BBK, 26" Toyo DRs, Forgestars R17x10 & F18x8, rear seat delete, remote Pat G tune Autocal, 7400 limiter, Spec Mini Twin. 91oct. 11.90@122.3, 0-60ft 2.0 / 11.99@123.6, 0-60ft 2.1 DA+819 ...519RWHP SAE Solid roller SBE LS3, FED, LLSR, 91oct, 605rwhp N/A. Tuned by Pat G. Build by me. |
03-05-2013, 05:45 AM | #16 |
Do you even lift, bro?
|
I'm going to try and weight my car this week and I'll post in my build thread to find out myself.
__________________
My 1LE (645WHP/597WTQ) build/journal Thread:
1st ever 1LE COTW http://www.camaro5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=255461 |
03-05-2013, 06:01 AM | #17 |
Drives: One of the baddest handling Gen 5s Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Masachusetts
Posts: 4,177
|
Do you know your cars exact weight before blower install. I am tempted to add a blower as well but don't want to ruin my cornering balance I have now. My car is now way too neutral.
|
03-05-2013, 10:12 AM | #18 | |
Drives: 2013 2SS/RS 1LE Join Date: May 2011
Location: Marion, Ia
Posts: 237
|
Quote:
I think a H/C approach can be just as reliable as F/I if the proper approach is taken. I think a problem many have is they want the sound of a nice cam so they purchase on that factor alone without putting together a complete package. With a proper H/C setup, the heads, cam, intake, exhaust, gear ratio and desired performance envelope are all put together into a comprehensive package to work together. Granted, that is where F/I is easier--put an S/C on with a tune and the other factors aren't as big of a consideration as with a proper H/C package. In other words, an S/C will work well with an otherwise untouched or modified car. To work properly a H/C car will need the proper cam and head modifications to work with the rest of the car. I think that is where we see horror stories--put too aggressive of a cam into an otherwise stock L99 (and stock geared) car and you lose idle quality, bottom end torque (important on a 4000lb car); that car would be no fun to drive and most likely a disappointment. I think the 1LE is an ideal platform to set up as a H/C car. The improved gearing is already there and the car is nicely balanced at its stock weight. I will do a build thread but I'm still in the steep part of the learning curve. I have quite a bit of experience building well-performing classic cars in the manner I described above. I've left my new cars stock in the past and toyed with my older cars. Now I'm reversing that approach a bit as I now have an original 79 T/A I can't mess with without hurting its value, so I'm going to put my efforts into modifying the 1LE. While the concepts are the same, obviously there are differences that I have to become familiar with and learn. For that, I'll turn to the experts here on the forum; you're never too old to learn!
__________________
John
13 VR 2SS/RS 1LE (sold) 01 Z28 M6 HT |
|
03-05-2013, 02:46 PM | #19 | |
Drives: 2016 Corvette Z06 Blade Silver Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Florida
Posts: 822
|
Quote:
Sure adding just a supercharger to a 1LE will make power like a ZL1. But you will upset the balance of the car.... so you fix that. At a minimum by adding new tires...$$$. (305 goodyears to match the front?) But to make the car more neutral with the added power a change of the sway bars is more likely going to be needed....$$$. So now the car is handling right and has the power or more than a ZL1. So you go to the track.... clutch dies.... no problem you added a ZR1 clutch.... $$$. Then you break the axles so you put in gforce or DSS 1400 HP axles.... more $$$. Then the rear breaks so you put a ZL1 rear or 9" .... major $$$. Transmission goes....$$$. All with no warranty. So you get the car running fast..... but the car's aero produces lift making the car scary at the higher speeds it now can run at so you added the complete ZL1 aero package to get downforce.... more $$$. Then are the brakes up to the task?.... CTSV/ZL1 front breaks..... more $$$. Sure a 1LE with a supercharger on paper looks to be a better deal but one major failure and the savings are gone. If you drive the car hard it will be a matter of time. With a ZL1 you get stronger parts and a warranty for 5 years on and off the track. On a ZL1 add a cold air intake for under $400 and add 35 proven HP. So that 80 HP advantage becomes 45 HP and the ZL1 still has a warranty, mag ride, better aero and is fully loaded even as a base model. (To be fair you should compare a 2SS 1LE to a ZL1) Also when you decide to trade it in after a few years.... ZL1 will be worth a ton more than a modded 1LE. The 1LE will be worth what a stock 1LE is worth to a dealer... maybe more if you find private buyer who is willing to pay more. The 1LE is a great option package but value to $$$ the ZL1 is a far better deal if you dive deeper than skidpad and HP numbers. One more thing.... you can buy a ZL1 under MSRP. I did back in September and they are more common now. Just like the 1LE deals can be struck. So at MSRP ZL1 Vs under MSRP 1LE....
__________________
2016 2LZ Z06 Blade Silver
2013 ZL1 BLACK on BLACK <SOLD> Roto-Fab CAI 2010 2SS/RS BLACK on BLACK <SOLD> 3" MBRP 304 Stainless Exhaust Roto-Fab CAI |
|
03-05-2013, 03:44 PM | #20 | |
Too Many Great Choices
Drives: Grand Sport/Z07 Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: A Mountain Road
Posts: 7,454
|
Quote:
My thought is the 1LE is meant to be an alternative to the ZL1 by being NA. Not a can do "anything" ZL1 clone, but a master of one thing...tracking. It does need a little more power and then brakes to be perfect, but then it would be a Z**. |
|
03-05-2013, 05:33 PM | #21 | |
Drives: '13 Roush S3 '16 Ram Sport 4X4 Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Massachusetts
Posts: 3,100
|
Quote:
Don't get me wrong, you could do it under for what a ZL1 will cost, but you won't have the ZL1 mag ride and other little items that make a ZL1 a ZL1. |
|
03-05-2013, 08:42 PM | #22 | |
Est.1775
Drives: '15 Challenger Hellcat (sold) Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: SoCal
Posts: 5,502
|
Quote:
|
|
03-06-2013, 08:28 PM | #23 | |
|
Quote:
__________________
"Democracy Dies in Darkness" |
|
03-06-2013, 08:50 PM | #24 | |
|
Quote:
And you are right about a well planned H/C combo. It can be reliable and fun. But most importantly the work needs to performed by someone who knows exactly what they are doing. You will be moving the power band up a bit with less low end torque. A centrifugal charger provides the biggest boost at the big end, but loses no low end torque. One thing I have learned about modding a new is that you want to mostly add things you can take off and sell if you decide to change cars. I spent a good chunk of money upgrading my bushings that I wish I did not do now as i contemplate a 2014 1LE. Although I have enjoyed less wheelhop and rear stepout with this mod. The rest of my chassis mods will be showing up in the forum market. Even though I will most likely get that 2014 1LE (if it still exists, there are 2014 changes) but I have my eye on the next gen Camaro, Mustang, and Barracuda.
__________________
"Democracy Dies in Darkness" |
|
03-06-2013, 08:57 PM | #25 |
|
H/C combos are just as safe if well done. But there are a number of horror stories here from a botched cam install and/or a poor cam choice. This seems more common than mild FI projects gone bad. This could be just my perception. Plus I can remove my FI and sell it if i decide to get another car.
__________________
"Democracy Dies in Darkness" |
03-06-2013, 09:11 PM | #26 | |
|
Quote:
At ten tenths of the cars performance you have a point. Few of us go there. With all that said, I would rather have a ZL1.
__________________
"Democracy Dies in Darkness" |
|
03-06-2013, 09:15 PM | #27 |
|
$7,000 would cover install and tune. I have a price right now at $6,500 and no sales tax. I would spend that extra $500 (or maybe $750) on self installed long tubes. They would be on before I go in to get the FI installed.
__________________
"Democracy Dies in Darkness" |
06-11-2013, 10:47 PM | #28 |
Drives: 2012 Camaro 2SS/RS Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Cleveland, OH
Posts: 3,251
|
Sorry for the late reply...just came across this thread. In theory, it sounds good, and I may have come out ahead if I started with the base SS. However, for what I spent on my 2SS, all my mods and finally the supercharger, I could've just bought the ZL1. And yes, a good blower installed by a good shop is going to run you more than 6K.
Here's the way I look at it, though. Yes, I'd take a ZL1, but I think my car is at least as much fun. It has at least the same whp, but it's got all my custom mods. You can't just go to a Chevy dealer and purchase my car off the lot. It's the way I wanted it, with the gears I wanted and everything else. So I'm a happy camper
__________________
|
|
|
Thread Tools | |
|
|