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Old 10-30-2012, 02:20 AM   #29
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Do you have any pics of the 427 as of now.
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Old 10-30-2012, 07:32 AM   #30
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The new "Showstopper" hood has significant clearance over a stock hood. The heat distortion temp (HDT) of our resin is fairly high and more than adequate for any temps in the US but we could build a hood for you with an even higher HDT

Here is a link to the "Showstopper" hood,

http://www.camaro5.com/forums/showth...=1#post5753659
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Old 10-30-2012, 08:10 AM   #31
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Originally Posted by Russell James View Post
Don't know why anyone would release heat at the back of the hood. That is where the HVAC inlet is. How hot would you like the interior of the car to get?

The old cowl inductions for street cars like a '70 Chevelle were to let air in the engine intake, but they still sealed off the back of the hood. Race cars open up the back of the cowl, but they have no HVAC inlet.

There is a reason the ZL1 has the hood opening up front, and the back is sealed.
Drove it in the summer, in 100+ degree heat w/o any problems and a 1000+ hp engine. And only on the hottest days do I even have to run the AC so I guess I am just lucky. Actually my stock 2012 corvette interior gets hotter than my Camaro does and it's hood is completely sealed.
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Old 10-30-2012, 09:22 AM   #32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Eric-MPD1.com View Post
The new "Showstopper" hood has significant clearance over a stock hood. The heat distortion temp (HDT) of our resin is fairly high and more than adequate for any temps in the US but we could build a hood for you with an even higher HDT

Here is a link to the "Showstopper" hood,

http://www.camaro5.com/forums/showth...=1#post5753659

Eric, will send you a PM
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Old 10-30-2012, 09:25 AM   #33
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Originally Posted by thebeast916 View Post
Don't look at the intake location as a Downfall for the procharger. Iats Are only 10-15 degrees above Ambient. Roots type blower can do that, but not under boost or even spinning the hell out of it like you will be.

I'd be putting an f1 or f2 procharger or vortech ysi before I'd go whipple.
I dont know what you know about Whipples, FYI the 4.0 has the ability to flow 2500CFM+ which is how much an F2 Procharger will flow, so I will actually be on the low side of the compressor efficiency while im on pump gas.
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Old 10-30-2012, 09:28 AM   #34
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That is an uneducated comment. No offense. But really. A centri through a front mount will have cooler IAT's than that whipple 4.0.
are you talking about inlet temps while cruising around or inlet temps at WOT? and do you have proof to backup your statement?

Im asking because ive owned almost everything, centri Z06, TT Z06, ZR1, TVS2300 427 truck, Whipple 2.9 camaro.

I also have all the options for me to choose from and I choose the 4.0
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Old 10-30-2012, 09:54 AM   #35
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Originally Posted by 2K11SS View Post
Drove it in the summer, in 100+ degree heat w/o any problems and a 1000+ hp engine. And only on the hottest days do I even have to run the AC so I guess I am just lucky. Actually my stock 2012 corvette interior gets hotter than my Camaro does and it's hood is completely sealed.
are you saying your driving in 100+ weather with no ac

No seriously, so when you're driving with the AC on, do you have any issues? I know what Russel's saying makes sense, I just dont know if it will have any real life issue with the intense summers we have.
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Old 10-30-2012, 10:11 AM   #36
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overlay of COPO hood and 327 with the 4.0 blower engine

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Old 10-30-2012, 10:47 AM   #37
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ayousef View Post
are you talking about inlet temps while cruising around or inlet temps at WOT? and do you have proof to backup your statement?

Im asking because ive owned almost everything, centri Z06, TT Z06, ZR1, TVS2300 427 truck, Whipple 2.9 camaro.

I also have all the options for me to choose from and I choose the 4.0
He may not have proof, but I do. I log IATs with my Aerforce Gauge, and I am constantly at 2-4 degrees above ambient with my Vortech.

Good for you for owning everything. If you are buying the 4.0 Whipple just to say you have it, then go ahead. If you want to do it the right way, there are much better options.
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Old 10-30-2012, 11:09 AM   #38
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Originally Posted by ayousef View Post
are you saying your driving in 100+ weather with no ac

No seriously, so when you're driving with the AC on, do you have any issues? I know what Russel's saying makes sense, I just dont know if it will have any real life issue with the intense summers we have.

The A/C will still cool it. Where you notice the extra heat is in vent mode with the A/C off such as on a cool day. With the hood sealed, you will be able to get cool ambient outside temp vent air. Take the rear seal off, and the vent air is quite warm when the vehicle is not moving. It will feel like the heat is on, instead of just cool outside air.

The easiest way to see the difference is on a stock Camaro, taking the rear hood seal on and off to compare. When you can A-B-A test the change, the added heat to the HVAC system is quite obvious in vent mode when sitting in traffic. In A/C mode you will still be cooling OK, but some like to use vent mode when it is cool out.
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Old 10-30-2012, 11:19 AM   #39
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get a dual chiller setup and u will be fine with the whipple 4.0..
iat will be lower then stock.
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Old 10-30-2012, 01:27 PM   #40
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ayousef View Post
are you saying your driving in 100+ weather with no ac

No seriously, so when you're driving with the AC on, do you have any issues? I know what Russel's saying makes sense, I just dont know if it will have any real life issue with the intense summers we have.
I live in Houston so humidity, not temp is the real issue (yes when you combine the two it sucks). Low humidity and 100 degrees, no problem, no AC. High humidity and 100 degrees, I turn on the AC.

First when you have a large, high hp supercharged engine heat will always be an issue. If I am sitting in stop and go for long periods of time, my temps will run up but they are still manageable (usually 225F max). Of course my engine holds about 11 quarts of oil and I have two oil coolers.

Unfortunately people make comments about things when they don't know the whole situation. That's why half the time I won't even post anything on here because someone will always make an uniformed comment.

A true old school (70's style) cowl hood would release heat low and into the vents, however the MPD1 hood is not the same. It seals at the back and the holes are high in the cowl, plus this cowl is significatly higher the any normal cowl so the air that escapes is way too high to be sucked into any vents. Unless of course you live somewhere that hot air sinks and cold air rises. If that's the case then this hood will not work for you.
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Old 10-30-2012, 03:40 PM   #41
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Well if you want to go oldschool you could always go bigger and cut a hole in the hood. Good luck with your build.
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Old 10-30-2012, 03:53 PM   #42
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Originally Posted by WheelmanSS View Post
He may not have proof, but I do. I log IATs with my Aerforce Gauge, and I am constantly at 2-4 degrees above ambient with my Vortech.

Good for you for owning everything. If you are buying the 4.0 Whipple just to say you have it, then go ahead. If you want to do it the right way, there are much better options.

so you're saying Whipple's are a bad way of making power? or would all Positive Displacement blowers be a really bad way of making power since Whipple's are the most efficient of the bunch?

Now when we talk about IAT's no one cares what your intake air temps are while cruising around, show us how they look like when you step on it.

Vortech's are awesome dont get me wrong, my vortech z06 was insanely quick. Centrifugals also work really good on higher compression motors, and especially stock motors because they boost by RPM, so you only see full boost at redline.

PD blowers put alot of stress on the engine but make an insane amount of low-end torque, and would probably be in full boost at around 3500rpms. 800rwtq does feel nice at 3000rpms.

Also, this is a no expense spared build, were using the biggest heatexchanger, high flowing intercooler pump, large intercooler fluid reservoir tank etc...
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