06-06-2012, 11:19 AM | #15 |
Boosted Moderator
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My thoughts on this...
In all but extreme cases, it is to early to tell what affects will be seen related to factory or aftermarket parts. We have seen evidence of problems with the LCA's with aftermarket end links, but it is still undetermined if this was due to installation or design of the end links or the LCA's. As with so many products, time is the only true judge. There will be those that say I told you so, and others that will say I should have listened. And none of us know yet.. Testing is a good thing, but it can't possibly take in all variables... We've had guys run 600 HP on their factory diffs with no problem, and other that have broken stuff stock. Some 6060's shift great regardless of what's been thrown at them, and others fail on stock power as mine was doing before we started building my car... What we have here and we all need to remember, is that it is very early in the development stages for this car. I realize they have been out for three years, but in cars driven almost exclusively on the street, that's relatively infantile. Race cars that are driven 98 percent of the time at WOT are a different animal... I've not had any problems with my end link tabs, yet a bolt that holds the rear sway bushing mount (aftermarket sways) shot out of my car like a rocket on a 5 mph turn out of my neighborhood. Where am I going with this... It's always a crap shoot with anything mechanical. The best designed systems can fail, and the worst designed can go forever. No one knows...Granted the averages show that well designed tested items are typically going to hold up and perform as intended, but there are no guarantees. We all as owner/operators, need to have information available and we need to do our own research. Granted, manufacturers are the primary source of a lot of information, but they are by no means the only source.... Like finding a builder, or a tuner, or a widget for our cars... we ask around, talk to those that have said part, talk to those in the industry that are not personally involved, talk to other racers etc... There are two high level schools of thought here, and only time will determine which school is better, or even if one is better than the other... Chevy vs ford vs Dodge... It's never ending... and we as consumers have to make a choice based on our own personal experiences, knowledge and research. A member on this forum that is very highly respected by most all other members, recommended a manufacturer for a system on my car, I considered it, and went with a different vendor, why, because my experience had it that the second vendor used a process that in my line of work had proven to be successful... I hope all can see where my ramblings have gone here...
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If the car feels like it is on rails, you are probably driving too slow. -Ross Bentley
Horsepower is how fast you hit the wall. Torque is how far you take the wall with you. “If everything seems under control, you're just not going fast enough.” Mario Andretti If you can turn, you ain't going fast enough... |
01-30-2013, 09:30 AM | #16 |
Socal Mayhem
Drives: 2010 RJT 2SS/RS (KYORI) Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: MESA
Posts: 389
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sorry to resurrect such an old thread but did you ever find the dimensions or machine your own?? i just found myself in the same boat plenty of material and time but no money
and as much as i love pfadt i want to save my money to get their coil overs and sway bars
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03-10-2013, 08:16 AM | #17 | |
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I'm with you man. You can buy a small lathe for the price of the PFADT bushings. |
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12-16-2013, 08:34 PM | #18 | |
Drives: 2012 45th Anniversary 2SS Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: West Chester Ohio
Posts: 1,845
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Quote:
$370 solid rear subframe
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12-17-2013, 09:26 AM | #19 |
Drives: 2013 1LE AGM 2SS RS M6 Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: United States
Posts: 249
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I have personally seen the welds on a subframe cracked. If you want to go solid run a bead around the bushing housing. If you have seen the weld points you should be well aware of what I am talking about. Pete is right
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12-17-2013, 03:04 PM | #20 |
Drives: 2012 45th Anniversary 2SS Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: West Chester Ohio
Posts: 1,845
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I find it hilarious however that Pete, says that they will crack. But then fully says buy my product. The hypocrisy
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12-17-2013, 04:53 PM | #21 |
Drives: cars Join Date: May 2011
Location: Oversneeze
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12-17-2013, 05:06 PM | #22 |
2010 2SS/RS M6
Drives: 2010 2SS/RS M6 Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Auckland, NZ
Posts: 1,482
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Full bushings (urethane/delrin) versus solid bushings (aluminum)
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2/7/2014: 419 hp, 419 tq
Cosmetic: ZL1 front w/mailslot, painted stripes, powdercoated SS rims, tow hook, and full chrome delete Suspension: Pfadt subframe bushings, Pfadt rear UCA bushings, Z28 Upper control arms, Spohn trailing arms with BMR trailing arm & differential bushings, ZL1 Toe Rods and springs, Prothane radius arm inserts & steering rack bushing, Pfadt Sport front sway, FE4 conversion w/ DS rear sway, Pfadt strut brace Drivetrain: RMCR tune, CAI intake, Kooks headers, hi-flo cats & exhaust, VMAX TB, ZL1 fuel pump, LSR Tri-Ax shifter Bumblebee Racecar Build |
12-18-2013, 02:59 PM | #23 |
Drives: 2012 45th Anniversary 2SS Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: West Chester Ohio
Posts: 1,845
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Thank you for you very informative information about my misunderstanding of product lines between derlin with a aluminum core/ derlin bushing inserts/ full aluminum bushings. My point, was he stated that if the guy himself made them that they would cause a weld to crack. But, he then said that with their product their haven't been any reported cracking yet. Thanks.
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12-18-2013, 03:29 PM | #24 |
Drives: 2013 IOM 2SS 1LE Join Date: Aug 2013
Location: Damascus Or
Posts: 403
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Since all of the other joints that input loads to the subframe are rubber bushed (stock) or urethane (modified) shock loads to the subframe will not be greater using solid aluminum subframe mounts. At worst you might have some vibration/noise transfer to the main frame but with the links and rear axle housing isolated there shouldn't be much vibration in the subframe to transfer.
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12-18-2013, 04:00 PM | #25 | |
Drives: cars Join Date: May 2011
Location: Oversneeze
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Quote:
I'm not making a statement either way about the likelihood of cracking. On that I'm neutral. |
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12-18-2013, 09:04 PM | #26 | |
Drives: 2012 45th Anniversary 2SS Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: West Chester Ohio
Posts: 1,845
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Quote:
But yes you are 100% correct on that part.
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04-02-2014, 08:30 AM | #27 |
lol im so confused
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07-21-2014, 04:34 PM | #28 |
Drives: 1LE Join Date: Nov 2013
Location: Killeen TX
Posts: 13
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Still no dimensions?!?!
Last edited by j5ady; 07-21-2014 at 04:35 PM. Reason: Forgot question mark |
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