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Old 09-15-2021, 11:57 AM   #29
Smokin19

 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lt4camaro View Post
I took them off to reduce road noise/harshness that comes thru the shock tower and hooks directly to the firewall thru those struts.
I hope for your sake you don't regret that.
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Old 09-15-2021, 11:58 AM   #30
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I took them off to reduce road noise/harshness that comes thru the shock tower and hooks directly to the firewall thru those struts.
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Old 09-15-2021, 12:14 PM   #31
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Originally Posted by lt4camaro View Post
I took them off to reduce road noise/harshness that comes thru the shock tower and hooks directly to the firewall thru those struts.

What?? Umm that isn't a good idea at all. If GM didn't think they needed to be there, they wouldn't have added them. Remind me never to purchase a used car from you.

PLEASE OP... whatever you do stay far far away from lt4camaro's advice... That isn't advice and should have never been done.

Last edited by jamala00; 09-15-2021 at 12:31 PM.
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Old 09-15-2021, 12:20 PM   #32
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That bracket is a support for the shock tower. It performs when taking high g lateral force at high speed in corners. That shock tower now floats on the bolted on uni-body. You will find your shock tower broken when you hit a big enough chuck hole. It will crumble like an egg. Please rethink this.
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Old 09-15-2021, 12:29 PM   #33
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This type of thing is one of the many many reasons I refuse to buy used cars... Not only unsafe, but just about impossible to fix once you cut the bolt short.
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Old 09-15-2021, 12:39 PM   #34
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Structural Integrity bro. Those braces are there for a reason:(
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Old 09-15-2021, 12:44 PM   #35
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the noise and vibrations come through the tire up through the strut and then the shock tower. taking the braces off might help, but id just remove the struts. that would make it butter smooth.
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Old 09-15-2021, 01:13 PM   #36
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the noise and vibrations come through the tire up through the strut and then the shock tower. taking the braces off might help, but id just remove the struts. that would make it butter smooth.
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Old 09-15-2021, 01:26 PM   #37
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Wow, you guys are unforgiving. 1st of all the 2 studs are still long enough for the strut end to go onto and to put on the OE nut .Once fully tightened there is stud thread still sticking out beyond the tightened nut. The struts can be bolted back on any time and I will put them back on when I am done with the car. I have been driving this car for several thousands of miles, I have made multiple 1/4 mile passes with the car and have continuously been driving the car spiritedly as always. There is absolutely no difference other than less noise. I never indicated or advised anyone to remove the struts and keep them off, the original OP wanted to know a way to remove and replace, and the length of those two studs still accept the oe nut once the struts are put back on and with stud thread out beyond the nut and properly torqued. My car will never be driven hard enough to to even come close to flexing the chassis to the point where the chassis finally needs the extra rigidity these braces supply
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Old 09-15-2021, 01:39 PM   #38
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Originally Posted by lt4camaro View Post
The struts can be bolted back on any time and I will put them back on when I am done with the car.
So in other words, screw the next owner and let them deal with the fallout. Hope everyone remembers this if you ever post it for sale here.
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Old 09-15-2021, 01:44 PM   #39
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So in other words, screw the next owner and let them deal with the fallout. Hope everyone remembers this if you ever post it for sale here.
And what possible fallout could there be. The chassis will be exactly the same as new, 2 small thin studs 3/8 inch shorter will affect nothing.
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Old 09-15-2021, 02:13 PM   #40
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Originally Posted by lt4camaro View Post
And what possible fallout could there be. The chassis will be exactly the same as new, 2 small thin studs 3/8 inch shorter will affect nothing.
You've removed structural bracing that is there to strengthen the car and ensure it does not flex under loading - without the bracing, there is flexing which stresses the metal of the unibody in ways it is not designed to cope with. This leads to metal fatigue and possible cracks, which increase the likelihood of failure even once you put the braces back on and also opportunities for corrosion by exposing metal that is not supposed to be exposed to air. Putting them back on just hides the fact that the car was driven in a compromised state for thousands of miles from an unsuspecting buyer.
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Old 09-15-2021, 02:17 PM   #41
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Originally Posted by Smokin19 View Post
You mean like this.

I'm sorry for the off topic but if you don't mind, where did you get the blower lid from? All the ones I have seen have a logo of some sort on them. The polished lid with no logos, bungs or designs looks really nice. I understand they are mostly bling but it looks really good.


Thanks,
Rod
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Old 09-15-2021, 02:43 PM   #42
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Originally Posted by JKSully View Post
You've removed structural bracing that is there to strengthen the car and ensure it does not flex under loading - without the bracing, there is flexing which stresses the metal of the unibody in ways it is not designed to cope with. This leads to metal fatigue and possible cracks, which increase the likelihood of failure even once you put the braces back on and also opportunities for corrosion by exposing metal that is not supposed to be exposed to air. Putting them back on just hides the fact that the car was driven in a compromised state for thousands of miles from an unsuspecting buyer.
I agree and understand with what you are saying and thinking regarding the addition of factory structural bracing and its intended purpose. Normal street driving will never tax the chassis to a point to where these structual pieces were added for which is high load road race conditions. Thats why some of the more important V8 bracing is not on the V6 cars or the 4 cyl 6th gen Camaros. Those intended high loads will never be reached.
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