Project Cleaning the Clutter in Our Engine Bay

[blazzin1]

Originally Posted by Nathan Moreno

Blazzin, I just left a message for Brandon at Casper Electronics regarding the ABS harness. I will ask him when he calls. Those guys are awesome. This is what they do.

Thanks a lot Nathan!

[Moreno1]

Did a little work on the fuse box today. Also went to my local recycling place a bout a sheet of 16 gauge stainless to fabricate the bracket. Doing my part to stay green . Will work on it tomorrow.

Here are a few pics. Used the dremel to get rid of these three guys.









Next came my favorite part....sanding.







This time I got smart and used black primer.



And...... finally satin paint





Tomorrow ......... bracket fab, stay tuned.

[The Stig]

[FurySS]

Well Nathan I untaped my coil harness thinking I could easily achieve what you did below. Would I be correct in assuming that cannot be done without splicing wires lol (which I am avoiding doing)?



Also - here is a "sneek peak" at my new valve covers coming

[Moreno1]

Originally Posted by 2010 Indy Pace

Well Nathan I untaped my coil harness thinking I could easily achieve what you did below. Would I be correct in assuming that cannot be done without splicing wires lol (which I am avoiding doing)?



Also - here is a "sneek peak" at my new valve covers coming

Indy, no splicing, I repeat, no splicing involved! Go back to post # 65 and you'll see exactly how I did it. Remember to identify which connector goes to which cylinder. Use tape to to write down the corresponding #'s. Do a sketch on a note pad of the engine. Put the number you wrote on the connectors on each cylinder on your sketch. Take lots of pictures. DO NOT trust your memory. Again, each time you undo anything, before you undo it, identify it with a piece of tape. Now go at it, It's no big deal.

Oh, and I love your new valve covers. It's going to look bitchin!

[FurySS]

Originally Posted by Nathan Moreno

Indy, no splicing, I repeat, no splicing involved! Go back to post # 65 and you'll see exactly how I did it. Remember to identify which connector goes to which cylinder. Use tape to to write down the corresponding #'s. Do a sketch on a note pad of the engine. Put the number you wrote on the connectors on each cylinder on your sketch. Take lots of pictures. DO NOT trust your memory. Again, each time you undo anything, before you undo it, identify it with a piece of tape. Now go at it, It's no big deal.

Oh, and I love your new valve covers. It's going to look bitchin!

I do have the connectors labeled with the coils and cylinders. I untaped it and stared at it for awhile thinking I could just untwist things to work it out right. So you did not splice, but did you unpin the connectors and move them around?

Thanks! Those valve covers are why I am doing the coil relocation (I had to have them, and then have them repainted lol) My coil relocation brackets are coming from the eBay guy. I ordered extension harnesses from Caspers long enough to route around the back of the engine. I amresearching another option for custom wires, stay tuned!

[NEGXXIS]

Originally Posted by 572HP

Thanks guys, I'll check with Tracy about his pulleys. It just seems like he does away with the clutch for the L99. Do you guys run without the clutch on the L99 alternator now? Any idea why the L99 has a clutch and the LS3 doesn't?

no clutch anymore..everything works just fine..not even sure why the clutch thing was even there. It was the same way on that Mustang I did, Edelbrock included a "normal" pulley to replace the factory one with.

[572HP]

Originally Posted by EZ SPEED

no clutch anymore..everything works just fine..not even sure why the clutch thing was even there. It was the same way on that Mustang I did, Edelbrock included a "normal" pulley to replace the factory one with.

I have done a little research on this. From what I have read, the automatics have this due to the automatics having extra vibrations at idle. The "decoupler" has a torsion spring inside which dampens vibrations, and it is also a one-way clutch. This also has the added benefit of helping to keep the belt from slinging off on hard acceleration/deceleration, and lengthens the life of the tensioner. Since I am running with a supercharger, I need anything I can get to help that poor belt. It sounds like a good idea for me to keep the decoupler. I understand that I could run without it. A company that offers aftermarket decouplers is tendeco.com. I'm going to look into one of these. Maybe I can just buy a new decoupler.

They also call these generators and not alternators. This is due to the extra circuitry (as Nathan has already discovered) that outputs DC instead of AC. I had a difficult time finding information in the service repair manual. I was looking up "alternator", and everything was under "generator".

Sorry to bore everyone, but wanted to share what I learned. I have read about several manual transmission owners installing these as well. The only downside to these is that they have a typical lifespan of 40k-50k miles, and they are something else that can go wrong.

Here is a great video that explains the use:

Anyone with an automatic, simply clean and paint the generator WITHOUT removing the pulley!

[Synner]

Check these out. Very sexy, very very expensive.
http://www.billetspecialties.com/ite...381&sb=LS&pg=1
The site says for LS1 coils but I saw an add for 2010 camaro fitment in a magazine.

[ZooDad]

Over $1,000, no way...

Originally Posted by Synner

Check these out. Very sexy, very very expensive.
http://www.billetspecialties.com/ite...381&sb=LS&pg=1
The site says for LS1 coils but I saw an add for 2010 camaro fitment in a magazine.

[Synner]

Well I did say very very expensive...

[Moreno1]

Originally Posted by PAUL SS

Nathan, not to make more work for you, but I was looking for your battery cable relo page and had a hard time finding it (post 251). I think it's time for an index on post #1. This thread has become a monster.

Paul, I finally updated the OP with links for faster browsing. Thanks for the tip

Originally Posted by 2010 Indy Pace

I do have the connectors labeled with the coils and cylinders. I untaped it and stared at it for awhile thinking I could just untwist things to work it out right. So you did not splice, but did you unpin the connectors and move them around?

No un-pining either. Just undid the factory tape and rearranged and re-taped them.

Thanks! Those valve covers are why I am doing the coil relocation (I had to have them, and then have them repainted lol) My coil relocation brackets are coming from the eBay guy. I ordered extension harnesses from Caspers long enough to route around the back of the engine. I am researching another option for custom wires, stay tuned!

Before you do anything on the wires, I have a source that does Nascar wires, I was going to get custom wires done as I'm looking to relocate the coils to the wheel wells. I was waiting till I decided on what headers I was going to use. I'ss see about getting the contact info so I can post it tomorrow.

Originally Posted by 572HP

I have done a little research on this. From what I have read, the automatics have this due to the automatics having extra vibrations at idle. The "decoupler" has a torsion spring inside which dampens vibrations, and it is also a one-way clutch. This also has the added benefit of helping to keep the belt from slinging off on hard acceleration/deceleration, and lengthens the life of the tensioner. Since I am running with a supercharger, I need anything I can get to help that poor belt. It sounds like a good idea for me to keep the decoupler. I understand that I could run without it. A company that offers aftermarket decouplers is tendeco.com. I'm going to look into one of these. Maybe I can just buy a new decoupler.

They also call these generators and not alternators. This is due to the extra circuitry (as Nathan has already discovered) that outputs DC instead of AC. I had a difficult time finding information in the service repair manual. I was looking up "alternator", and everything was under "generator".

Sorry to bore everyone, but wanted to share what I learned. I have read about several manual transmission owners installing these as well. The only downside to these is that they have a typical lifespan of 40k-50k miles, and they are something else that can go wrong.

Here is a great video that explains the use:

Anyone with an automatic, simply clean and paint the generator WITHOUT removing the pulley!

572HP, it's funny how much we learn as we push towards our goals. There's a lot of stuff I've learned which I never had an interest in till I started working on this project. At some point, I will post all the do's and don'ts, tips and just interesting facts I've learned along the way. Thanks for sharing

Originally Posted by Synner

Check these out. Very sexy, very very expensive.
http://www.billetspecialties.com/ite...381&sb=LS&pg=1
The site says for LS1 coils but I saw an add for 2010 camaro fitment in a magazine.

I've seen them in the mags also, really nice piece. Would make for an easier way to hive the coils. Plus I like that they are high rises, gives more of a traditional small block look. When you think that god billet valve covers start at around $600 and the cost of relocating the coils, wires, bracket, etc..... it might be another option.


On a different note, didn't get much accomplished on my car this weekend. It rained both days. I did help mu brother with his car. We did lowering spring and a painted and installed a rear spoiler.

[NEGXXIS]

Originally Posted by 572HP

I have done a little research on this. From what I have read, the automatics have this due to the automatics having extra vibrations at idle. The "decoupler" has a torsion spring inside which dampens vibrations, and it is also a one-way clutch. This also has the added benefit of helping to keep the belt from slinging off on hard acceleration/deceleration, and lengthens the life of the tensioner.

Thanks for the info, i understand a bit better now. That Mustang I did was also an automatic, so that makes sense.
I did have a problem with belt tension a couple of times after all the pulley swapping so I went to an adjustable tensioner and no more problems for me.

Originally Posted by Synner

Check these out. Very sexy, very very expensive.
The site says for LS1 coils but I saw an add for 2010 camaro fitment in a magazine.

I am running Billet Speciaties Valve covers on my car. I think they were around $450 VERY NICE Covers!! I also used them on my 95 Z28 back in the day

[Kilo-9]

I was torn between the Billet Specialties and the Katech carbon fiber. I went with the Katech, but still second guess from time to time.