07-02-2009, 11:05 AM | #141 |
Red Brick of Vengeance!
Drives: 12 Second Brick Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: at my pulpit
Posts: 7,745
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Ok... haven't read the entire thread word for word... so I'm sorry if I missed it... But what gear did you do the pull in? I'm strapping the car down on Saturday to get some good base line numbers and was curious what gear you used????
My understanding is typically you do your pulls in the gear that is closest to 1:1... Looking at the automatic I'm thinking 4th gear at 1.16... but the speed at redline is like 158MPH! think that's actually ABOVE the speed limiter? So I think i would feel better doing the pull in 3rd but that's 1.55... which may not produce the best results..... OK.. but now something just clicked... Just had a light bulb... Car goes through the traps in 3rd... so do the pull in 3rd... who cares what the numbers are as long as I'm consistent with my pulls, so I can show improvements!!! Ok... that's solved.. Other is a comment... After doing some research and talking with a few very experienced tuners.... it seems we need to change our way of thinking about A/F... apparently while you and I might think the car is pig rich at 11.6, in fact the A/F is really correct and is there by design! I brought up the fact that I thought the 11 AF was crazy fat and he explained that every time they've tried to lean things out a bit the cars end up pinging..... my other engineer friend explained that to get the high CR, you need to run the car a lot richer at WOT... hence the 11.6.... this is just what I'm finding in my "research" Looking forward to Saturdays dyno session... will post up results!
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07-03-2009, 07:54 AM | #142 | |
Turbo kit Jedi
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Quote:
Well sorta. IN only a few operating conditions does it use statified lean combustion. When you put you pedal to the metal,The DI system will still inject fuel during the intake event to promote a homgenous charge. The benefit of the DI is the very fine droplet size + spray that is directly in the chamber consumes many BTU's durign vaporization. THis is what allows high static CR and also a great deal of boost. In the LNF camp we experiance a propagtion phenomenon when we start moving past 40lbs/min and most importantly 5800rpm. THis is when the window to inject during the intake stroke becomes too small. The system, which is shooting for a specific AFR, is then injecting on the compression stroke. This wets the walls and piston crown with fuel, you see a large 25%+ drop in torque and the exhuast looks like a duramax. |
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07-03-2009, 07:59 AM | #143 |
Turbo kit Jedi
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Just as a FYI, the LNF engines run at around .86lamda from the factory under 20+ psi.
That's around 12.6 afr. When they are below 3500rpm they are programmed to run about 13.1-1 afr. Factory. I assume the rich afr on the V6 is to cover their arse on the 87 octane. |
10-07-2009, 05:31 PM | #144 |
Drives: 2010 Camaro 2LT Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Michigan
Posts: 6
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What can I do myself that is cheap and will increase my hp?
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10-07-2009, 05:56 PM | #145 |
Drives: 1LT Cruze Summit White Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Bedford
Posts: 708
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10-07-2009, 06:38 PM | #146 | |
Red Brick of Vengeance!
Drives: 12 Second Brick Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: at my pulpit
Posts: 7,745
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Quote:
http://www.camaro5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=43367
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