08-25-2009, 07:29 PM | #71 | |
formerly "wh0rsep0wer"
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08-25-2009, 07:42 PM | #72 | |
SS/RSVIN04274
Drives: 2010 CAMARO. Join Date: Apr 2009
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Quote:
Last edited by SSRS2010; 08-25-2009 at 08:07 PM. |
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08-25-2009, 07:42 PM | #73 |
Taking it 1 day at a time
Drives: 2010 Chevy Camaro 2SS/RS Auto Join Date: Apr 2009
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Yeah, I understand that. But... my point is, my dealer put 87 in the car, I know he did because he told me. There is an underlying issue here on why some cars ECU is not readjusting to the different octane levels as they change. I've only put 93 into it since I picked it up.
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08-25-2009, 08:00 PM | #74 | ||
formerly "wh0rsep0wer"
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Think of the high octane and low octane tables as a coarse adjustment to "get it in the ballpark" and the knock retard as a fine tuning adjustment... These screenshots are from a 2002 Z28 factory default configuration...1st screenshot is the Spark Advance Menu, 2nd screenshot is the High Octane Table, and 3rd screenshot is the Low Octane Table. Notice the BIG differences between the two tables occur at WOT (the values at the bottom of each screenshot) THAT IS WHY THIS WORKS!!!
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2012 2LS - Black A6 (SOLD) 2016 1SS Summit White A8 |
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08-25-2009, 08:08 PM | #75 |
BulletBob
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91 Octane in CA
Just curious...
I live in CA where the hightest octane gas I've seen is 91. I realize some states have 93. So I'm wondering where the L99's ECU makes the determination on which of the two memory tables to use? If I use 91 octane, will the ECU boot the high power table?
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08-25-2009, 08:09 PM | #76 | |
formerly "wh0rsep0wer"
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Quote:
__________________
2010 1SS/RS - CGM/Gray Interior - M6 (SOLD) Kooks 1 7/8" headers, Solo Mach-X, Vararam.
2012 2LS - Black A6 (SOLD) 2016 1SS Summit White A8 |
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08-25-2009, 08:11 PM | #77 | |
SS/RSVIN04274
Drives: 2010 CAMARO. Join Date: Apr 2009
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08-25-2009, 08:16 PM | #78 |
Drives: 1968 camaro ss, 2010 camaro1ss Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: ripley,wv
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I pulled the fuses and left them out for 3 hours and the car does run better not a tremendous amount but it does run better. Idle quality is the biggest difference I noticed, it just feels smoother all over and the more I drove it the better it ran. In my opinion its well worth the time to do this.
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08-25-2009, 08:21 PM | #79 |
formerly "wh0rsep0wer"
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I have revised the screenshots for clarity...
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2010 1SS/RS - CGM/Gray Interior - M6 (SOLD) Kooks 1 7/8" headers, Solo Mach-X, Vararam.
2012 2LS - Black A6 (SOLD) 2016 1SS Summit White A8 |
08-25-2009, 08:37 PM | #80 |
ZEUSS
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08-25-2009, 08:43 PM | #81 |
ECM issues with GM cars have been around for a while, normally just ECM fuses blowing because of a failing injector or something. This is a first I've heard about the octane problem but it does make sense. I've been having a rough idle so I'm curious to see if this temp fixes it. I believe you could also reset by removing the negative terminal ONLY from the battery. I'm going to disconnect my MAF sensor as well with this mod.
Best thread I've read so far.
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08-25-2009, 08:45 PM | #82 |
Drives: 2023 ZLE Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Detroit
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wh0rsep0wer:
I'm pretty amazed at the level of access you seem to have to automotive ECM calibration tables. I'm shocked the OEM's give out encryption keys to aftermarket software companies for this type of access. There must be some waivers signed for that. Do you actually have write access to those tables? If so it seems like an easy way to jack up an emissions calibration and subsequent catalyst life. I know most folks here have no concern about that but I could see a lot of so called "experts" out there with this type of tool really jacking things up. So I can see from what you have shown, at least on the 2002 Z28, there are two cal tables. I guess my point revolves around the strategy code. I understand how you say it works in the presence of knock but why doesn't it revert after a key cycle? It would be really good to hear from somebody "in the know" from GM on this. No offense meant to you at all on this. You seem to know your stuff. Great info. |
08-25-2009, 09:13 PM | #83 | |
formerly "wh0rsep0wer"
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Quote:
You are also correct about the ability to "jack" things up...it is extremely easy to blow up your motor changing parameters this easily...THAT is why dealers have a good case for voiding warranties based on ECM flashes. This should ONLY be attempted by professionals. In my case, I'm not a professional tuner but I work with instrumentation and control systems in the nuclear industry. More importantly I know just enough about it to know how easy it is to screw stuff up, so I'm EXTREMELY cautious with my tuning. It is entirely possible that the tables are supposed to revert after a key cycle...it makes complete sense to do it that way. I'm also curious to find out the true prognosis on why some of these ECU's aren't reverting...
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2010 1SS/RS - CGM/Gray Interior - M6 (SOLD) Kooks 1 7/8" headers, Solo Mach-X, Vararam.
2012 2LS - Black A6 (SOLD) 2016 1SS Summit White A8 |
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08-25-2009, 09:17 PM | #84 |
Drives: 2021 Shadow Gray RS LT1 Join Date: Jul 2009
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It looks like that puller can be used two ways (on either the length or width of the fuse) as it has claws on both ends of the tool. If the fuse has a lip on the upper edge of all 4 sides, that is.... I am just guessing here as I have not looked at nor have I pulled any fuses for a long time.... and those fuses look smaller than ones I have seen in my youth.
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