10-01-2014, 11:27 AM | #1 |
Drives: Cammed 2010 SS Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: Albuquerque
Posts: 390
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Boost or Stroker?
So I've been thinking of doing a big upgrade to my car within the next year or so. I have been stuck between going with a stroker build and going boost. I was thinking of going stroker then boost but I want a car I can drive almost daily and I think a stroker would kill my gas mileage even more than it is. I was planning to do a stroker first then going boost a year or two later so I could have a reliable engine when building the stroker. Now I am thinking of just running 7-9 psi through a turbo or supercharger. I would get the same or even better performance through boost than just a N/A stroker but then again I wouldn't have as reliable of an engine. Anyways, what do you guys think? And if I do go boost, would a supercharger or turbo be better? I lover the sound of a blow off valve but then again I like the idea of having instant power from a supercharger than having turbo lag. Let me know what you guys think! Thanks!
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2010 Camaro 2SS/RS LS3 - 450rwhp and 425tq
- TSP 231/236 Cam, Dynatech 1 7/8" LT Headers, Dynatech Cat Delete, CAI Intake, BMR 1.4" Drop Springs, Hurst Short Throw Shifter, Magnaflow Street Series Axle-Back w/X-pipe - Tuned by Ivan @ SouthwestSpeed |
10-02-2014, 11:10 AM | #2 |
Drives: Cammed 2010 SS Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: Albuquerque
Posts: 390
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No one?
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2010 Camaro 2SS/RS LS3 - 450rwhp and 425tq
- TSP 231/236 Cam, Dynatech 1 7/8" LT Headers, Dynatech Cat Delete, CAI Intake, BMR 1.4" Drop Springs, Hurst Short Throw Shifter, Magnaflow Street Series Axle-Back w/X-pipe - Tuned by Ivan @ SouthwestSpeed |
10-03-2014, 02:01 AM | #3 |
Fight Crime, Drive Armed
Drives: '14 2SS Yelo Maro, HD collection Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: NRH, TX
Posts: 985
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There's no substitute for cubic inches. Especially when those cubic inches are serious steel and forged aluminum components. No more worries about breaking the internals.
The you add the stealth factor, which can help pay for some of the big inches by unsuspecting folks having to give you their money.
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Bring back Sunoco 260 to the local station. Some folks STILL drive L-88s and need the good gas.
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10-03-2014, 02:09 AM | #4 |
Drives: 2015 Summit White 2SS 1LE Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Vance Alabama
Posts: 8,019
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No replacement for displacement except boost. I'd go boost but I'm biased. Stock internals with 600rwhp. Its all in the fuel delivery and tune.
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Retired wanna be cylinder head porter
2015 2SS 1LE Clutch reservoir, Vararam DRX, ported TB, TSP 2" headers, MGW shifter Totalled: 2010 1SS Wilkes Performance/Eagle 416 shortblock, TSP custom valvetrain, PRC 260 heads, Edelbrock Pro Flo 102, th400 swap, 8" PTC 5500 stall= 535/435 at the wheels tuned Gen 3 Performance and Dyno 10.97 @ 124 full weight in 3100 DA CamaroFest X |
10-03-2014, 03:35 AM | #5 | |
Drives: 2013 A6 GT 5.0 Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: Edmond, OK
Posts: 2,909
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Quote:
Get a good supercharger or turbo kit. If you keep it under 10psi, have a great tuner and plenty of fuel supply it will last a very long time with better driveability than stock. If the 500RWHP-700RWHP that you get from a FI kit isn't enough then you could always build the motor up later for even more power. Whether or not to get a turbo or supercharger kit? Well, that's a personal decision. It comes down to money, overall power needs, where in the RPM range you want the power band, if you are a auto or manual Trans car, reliability and ease of maintenance. A PD supercharger kit is the least amount of money with the best off idle torque but gives the lowest amount of horsepower. I should say least amount of money in the 500-600RWHP range. These kits can get real expensive when upgrades are needed to control belt slip, high IAT's and to get more boost and CFM. I have seen people spend more money on PD blower upgrades to control belt slip, high IAT's or get more CFM(power) out of their PD blower cars then the blower kit cost in the first place. In other words if your going to want over 700RWHP then this is not the wisest decision. These kits work well with a manual or auto Trans. PD supercharger kits also cap out at around 800RWHP but with expensive upgrades. They are the easiest to maintain and most reliable. Basically a bolt on and forget type of power adder. This kit doesn't need a converter or gear to be fast but of course those add ons can make it faster. A centri SC kit can have a much higher max HP ceiling than a PD blower with the right head unit but builds power/boost with RPM. Much less off idle torque but more max RPM horsepower. Works best with a auto car with a converter and some gear. This kit puts less stress on the engine than a PD blower car in the same power range. Less reliable with more maintenance than a PD blower. The turbo kit easily makes the most HP and torque per pound of boost out of all three types of FI. It is the most expensive type of kit. Has the most power potential. Puts the least amount of stress on the engine at the same power range. Gets the best MPG out of all 3 types of FI. It is however the least reliable kit with most likely the most maintenance. I also hardly ever see a fast manual Trans turbo car. This type of kit is best used in a auto with a matched stall so there is 0 boost lag. In a auto car with the right converter this type of kit probably has the potential to be the fastest of all three types of FI. I wouldn't want to daily drive this kit though.
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BLK/BLK 1SS/RS Ordered 11-01-2009 Took delivery 12-22-2009. Heads/cam/converter/bolt ons. SOLD Feb 2015 to fund 6th gen LT1 SS with 8L90E.
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10-03-2014, 01:24 PM | #6 |
Drives: 2010 RS/SS Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Mooresville, NC
Posts: 959
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Forced induction is a much better bang for the buck, you're talking at minimum 100rwhp...with headers and a cam you can easily add a lot more. You won't get that from doing a stroker alone. Your gas mileage would be better with boost than a stroker also (unless you're in it all the time). I wouldn't say the motor is any less reliable either as long as it has good parts, good gas and a good tune.
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10-03-2014, 01:44 PM | #7 |
Drives: Cammed 2010 SS Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: Albuquerque
Posts: 390
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Thanks guys. My original plan was to build up and have a 500hp+ N/A engine then go boost but now I am thinking I don't want that much power especially since it's my daily right now. Most I want out of my car is 575-600hp so boost is what I'm probably gonna end up doing. I might go with a single turbo set up just to get me to 525-550hp then do head work to get me close to 600hp.
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2010 Camaro 2SS/RS LS3 - 450rwhp and 425tq
- TSP 231/236 Cam, Dynatech 1 7/8" LT Headers, Dynatech Cat Delete, CAI Intake, BMR 1.4" Drop Springs, Hurst Short Throw Shifter, Magnaflow Street Series Axle-Back w/X-pipe - Tuned by Ivan @ SouthwestSpeed |
10-03-2014, 06:55 PM | #8 |
Drives: 2015 Summit White 2SS 1LE Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Vance Alabama
Posts: 8,019
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I've got 40k miles on my Paxton and all I've done is changed the oil in it every time I do an oil change on the engine.
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Retired wanna be cylinder head porter
2015 2SS 1LE Clutch reservoir, Vararam DRX, ported TB, TSP 2" headers, MGW shifter Totalled: 2010 1SS Wilkes Performance/Eagle 416 shortblock, TSP custom valvetrain, PRC 260 heads, Edelbrock Pro Flo 102, th400 swap, 8" PTC 5500 stall= 535/435 at the wheels tuned Gen 3 Performance and Dyno 10.97 @ 124 full weight in 3100 DA CamaroFest X |
10-03-2014, 07:13 PM | #9 |
Drives: 2012 2SSRS Vert, Black w/M6 Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: Montgomery, AL
Posts: 1,265
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I say FI if you plan on staying around 600hp. I'm at 550, don't even have headers, and I haven't spent 5 grand on it yet.
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10-06-2014, 02:31 PM | #10 |
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Stroker! Buy a motor then sell your old 376 block and put that money towards boost. Win Win!!!
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10-06-2014, 03:04 PM | #11 |
Drives: Cammed 2010 SS Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: Albuquerque
Posts: 390
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See that was my original plan but then I got to thinking that the mpg that I'll have won't be suitable as a daily. I drive 15 minutes to school and 15 minutes back home twice a day so that's an hour of city driving everyday which already hurts the wallet lol so that's why I was just thinking maybe I should go boost.
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2010 Camaro 2SS/RS LS3 - 450rwhp and 425tq
- TSP 231/236 Cam, Dynatech 1 7/8" LT Headers, Dynatech Cat Delete, CAI Intake, BMR 1.4" Drop Springs, Hurst Short Throw Shifter, Magnaflow Street Series Axle-Back w/X-pipe - Tuned by Ivan @ SouthwestSpeed |
10-06-2014, 04:06 PM | #12 |
Drives: 2015 Summit White 2SS 1LE Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Vance Alabama
Posts: 8,019
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Keep all the parts you have now except the CAI and throw a ECS kit on it.
__________________
Retired wanna be cylinder head porter
2015 2SS 1LE Clutch reservoir, Vararam DRX, ported TB, TSP 2" headers, MGW shifter Totalled: 2010 1SS Wilkes Performance/Eagle 416 shortblock, TSP custom valvetrain, PRC 260 heads, Edelbrock Pro Flo 102, th400 swap, 8" PTC 5500 stall= 535/435 at the wheels tuned Gen 3 Performance and Dyno 10.97 @ 124 full weight in 3100 DA CamaroFest X |
10-06-2014, 04:19 PM | #13 | |
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Quote:
I'd do the stroker over boost. But that's just my preference. |
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