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Old 11-11-2010, 05:05 PM   #141
overhaulengines
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GJG View Post
1 more question....did you sand off the red paint over spray on the inner side before "gluing the 2 together?
not to sure exactly where your talking about but, any where there is sealant, i lightly sanded and wiped with alcohal.

lupe
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Old 11-12-2010, 11:11 AM   #142
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Can prepainted scoops be installed in a clean fashion so as to negate the need for a surrounding area spray bend?

How long does it take the two-part adhesive to dry?
My port were prepaint, the area where the sealant is applied was not pained, therefore a light sand/scuff and wipe with alcohal worked perfect. i had the ports clamped for about 2 hours, no problem so far to date

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Old 11-12-2010, 01:48 PM   #143
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Originally Posted by overhaulengines View Post
My port were prepaint, the area where the sealant is applied was not pained, therefore a light sand/scuff and wipe with alcohal worked perfect. i had the ports clamped for about 2 hours, no problem so far to date

lupe
the area has overspray on mine....Gary did not tape it off....so i will sand it prior to installing....hopfully tonight.!!
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Old 11-12-2010, 01:52 PM   #144
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Can you explain your technique for clamping the port?
Most convoluted install method I have ever seen but this is what the instructions say to do....I have illustrated it the best I can....LOL

yellow = wooden paint stirrers

Red = Spring Clamps



now imagine 4 or 5 of those holding it all tight while the adhesive dries.....
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Old 11-12-2010, 04:23 PM   #145
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GJG View Post
Most convoluted install method I have ever seen but this is what the instructions say to do....I have illustrated it the best I can....LOL

yellow = wooden paint stirrers

Red = Spring Clamps



now imagine 4 or 5 of those holding it all tight while the adhesive dries.....
That's how I did it. Very good Job on the illustration

Lup
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Old 11-12-2010, 05:32 PM   #146
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i don't like the lights.. it would look better with the round original dr's deep inside that would look sweet..just my two cents but i love the cups looks bad to the bone..great job either way..
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Old 11-12-2010, 05:45 PM   #147
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i don't like the lights.. it would look better with the round original dr's deep inside that would look sweet..just my two cents but i love the cups looks bad to the bone..great job either way..
Hi. Once I got the ports installed, we started to figure a way to mount the original lights. On e I had them set inside the ports, I just wasn't feeling it , u know. Round light, square port, just didn't work for me. Yeah, I'm not totally excited a out the light strips but ohh well. Now that I have the Razzi GFX installed, the have small ports at the bottom. I'm going to mount led's in there. Thanks for the input

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Old 11-12-2010, 10:09 PM   #148
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Thanks

I just received a set of ports; no templates, no instructions and an abraded outer flanged surface on one of the ports. The shipping box looked like it was fabricated in a third world country and packaged at 5PM on a Friday. The response I got from the supplier implied I did my job, I received them and I shipped them out.
Sorry to here that, who did u purchase them from? That way others can avoid them. Maybe even post us a pic of what and how they sent the stuff.

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Old 11-19-2010, 06:30 PM   #149
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After waiting four weeks to receive my order and an additional week waiting for ACS and Gary’s Customz to mail the shorted items, I’m hoping someone might have the noted items and be willing to mail them to me. Can anyone help me out?
i may still have mine but it will be monday before i can send it out...

btw.....thanks to you Lupe and the tips in your DIY i got mine in!!!



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Old 11-20-2010, 09:11 AM   #150
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i may still have mine but it will be monday before i can send it out...

btw.....thanks to you Lupe and the tips in your DIY i got mine in!!!



that is freaking sweet, please post any advise or ideas, i will add them to the first post.

lupe
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Old 11-20-2010, 11:42 AM   #151
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updated 1st post with importand links guys, if you have done and/or are doing the port install and you have some good info to help others, please post and i will update the the first post.

thanks

lupe
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Old 11-20-2010, 06:15 PM   #152
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Question on T# port install

overhaulengines and GJG

Do you have any more pics from different angles of the front end...


I had only one concern... When I install these ports, do they have the proper bend on the outside rim of the port to mount completely flush to the bumber with no gaps?

I was worried that if I cut the hole just a little off, then the port might not lay completely flat on the contour of the corner of the bumber... I want them to be totally flush and look like they were painted while on the bumber, even though Gary's is painting them for me and I will be installing them prepainted...Thanks for your input...
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Old 11-20-2010, 06:31 PM   #153
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Will the T3's still work?

I have a ADM Cold Air Intake Race Scoop installed... It makes a huge difference with my supercharger....
Here is some pics as to how it is installed... For those that have installed the T3's will this have to be removed you think?


Thanks guys
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Old 11-20-2010, 07:03 PM   #154
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Quote:
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overhaulengines and GJG

Do you have any more pics from different angles of the front end...


I had only one concern... When I install these ports, do they have the proper bend on the outside rim of the port to mount completely flush to the bumber with no gaps?

I was worried that if I cut the hole just a little off, then the port might not lay completely flat on the contour of the corner of the bumber... I want them to be totally flush and look like they were painted while on the bumber, even though Gary's is painting them for me and I will be installing them prepainted...Thanks for your input...
the answer is yes and no.....they fit very well but the fascia is very flexible so after you install and get it all clamped in place you use shims....not supplied.....between the inner ring and the inside of the fascia to "push" it out tight with the flange on the t3. this is in the instructions.....

i was anal about this as well.....if the t3 flange and the facia have gaps between them it will look aftermarket......

the shims are the trick though.....i cut up some 1/16 and 1/8" shims and it does the trick.....the center side upper corner is tricky to shim due to inner fascia parts being in the way but in my opinion is the most critical corner for a factory look.....it is also the corner that needed the most help....

after the adhesive dried i used a urethane caulk......(i own an autoglass business so it was readily available and cures rigid).....to seal the inner "gap" which served to lock the shims in place....

















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Last edited by GJG; 11-20-2010 at 07:27 PM.
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