cruise cancel button feature

[larryyoung3197]

I know this is an old thread, but wondering if the switch link device is still available?

[dcarlos55]

The website ( http://www.switch-link.com/ ) still exists and has a phone number listed. I have no idea if they are still actually producing them though.

I have one of the updated boxes in my ZL1 and it works perfectly.

[larryyoung3197]

dcarlos55 the info is much appreciated.

[larryyoung3197]

went with the DIY given here. It's not the prettiest thing, but it works. Had to rewire after burning a diode which grounded the circuit, and it kept popping fuses. I'm not very good at wiring, but managed this thanks to the OP's write-up.

[Scotty D2014]

Originally Posted by mwt18

I can't resist helping out my fellow car guys, so here goes...

The parts you need are:
2x Directed Electronics (DEI) 8616 relays (got mine on amazon)
3x 1N4004 diodes (radioshack has 'em)
1x 2N3904 transistor (also stocked at radioshack)
1x in-line fuse (4A)
1x switch (your choice.. just no momentary switches.. the cruise cancel button is your momentary switch!)
~10 ft. of 18 gauge wire (exactly how much depends on where you locate your switch)
1 pack of wire taps (18-22 ga)
1 pack of butt connectors (18-22ga)
1 pack of ring terminals (18-22 ga)

Here's a pic of the components:


Close up of the prewired relay with wire color code:

The orange wires are not used in this application, so just cut them off and tape the ends.

My soldering skills are horrible, so I used wire taps to place the diodes across the relays and then wrapped it up with tape. Here's a pic before taping it up:


Next, is the transistor. The little bugger has 3 pins on it (C,B, and E) and they aren't all that flexible and break easily so take your time and carefully solder or otherwise connect them to some lead wires (different colors on the lead wire helps identify which pin is which). Then wrap it up in tape to secure. Here's that pic:


Now you're ready to build the circuit...Print out the diagram in my earlier post and label the different color wires on the print out. Then just use butt connectors and wire taps to join.. Here's mine:


In the end, you'll have 4 exiting wires:

• Yellow from one of the relays -- This goes to the gray wire in the steering column.

• Brown from the other relay -- This goes to the solenoid.

• Red wire -- To Arm switch and ultimately 12V source.

• Black wire -- To ground.

Next, I took the whole thing and wrapped it up in tape. I left one of the mounting holes on the relay open on one end and the 4 wires exit on the other end. This is a pretty good spot to mount it in the car (driver's side fuse panel):


The above pic also shows where you can ground the circuit (put ring terminal on end of black wire and attach to screw as shown)

Now, run the yellow wire up to the steering column and tap into the gray wire shown here:


Once you're tapped in, it will look something like this:


The brown wire needs to pass through the firewall and connect to the solenoid. There is a hole in the firewall that is perfect for this.. For the location, see this thread.

Now, is where things become dependent on where you locate the switch..

All's left to do is run the red wire to the switch and then to 12V..
A good place to tap into 12V is the BCM (it's above the accelerator pedal). There are 3 red/white wires that go into the white plug (farthest plug from front of the car). Run red wire here... Don't forget to add the fuse!
Will add pic..

This is where I put my switch... If you have a HUD, you'll obviously need to find another spot..


I'll finish this up when I get some more time...

Great work !!! After installing for over 18 yrs .. I'm not a fan of t-tap or scotch locks ... Solder the wires or do the Strip the wire & Poke and wrap technique!! A lot better connection ...

[Switch-Link]

Originally Posted by larryyoung3197

I know this is an old thread, but wondering if the switch link device is still available?

It is. Email me at switchlinkut@gmail.com

[Switchy]

Originally Posted by paslag

I'm installing a line lock on my car, but I wanted to use the ''cancel'' button from the cruice control. The entire cruise control panel runs with 1 data wire, so I came up with this circuit:

Any way to do this without T-Tapping into the gray cruise control wire? Any harness's or away to get past this kinda of iffy t-tapping wires in my Z.

[paslag]

Splice and solder, I never t-tap in anything

[2011WhiteSS]

Originally Posted by Switchy

Any way to do this without T-Tapping into the gray cruise control wire? Any harness's or away to get past this kinda of iffy t-tapping wires in my Z.

If a harness that could be made (and I haven't looked a the schematics) I would ask Ofer on here. Owner of Gen5DIY. 2ssrsgen5@diy


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Cash, Gas & A SS]

Anyone have one of those boards switchlink used to sell they would be willing to sell me?

[Cash, Gas & A SS]

Anyone know what the revisions are for the switch link version 2 compared to version 1 ?

[InfidelSpartan]

Originally Posted by Cash, Gas & A SS

Anyone have one of those boards switchlink used to sell they would be willing to sell me?

I have one. It’s more than likely a version 1, never installed. I bought it and never got around to installing it cause I stopped going to the track.

[Cash, Gas & A SS]

Originally Posted by InfidelSpartan

I have one. It’s more than likely a version 1, never installed. I bought it and never got around to installing it cause I stopped going to the track.

PMed!

[Cash, Gas & A SS]

Originally Posted by Superfly1

OK... I started from scratch and rewired the whole thing being very careful to make sure everything was on the right posts & going to right direction. I power it on and the left relay clicks. When off the cancel switch both 30 & 87 read .65V. When the cancel switch is pressed both move to 2.5V. Throughout all of this the right relay does nothing. I have 12.5V to 85, 86, 30, & 87a. Nothing to 87. Any ideas?

Originally Posted by paslag

So when you press the cruise button, at the base of the transistor you get 2.5V but on the collector side you dont have 0V? If thats the case, then either your transistor is not properly wired or its defective.
When the transistor receives a low current on the base side, he will let current pass between the collector and emitter sides, in this case letting gnd go to pin 85 of the relay then it should click and you will get 12v to pin 87.

Is anyone able to confirm the voltage coming off the grey wire? I’m ordering new custom circuit boards from China and and deciding if the base of the transistor needs a resistor. Max base voltage for the transistor in the schematic is 0.2A. I need the grey wire voltage to figure out the amps. I can’t measure myself right now because Car is buried behind snow and I live out of town.