04-02-2020, 06:42 PM | #57 | |
Drives: Black 2ss Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Illinois
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04-02-2020, 07:13 PM | #58 |
Drives: Black 2ss Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Illinois
Posts: 232
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04-02-2020, 07:50 PM | #59 |
Drives: 2015 1LE Join Date: Oct 2015
Location: Cleveland, OH
Posts: 1,485
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probably not, I would replace it though
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04-02-2020, 10:48 PM | #60 |
Drives: 2010 CGM 2SS/RS LS3 Swapped A6 Join Date: Sep 2016
Location: Spring Hill, FL
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A few companies make a really nice billet oil barbell/diverter for less than $30. Would probably make a nice upgrade while you have things apart. SAC City Corvette is one I know of.
https://www.saccitycorvette.com/Billet-BarBell.html Obviously this isn't a necessity, but for the price it's kind of a 'why not while I'm in there' buy.
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04-12-2020, 08:08 AM | #61 |
Drives: Black 2ss Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Illinois
Posts: 232
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I wanted to add a little update to what I found so far and I think I messed up when putting the motor together. I was doing it over a few month process and part of that time was me moving to a new house. During that time my garage wasnt the cleanest it should of been.
So I pulled the oil pan off and found a layer of lint fibers that looked like they came from my shop towels. I don't know if this would cause my oil pressure to never go past 30 psi and not rise with rpm. I just wanted to put this out and see if this could be the cause but It's probably a long shot though. I posted a couple pictures. One is the lint that I scraped off and the other is picture showing what was covered up. I know I screwed up when putting it together and should of waited til i moved where I am now and have a nice clean shop now. Any ideas? besides keep things cleaner when I'm working Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk |
04-12-2020, 09:32 AM | #62 |
Drives: 2015 1LE Join Date: Oct 2015
Location: Cleveland, OH
Posts: 1,485
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I would definitely think that could make your oil pressure drop
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04-12-2020, 10:40 AM | #63 | |
Drives: Black 2ss Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Illinois
Posts: 232
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Quote:
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04-12-2020, 04:13 PM | #64 |
Fast Cars and Old Guitars
Drives: 2015 2SS RS (L99, baby!) Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: N. CA
Posts: 3,974
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OP, I was reading through this and saw this and I had to laugh - WITH you! This describes my mechanical (electrical, plumbing, etc, etc) life. I have a saying, ‘Simple job turned nightmare.’ I feel for you. There’s a lot of things I’d like to do to my car but I don’t trust anyone else and I’m sure I’d be back to your original question if I did it myself. Good luck.
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04-14-2020, 06:02 PM | #65 |
Drives: Black 2ss Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Illinois
Posts: 232
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I just checked the bearings and Clearances. I think this is the issue. This was only the number 1 bearing I have done.
I removed cap put a strip of green plastigage on the crank. Torqued according to specs. Removed cap and the plastigage wasn't even touched. Used the red plastigage to see what I get and the clearance with that came out to . 006. The crank journal has light scratches on it and the bearings are definitely bad. I can't figure out though by reading the bearings what it's telling me. Any ideas? I'm most likely going to be changing the rod bearings and going to check the cam bearings to see if they are damaged. I attached a couple pics. Last one is the plastigage after I installed the bearings and see that it wasn't even touched after torqued. Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk |
04-16-2020, 02:08 PM | #66 |
Drives: 2010 IBM SS/RS/Stick Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: The Holler
Posts: 231
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Kind f hard to say; Could be trash running through the engine. Be sure to check and plastigage all main bearings and rod bearings. Look for similarities or differences in wear patterns. Do you have a tune? How's the bearing crush, Do the bearings slide out of the saddle or pop out?
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04-16-2020, 05:12 PM | #67 |
old school chevy rodder
Drives: 2013 2SS/RS Manual,DM exhaust,CRT Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: Oregon
Posts: 5,587
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I would wonder ab out the plugs at the back of the block, I remember buying my block and paying extra for all the installed plugs and such on just a short block to make sure it was done right by real LS expert at custom engine supply/Sag performance. Otherwise lacking a plug in the back would have made the lack of pressure you describe. My bock runs like 70 up cold never when hot idling goes down to 30.. Good Luck. Your bearings look like you ran them a little dry no great scrapes so no big contamination...so new bearings and things done right and a good check by a real good engine guru with lots of LS experience and you might find the problem...…. was just one little thing....
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04-16-2020, 05:53 PM | #68 |
Drives: 2011 Camaro 2SS LS3 Whipple Join Date: May 2019
Location: Connecticut
Posts: 1,925
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Yea pretty sure they cut the crank and ordered regular sized bearings this engine was started twice on a fresh rebuild and shut down asap when the low oil pressure was seen. So he's got .009" clearance on the bearing when it would have been .004 with the right bearings. Crank slapped around hitting the bearings.
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04-16-2020, 09:35 PM | #69 |
Drives: Black 2ss Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Illinois
Posts: 232
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Greenhornet has been giving me a hand with some guidance. Which I really appreciate.
I removed the heads and pulled the cam tonight to check the cam bearings. They don't look awful but since I'm there I'm going to replace them for piece of mind. I pulled the #1 rod bearing and checked the clearance it was at about. 0019 which is with in specs from what I've found. The scratches on the bearing are only on the surface. I can't feel them when running my finger nail across them. I've checked the plugs and they are all there. The bearings are in place in the caps and not popping or sliding out and I haven't checked the bearing crush yet but will tomorrow. I feel the best about taking the crank to a shop to get looked to see if can be turned and throwing all new bearings in it. This is the Pic of the rod bearing. Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk |
04-16-2020, 09:38 PM | #70 |
Drives: Black 2ss Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Illinois
Posts: 232
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This is the other 4 main bearings. The #5 bearing is the worse one but the scratches aren't as deep as they look. In the pictures I know they look awful.
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