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Old 03-18-2020, 04:00 PM   #15
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As you know, bearing clearances is my gut feeling.
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Old 03-18-2020, 04:21 PM   #16
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As you know, bearing clearances is my gut feeling.
Ya. I think I was in denial. I'm kind of scared to see if damage was done. It ran probably a total of 2 minutes. I hope the oil that it had was efficient enough to protect it. Pretty nerve racking, I've been dealing with back issues and a couple of surgeries so it took a couple of years to get to the point of starting it. Now I'm somewhat better but it's taken this long to only have to tear it back down. This was my first time removal/install and rebuilding an automobile engine before and had zero help but I've done countless turbine powerplants though. I hope this time it goes faster

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Old 03-18-2020, 04:30 PM   #17
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Sorry to hear that. It does suck when you put your trust in someone else and then your let down, believe me I have been there. Hope you find it’s something simple, best of luck.
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Old 03-18-2020, 04:42 PM   #18
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Sorry to hear that. It does suck when you put your trust in someone else and then your let down, believe me I have been there. Hope you find it’s something simple, best of luck.
Thanks man. The speed shop that did this initial job costed 8k and got 750 miles with me bringing it atleast 4 times back and they blamed my headers making the noise. Now this happens. It sucks

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Old 03-18-2020, 10:33 PM   #19
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I think there is a communication gap. By design oil should be coming out from that location between the journal and the bearing. If it’s coming from behind the beAring, then no. How much should be coming out, not sure. I’ve never ran a motor without a timing cover. If no oil comes out then you wont have enough oil supply to your timing chain
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Old 03-19-2020, 08:53 AM   #20
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I think there is a communication gap. By design oil should be coming out from that location between the journal and the bearing. If it’s coming from behind the beAring, then no. How much should be coming out, not sure. I’ve never ran a motor without a timing cover. If no oil comes out then you wont have enough oil supply to your timing chain
Well damn. I never new that but it makes sense and completely makes me abort pulling the motor. What do you think about relief valve being stuck half way open ? Or could be bearing clearances?

All I have left is half the bell housing bolts and then the motor can come out.

Thanks blue-bayou for the good info. Give me your address and I can send you an engine with a unique oil pressure issue if you want some practice. Haha

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Old 03-19-2020, 11:14 AM   #21
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HA, that's ok. I spent some time skimming your other posts. and ........
It looks like you've been having this problem for about 6 or 7 years. Have you ever not had an issue since the first time? It seems like there has been some bad damage in the engine in the past. I'm not so disinclined to negate a crack in the block that ties into your oiling circuit. But enough of worst case scenario.

I think the relief valve being stuck partly open is possible, but you would be able to see that by pulling apart the oil pump-broken spring or something. It's been awhile since I opened one. I think I have an old one. If I remember tonight I'll try to refresh my memory about what to look for.

If I were you, based on remote info, I would obtain a new OEM standard pump, open it up and pack it with vaseline, install and button it up. If steady idle is above 600 RPM and oil pressure isn't at least 40psig, then you most likely have an internal oil leak and will need to pull the motor. If the pressure is even less than the HVHP pump, then most likely a clearance issue.

Possible internal leak points(no all inclusive):
Cam retainer plate
rear engine cover
valley cover o-rings
excessive rod side clearance
excessive journal/bearing clearance
excessive cam bearing clearance
improper bearing installation
lifters
crack in oil circuit

Don't rule out the possibility that the oil pick up isn't installed correctly or plugged
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Last edited by blue-bayou; 03-19-2020 at 12:03 PM. Reason: revised target pressure
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Old 03-19-2020, 07:45 PM   #22
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HA, that's ok. I spent some time skimming your other posts. and ........
It looks like you've been having this problem for about 6 or 7 years. Have you ever not had an issue since the first time? It seems like there has been some bad damage in the engine in the past. I'm not so disinclined to negate a crack in the block that ties into your oiling circuit. But enough of worst case scenario.

I think the relief valve being stuck partly open is possible, but you would be able to see that by pulling apart the oil pump-broken spring or something. It's been awhile since I opened one. I think I have an old one. If I remember tonight I'll try to refresh my memory about what to look for.

If I were you, based on remote info, I would obtain a new OEM standard pump, open it up and pack it with vaseline, install and button it up. If steady idle is above 600 RPM and oil pressure isn't at least 40psig, then you most likely have an internal oil leak and will need to pull the motor. If the pressure is even less than the HVHP pump, then most likely a clearance issue.

Possible internal leak points(no all inclusive):
Cam retainer plate
rear engine cover
valley cover o-rings
excessive rod side clearance
excessive journal/bearing clearance
excessive cam bearing clearance
improper bearing installation
lifters
crack in oil circuit

Don't rule out the possibility that the oil pick up isn't installed correctly or plugged
I had a long message typed up that clarified some things and I went to post it and ended up losing the message.

Installed bolt-ons at 7k miles

I had the motor rebuilt at about 35,000 miles (28,000 after modded). From a failed oil pump.

Had it rebuilt at 50,000 miles from bearing failure.

Rebuild lasted around 750 miles from bearing failures. When I got it back from the builder I was having temp issues ( temp wouldn't stabilize and I bled the system) and the top end was making noises. I pulled the motor out and machine shop did short block and installed the top end and installed motor and that's where I'm at.

I've had a few different issues with it. The last rebuild was about 3 years ago and it's taken me all that time to rebuild it and be where I'm at. I've had to save up funds and also have ongoing medical crap that keeps me sidelined. All the time passing makes it hard to follow those threads.

I do have my oil pump right here so I will pull the spring. I wanted to hold off taking it apart til I knew what to look for.

I've changed valley cover orings and checked the cam plate.
I'm concerned about the bearings though since I've lost a couple motors from failures. So I've been debating on pulling the motor checking all the main bearings along with cam bearings.
Then install a different pump and make sure it's properly primed so at start up if I lose pressure or it's low it won't screw anything up.

I'm not in a big rush and rather it all be done right rather than just get it going. All I have left is a few bellhousing bolts and it will be ready to go. Plus Iike digging into things for fun.

What exactly will the vasoline do when packed in the pump? I've heard of doing that before but never knew why.

I want to thank you for the advice and help. It's hard to find help and people that take the time to give complete and sound advice.





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Old 03-19-2020, 08:41 PM   #23
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Vaseline fills in the cavities in the pump, so that when the gears rotate and mesh together, the Vaseline is squeezed between them, and as the gears begin to separate, the Vaseline tends to stick to both surfaces, helping to form suction. It really helps the oil pump pull oil through the pickup tube on fresh builds.

Is this car an auto or manual?
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Old 03-19-2020, 09:00 PM   #24
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I never knew that. That's good info, thanks. Is that something you do other then filling the oil pump with oil?

This is a manual.

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Old 03-20-2020, 05:16 AM   #25
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I never knew that. That's good info, thanks. Is that something you do other then filling the oil pump with oil?

This is a manual.

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Yes. Priming the pump and engine is best. But the vaseline trick works if you don't have the primer tool.
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Old 03-20-2020, 01:21 PM   #26
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I've never been into one of these engines, but read about the barbell at rear of engine/by filter passages. Could there be a problem with it that could be your cause of low pressure? Was it replaced or at least new o-rings around it? Just a thought/possibility. I could be totally wrong but someone chime in and/or correct.
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Old 03-20-2020, 01:48 PM   #27
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Do you still need a diagram of the oil flow for the LS3/L99?
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Old 03-20-2020, 01:57 PM   #28
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Do you still need a diagram of the oil flow for the LS3/L99?
I have the diagram but was looking for the discription to see how the oil is routed

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