What kind of stupid things has the dealer told you?

[My45thAnniversaryCamaro]

I'm super stuck with this dealer now because the only other Chevy dealer near me that's 30 miles away closed so now I'm stuck with this one. Before I would drive to another city to get my car serviced to avoid this dealer.

[lurker]

Originally Posted by AztecCamaro

Omg you should have taken away his man card

Is the clutch debate over now?

[chipset35]

Dealer: I am not making anything on this car
Me: Oh, well I don't want you to not make any money, I will go elsewhere
Dealer: No wait, come back!
Me: Another 1K off?
Dealer: Done!

[ChrisBlair]

Originally Posted by Cheveey57

All the above posts are why I never go to a dealer for work. Learn to turn a wrench and do it yourself.

Hi.

I built my '70 Buck GS455 convertible clone with the exception of the transmission and rear end. I did all bodywork with the exception of welding on the quarter panel skins. I did everything to prep for paint except actually shoot the color and clear. I didn't install the convertible top frame, and I didn't actually upholster the seats or put the body on the frame. I did install the roof twice ina span of twenty years, and I did install the upholstered seats.

Everything else was my own wrench.

I'm a very competent amateur mechanic. When the master cylinder I bought didn't have the right rod length, I diagrammed the system, measured the internals of my old original vs the new one, and discovered that I was sending half pressure to the rear wheels, and then half pressure from the front of the master to the rear. I measured and made the adjustment. Worked as normal. I've removed the entire wiring harness, forward aft and cabin, chased down all poor wires, replaced and re-soldered, then reinstalled. I've repaired my own speedometer.

I memorized the build book before I built my engine. I used to pull my engine to clean it. Every spring. I diagnosed my failing (new!) valve keepers while driving the car. I've replaced my cam and heads while it was snowing, outside. I've removed a crankshaft-again in the snow- so I can replace my main and rod bearings, over a weekend, so I could go back to work on Monday driving that car. I've rebuilt my carb by the side of the road.

I've made a drillblock on a bridgeport, inserted the correct drill bushings, and then drilled out the bolt broken off inside my engine block- and then since I didn't damage the threads in the block, I didn't need to heli-coil, because I did it right the first time.

What were you saying about "learn to turn a wrench", again? You've lost me. people who take their cars to the dealer for service while the car is under warranty don't know how to turn a wrench?

[Dupree878]

Originally Posted by AztecCamaro

Wow I just read my receipt and found out they topped off my tires with regular air. I have nitrogen filled tires with the green caps to indicate nitrogen. They also over filled it to 36psi because that's what the door sticker said.

I have the 21" Dusk rims and the Perelli tires have a max psi of 40. When I checked my psi they all said 39. For those I you who don't know, the 21 inch tires cost over $500 each an filling all 4 with nitrogen cost around $100.

Pardon my ignorance, but what do you mean over filling them to 36 PSI? That's where they're supposed to be, am I missing something?

[heRS]

Service manager told me I couldn't run 9" wheels on the front - doesn't seem to be causing me any problems. Oh, and the gill chips are because I live on a gravel road. Now if I drove that gravel road at speed limit (25 mph) I could agree, because when I do it in my pickup I can hear the gravel bouncing off the metal. I drive the gravel road at about 8-9 mph in the Camaro, and don't even raise too much dust. I'm pretty sure the gill chips are from driving at hwy speeds on wet roads in a car with crappy paint.

[MrPace]

When I took delivery of the car, my salesman told me my 2013 2SS has 87 octane in the tank, and that's what it was designed to run on. He also went ALL-IN and proceeded to tell me that if I put 93 in the tank, I risk damage to the engine unless I upgrade "a chip."

I shit you not.

[LostPony]

When I went back to the dealer that sold me my Boss a few days after getting it to bring in my SVT Focus that was part of the deal for the Boss, the sales manager asked me how I was liking my new car. I told him I loved it, and he then asked how many miles were on it.

Me: "Take a guess"
Him: "Um, about 300"
Me: "Over 600"
Him: "WHAT?!? You can't drive it that much!"
Me: "Why? Is it gonna break?"

I had driven the car from the dealer in Maryland, just north of DC, to Burke VA, then to Summit Point WV, and back to Burke to pick up buddy to drive Focus for me. Then to Morgantown WV area to get the Focus, and back to dealer. Then back to Burke, and home to Morgantown. Ended up with almost 900 miles on the clock in just 4 days time. I did the first oil change at 1200 miles within a week of getting the car.

[AztecCamaro]

I'm done debating the clutch, it wasn't the point of my thread. People will do what they want to do.

Dupree878- read the side wall of the tire on your dusk. It says max psi of 40. The dealer put the air pressure to 36 with the tires cold. After driving the 25 miles back to my house, the pressures had risen to 39. That was under normal conditions. Had I been hard on my tires, they would have risen even more. I've seen my tire pressures raise from 32 to 40 during hard sport driving through the mountains. It's just too close to the max for comfort for me.

[JohnnyBfromPeoria]

Originally Posted by AztecCamaro

I've seen my tire pressures raise from 32 to 40 during hard sport driving through the mountains. It's just too close to the max for comfort for me.

The max air pressure on the sidewall of your tires also says "cold." It doesn't imply that the tire pressure cannot exceed that pressure when hot.

When was the last time you knew of a tire blowing because of over pressurization? Tires fail when they are under inflated, leading to overheating and disintegration.

You can inflate your tires to the cold maximum when they are in fact cold, and drive to your heart's content without worry. The ride will be harsh, but it won't lead to a failure. They're designed to do that.

John B.

[AztecCamaro]

^ I didn't know that was a cold psi on the side wall. Good to know

[ChrisBlair]

Originally Posted by LostPony

When I went back to the dealer that sold me my Boss a few days after getting it to bring in my SVT Focus that was part of the deal for the Boss, the sales manager asked me how I was liking my new car. I told him I loved it, and he then asked how many miles were on it.

Me: "Take a guess"
Him: "Um, about 300"
Me: "Over 600"
Him: "WHAT?!? You can't drive it that much!"
Me: "Why? Is it gonna break?"

I had driven the car from the dealer in Maryland, just north of DC, to Burke VA, then to Summit Point WV, and back to Burke to pick up buddy to drive Focus for me. Then to Morgantown WV area to get the Focus, and back to dealer. Then back to Burke, and home to Morgantown. Ended up with almost 900 miles on the clock in just 4 days time. I did the first oil change at 1200 miles within a week of getting the car.

The obvious situation is well, the manager knows its a Ford!

Sorry, couldn't resist.

[Bonanza7]

1----the MSRP is the price the dealer paid for the car.
2----the car is fresh off the truck---but has 114 miles on it
3----burned out tail lights...after 2 weeks on a new car are normal wear and tear, not covered by warranty
4----don't know about Dexos1, we just use whatever oil come out of the barrel.

[13lstuner]

Originally Posted by Bonanza7

1----the MSRP is the price the dealer paid for the car.
2----the car is fresh off the truck---but has 114 miles on it
3----burned out tail lights...after 2 weeks on a new car are normal wear and tear, not covered by warranty
4----don't know about Dexos1, we just use whatever oil come out of the barrel.

Seems like a very knowledgable dealer there....